Craft revivalist Madhu Jain spoke to Unnati Joshi about the innovation of combining ikat traditions of India and Thailand
The 2,000-plus years that Indian handlooms have been in existence are enough to make them unique. Crafted by hand, these textiles are eco-friendly and are made by those whose skills have been passed on to them through generations. Handlooms are wonderful for Indian climes. Natural fibres breathe well, keeping the wearer comfortable, and many handloom textiles offer UV protection as well, such as those that have bamboo fibres,” said revivalist designer Madhu Jain, who has been tirelessly crusading for our dying textiles much much before any hashtag campaign.
Madhu Jain is a complete desi, not only at heart but also in her craft. Famous for her contribution in renewing ikat, kalamkari, kantha and dhaka muslin, she recently completed 29 years in the industry.
Growing up in Old Delhi, she imbibed its hues, architecture and atmosphere. “It taught me to respect India’s traditional arts and crafts that were thriving in the gullies. Even when I moved to South Delhi, I carried a large part of that ethos with me. It is not surprising that I stand forswadeshi and experiment within that bouquet. Right from my first collection 30 years ago, when I combined the Baluchari weave from Bishnupur in Bengal with theKalakshetra weave of Tamil Nadu, I have been innovating to produce new weaves,” said the craft revivalist.
This time she has married ikat motifs of both India and Thailand. “As a textile conservationist, I have skillfully combined a variety of traditional motifs from both countries but woven fabric in India to head-turning effect. I’ve used the Thai weft style of Matmi or Mudmee, worn traditionally by Thai nobility, as the main weave of saris, while the pallus are typically Indian, and inspired by the delicate pietra dura inlay work found in the iconic Taj Mahal. The result: A must-have irresistible museum-worthy collection.”
looking back at her journey so far, she sighed and said, “When I started out, there were no design institutes or schools to guide us. If memory serves me well, I think there was just one polytechnic. We had to teach ourselves. In hindsight, I think it was a boon in disguise as we were not spoon-fed cookie-cutter approaches to fashion, and were free to create our own personal style. There is no better teacher than experience. And, experience in the field, is unmatchable. When I got into fashion, the whole world was doing zardosi or other over-the-top embellishments. These were the staples. I really couldn’t relate to any of that and decided to use textile art as a form of surface ornamentation, where the weave itself is king.”
Although thankful that a few designers are keeping the country’s art and craft alive through their designs, Jain feels that there is still a huge need to create more awareness about it. “If one is working with handlooms, then the need for awareness is intrinsic. Much depends on what materials the designer is working with, natural textiles or factory-produced fabrics. It’s a personal choice and mindset. Ten years ago no one wanted to touch handlooms. There were times when we made entire collections and there were hardly a handful of takers. Those who really appreciated handlooms were a minority. The current handloom wave is a result of years of clinging on to what you believe in, your values and principles.”
“I am utterly grateful that the time is finally ripe for a handlooms re-awakening. And the pro-handloom campaign is a step in the right direction. My work in this sector can only be further recognised and appreciated through handloom promotion,” she added.
About the challenges in designing the traditional textile, Madhu said, “The most significant challenge is the dwindling interest in weaving and the erosion of skills of weavers. With not enough market linkages, artisans are migrating in search of other work, and the family trade is not being passed on to the next generation. My attempt thus has always been to work with weavers in upgrading skills and in providing design interventions that add to their proficiency.”
Jain has dressed celebrities like Maneka Gandhi, Nita Ambani, Waheeda Rehman, Juhi Chawla to name a few.
“Buy handloom! By doing so, you will ensure the livelihood of an industry that has huge potential in India, and which is currently second only to the agriculture sector,” she advised, signing off.