A few Indian designers are moving away from bridal wear and redefining couture to cater to international buyers. Karan Bhardwaj reports
For some years designer Manish Arora showcased his couture collection only on the international runways, where the fashion houses and paparazzi went crazy about the designer who introduced Indian couture in a new way to the Western world. While most Indian couturiers created bridal wear in the name of couture, Manish stood out with his bold ensembles. Manish made a comeback two years ago with Delhi Couture Week (DCW) and has been participating in the same. And now the designer is not the only one who’s not showcasinglehengas and saris in the name of couture, there are others, too.
While earlier there was no clear distinction between couture and bridal wear in India, thanks to DCW and the growing buzz about this niche genre of fashion that the designers have started to segregate couture from wedding wear. Designers like Manish Arora, Falguni and Shane, Pankaj and Nidhi, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla have generated a massive fan following globally which has revised international interest in Indian fashion. While most Indian designers focus on a burgeoning market at home, where a rapidly growing middle class is consuming high fashion like never before, a significant number is expanding abroad. “Buyers from Japan, Arab countries are growing by leaps and bounds,” says designer Kavita Bhartia.
The reason behind Indian couture gaining global attention is possibly the refreshing take on the subject by the designers.
Redefining couture
Global fashion icons sporting Indian designs is nothing new. But while earlier they opted for a Ritu Kumar or Tarun Tahiliani dress for its embroidery, now they are going for Indian designs even for their cuts. Recent example is Shakira picking up Shane and Falguni dress for its structure and concept.
In the last five years, we have begun to see more ‘contemporary’ designs rather than the ones carrying the traditional baggage. “Couture is gradually redefining itself from being overtly traditional to being modern and experimental. We are using Indian elements and fusing them with global pallette and vice versa,” observes Shantanu from Shantanu-Nikhil.
The roots of this change lies in the fundamentals of young India, which is no more dictated by the norms and traditions. “The mindset of Indian youth has changed. We are looking at India which is well-travelled, exposed and becoming personal,” says Shantanu. India has always been an exotic country when it comes to design. We have the luxury of rich heritage of art, craft and architecture. Most designers are fusing that heritage with a global palette.
The new inspiration
Indian designs were always loved for their colours but now they are also making the mark for their themes. Designers are using global architecture as theme of their designs and that’s getting them more overseas clients. “We have started to use architectural stories and philosophies of the world to our advantage. We polish it with what we are good at, that is, silhouettes. Architecture has global appeal and if you fuse it with our sensibilities, you have global handwriting,” says Shantanu. A lot of couturiers are using couture as a canvas for storytelling, which is extremely important in the global world.
Global appeal
Vineet Bahl, whose overseas clients account for 90 per cent of his sales, says, “Four years ago, you had to hunt them (buyers) but now they hunt you.”
Nirupama Singh, a fashion trend analyst, says Indian designers were in demand in the Middle East because the two regions shared a cultural affinity. “Earlier for some Westerners Indian embroidery and embellishment was over-the-top, but it always appealed to eastern sensibilities. Also, the amount of skin they reveal and the drapings...you don’t need a perfect body, which increases the number of clients you can cater to,” Singh said.
The demand and desire of Indian couture in overseas market is increasing. “We are facing an interesting phase. It’s fun and challenging times that there’s lot of experimentation happening. The growth is increasing at an average of 25 per cent every year in India. Internationally, the high end boutiques and retail chains are housing Indian couture. There is a great demand for Manish Arora, Shane and Falguni and Pankaj and Nidhi in places like london, New York and Dubai. Their garments are fairly priced and sometimes exponentially high,” says Alka Nishar of Aza.
Watch your steps
last time she walked on ramp, she ‘disappointed’ her fans and the fashion clan after faltering all her way. This time too, Kangana Ranaut tripped a little while sashaying down in a heavily embroidered lehenga as the showstopper for designer Anju Modi. However, the ‘Queen’ quelled all sighs and was well-prepared to defend. “I was away in New York for a filmmaking course. It was like going back to school and learning with students. This is my first public outing after I returned. So I took it in a very easy way but it was not. I couldn’t believe I came back here. I found this limelight and paparazzi intimidating. I am adjusting with it,” she said. The actor praised the designer for her Indian outfits and said, “Anju is creating a revolution in Bollywood with her designs. We are becoming a lot westernised. It’s great to go back to our roots and promote Indian elements in fashion.”
Kangana will be seen in the sequel of Tanu Weds Manu and she will also feature opposite Irrfan Khan in a French production.