A collection of tussar silhouettes at Amazon India Fashion Week will flaunt the rich tradition of Indian textiles. By Ankita Jain
Tussar silk is the flavour of the season — that’s why craftsmen are having a field day and taking this whisper to a roar is the Fashion Design Council of India’s (FDCI) collaboration with Jharcraft. Jharkhand will be a ‘partner State’ for the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2017. Jharcraft is setting an example by creating new opportunities and making it profitable for weavers, giving them a definitive source of employment, while making the best use of available resources. The soul of Jharkhand lies in its handloom legacy and the highlight of the show will be designer interpretations of the fabric de rigueur —tussar.
These silks come in designs that combine traditional motifs and patterns with contemporary abstract prints and folk art. From bold geometric designs to pale paisley prints, designer Shaina NC will open the show with a number of saris for every occasion and mood. A total of four designers will showcase their interpretations.
Divya Bindra Kapoor and Ambika Jain , who own the label Dabiri, have crafted traditional embroidery, chikankari, zardari and gota patti work on mulberry silk that lets your skin breathe out in the splendour of beautifully curetted needle work. Their collection comprises modern silhouettes like boxy crop tops, capes, lehenga, anarkalis, long skirts and so on.
For designer Shruti Sancheti, handloom clusters from the remotest tribal belt of Jharkhand inspired her to redefine muted glamour of modern India.
“luminous looms like tussar, mulberry silk, eri silk and spun cotton in a decadent palette of sand, ecru, mulberry purple, onyx, charcoal, burgundy, mahogany and teal are crafted to create easy separates for the festive season. Each look is a layered symphony of opaque and sheer,” she said.
The surface ornamentation of her collection is nomadic and tribal in character with heavy emphasis on kantha stitch. “Authentic geo-ethnic patterns are further embroidered with shaded woollen threads to narrate the poetic grace of the unadulterated design aesthetic of this region.”
Shruti’s silhouettes are an amalgamation of traditions and trends. Trench coats, boxy crop tops, layered dhoti trousers, jumpsuit with trail skirt, capes, peplum jackets, long skirts, pleated pants, etc. are an integral part of the collection. The look is modern and layered yet tribal and nomadic. The soul of the collection is totally Indian but the styling is extremely contemporary.