There are over a hundred national parks in India, and Madhya Pradesh proudly hosts twelve of them, a true testament to the state’s rich biodiversity. Yet what really sets MP apart is the way it fuses culture with wilderness. Festivals are celebrated right in the heart of nature, timed perfectly with the best seasons, inviting travellers from across India and abroad. Among these many jewels, one that has recently captured worldwide attention is Kuno National Park. It became a global headline in September 2022, when Prime Minister Narendra Modi released wild cheetahs, flown in from Namibia under Project Cheetah, into its carefully prepared terrain. For the first time in 70 years, the fastest land animal was back on Indian soil. With the world’s eyes on Kuno, I too couldn’t resist planning a visit to this marvel.
My journey began not with the roar of a predator but with the rhythmic clatter of train wheels. I boarded a train to Gwalior, a city steeped in history and heritage. Train journeys, for me, are never just about getting from one place to another, they are windows into everyday India. With these little joys fuelling my excitement, I reached Gwalior, ready for the road trip that lay ahead. From Gwalior, I hired a car and set out towards Kuno. The drive was nothing short of cinematic-rolling greenery. Every few kilometres, life spilled onto the road: Children waved with carefree cheer, women in vibrant saris balanced pots of water with graceful ease, and farmers returned from their fields with earthy smiles.
While the driver tinkered with wires and bolts, I wandered off to stretch my legs. The pause turned into a blessing: I found myself surrounded by the quiet symphony of rustling leaves, bird calls, and the earthy scent of the forest. It was as if nature itself had paused to welcome me. By the time we resumed and finally arrived at the Kuno Forest Retreat, evening had set in. Birds were returning to their nests, the air was cool and crisp, and the trees seemed to sway in their own music. I felt the forest opening its arms for me. I was fortunate to arrive during the Kuno Forest Festival, which meant I could stay in the luxurious tents set up by Evoke Experiences. That first night is etched in my memory. The forest fell silent, but it wasn’t an empty silence, it was alive.
Above me stretched a sky overflowing with stars, so clear and bright that it felt like the universe had descended to watch over us. Wrapped in that starlit embrace, I drifted into the most peaceful sleep I’ve had in years. At dawn, a gentle knock on my tent and steaming cups of tea stirred me awake. Soon after, I climbed into open jeeps and drove into Kuno National Park with my co-travellers. Spread across 404 sq. km in the Sheopur district, the park is a jewel of the Vindhyan hills, named after the Kuno River that threads its way through the forest. Mist hovered over the trees, curling like smoke in the morning light. A spotted deer leapt across our path, its coat glowing golden under the rising sun. Parakeets flashed turquoise, woodpeckers drummed on ancient trunks, and high above, a hawk traced lazy circles. The guide reminded us that Kuno was now home to the cheetahs, though sightings were rare-the “shy cats”, as he called them, preferred their privacy. I wasn’t disappointed. The excitement of simply being in their territory, where these animals had returned after decades of extinction, was magical. Every rustle in the bushes felt like a possibility, a heartbeat of hope.
Even without spotting the cheetahs, the safari was a gift. Sambar, chinkara, jackals, foxes, and over 120 bird species kept us engaged, while the guide’s tales of Kuno’s history, ancient forts, and the legendary river added wonder. The next day, I explored Devkund Waterfall and Dev Kho, greeted by mischievous langurs along the way. Trekking down winding paths, I stood before cascades tumbling into a lush pool, as the sunset painted the sky in pink, orange, and red — a moment I wished to bottle and carry home.
Travel Notes
Best Time to Visit: October to March, when the weather is crisp, skies are clear, and safaris are rewarding.
Getting There: Gwalior is the nearest railway hub, about 3.5 hours from Kuno by road. The drive itself is part of the adventure.
Where to Stay?
If you’re planning to visit Kuno, you might want to consider staying at the Kuno Jungle Resort, which offers comfortable accommodation and a range of amenities amidst the lush surroundings of the sanctuary. If you plan during a festival, these tents are the best option. Check the latest updates on the official website of the MP Government for more details and bookings: www.kunonationalpark.org
Beyond the Retreat: Nearby Gems
Palpur Garhi Fort: Rising within the park, this ancient fort whispers tales of valour and lost dynasties, its ramparts now shared by birds and winds.
Ater Fort: A short drive away, this fort watches over the Chambal River, offering breathtaking views and stories etched in stone.
- The author is a travel writer and a columnist with a focus on culture, heritage, and nature