Designers Suneet Varma, Siddhartha Tyltler and Joy Mitra gave a glimpse of their couture collections for the second edition of the Splendid Indian Closet tour. By Samiksha Raj
It was an evening packed with fashion glitterati, a cameo of glitz and glamour and the luxury that Indian haute couture boasts of. Embellished clothes, fancy jewellery and a whole lot of grandeur was the highlight of the event. As the second edition of the Splendid Indian Closet (SIC) kicked off at the Taj Mansingh, a coterie of renowned Indian designers showcased collections that were revelations in the sphere of bridal couture. Names like Suneet Varma, Joy Mitra and Siddhartha Tytler were among many other participants. It was an awe-inspiring moment for the Indian fashion industry to take their opulent designs to the runways across the United States. “We recognised the need for Indian haute couture in the US. India is a fashion trove with its art, heritage and designs. We want to give exposure to Indian talent in the West,” explained Sapna M Vats, co-founder, Splendid Indian Closet (SIC).
Designer Suneet Varma unveiled a spectacular ensemble aimed at the NY bride. “The collection targets the Indo-American bride who is modern and stylish. She wants to look beautiful on her D-day but opposes the traditional way and hence, doesn’t want to be all decked up,” quipped Varma, stating that his outfits are not at all over-the-top heavy. Varma’s signature garment from the collection — in splendid fuchsia and gold exuded strong design sensibility and meticulous craftsmanship which the couturier is known for. His collection for SIC 2014 comprises lehengas and cholis, corsets and skirts, men’s sherwanis and kurta-pyjamas in fabrics ranging from silk tanchoi to dyed organza and nets (for the dupattas). The designer has an eclectic taste when it comes to colours for the bridal wear. Taking a potshot at the traditional ‘reds’ when it comes to wedding attire, he is presenting a palette of corals, carrot colour and bright girly shades in his collection. A noticeable element in his outfits is the badla-mukaish work – a step towards reviving the age-old embroidery technique.
Designer Joy Mitra who took the first edition of SIC by storm with his Rituparno Ghosh-inspired Chokher Bali collection, is still working for this year’s entry. He asserted that the designs have to be quite different this year and that he is reading a lot of books and visiting museums to draw inspiration for his creations. “I try to replicate and take forward the designs and motifs that were used at the time of rajas and maharajas,” said Mitra. He plans to play with colours, create a lot of textures and use traditional motifs for his ensembles to be showcased overseas. Black and darker shades which otherwise would have been considered inauspicious in the Indian wedding scenario has been the muse of designer Siddhartha Tytler. The designer feels the neo-age brides and grooms have become experimental and welcome innovation in terms of silhouettes and colours in their wedding outfits. The designer’s signature ensemble — a gold-black brocade Victorian top with 30 panels teamed with a black skirt grabbed many eyeballs and definitely set him apart from other participating couturiers. A ‘fusion’ take on the bridal couture — lehengas paired with capes, saris with pants; Siddhartha’s collection is a mix and match of outfits and colours, with periwinkle, maroon, jewel tones, peach and ivory as the prominent tones. “My creations have a lot of volume and corsetry and I’ve used double georgette, net and some velvet in the entire collection. Techniques like laser and pastel cutwork have been used and 50 per cent of the collection doesn’t have bling,” shared the designer, describing his haute couture line for SIC.