Florals ruled as ikats followed along withbandhani and other pixelated graphic prints on flowy fabrics at AIFW 2016. Designers got creative by using banana paper for garments and bags while others flirted with new silhouettes
We decode the prints, patterns and embroideries that reigned in most of the spring summer collections at the AIFW 2016.
FlOWER POWER
As hard as we may have looked for the trending motifs, we could not go beyond the flower. Some designers played with them while some dedicated their entire line to them — but there was no denying the power of the flower.
Designer Payal Pratap, in her collection titled Vintage Rose, played with vibrant florals, stripes and polka dots on pleated skirts jumpsuits and structured dresses — reminiscent of 50s British era. Known for cross-stich embroideries, the prints were in full bloom, even on hand clutches.
Ragini Ahuja, on the other hand, with her brand Ikai (which she owns) brought in oversized lounge wear adorned with geometric chintz florals, appliqued in demin and suede.
Designer duo Hemant and Nandita’s collection You Can’t Catch a Wild Flower showcased the fashion of the 60s — an era of lovers. Big floral motifs in acid colours, on loose fit pantsuits, jumpsuits and butter nup skirts with large utility pockets
STITCHED IN TIME
Samanth Chauhans collection, Kinnaur Queen Collection, was a true amalgamation of eastern and western aesthetics and bringing together both the genres. A havy Middle Eastern influence was noticed with the jewellery and the amount of bling which had been balanced by the solid ivory. They had a floor length gown with lots of layers and a combination of silhouettes, the torso was fitted and end at the midriff, heavily embroidered this the sequins and the embroidery forms its surface, Indianised Mandarin collar which is an extension of the bodice more predominantly a Maharaja collar, cap sleeves and a subtle bouffant skirt with three visible layers, the innermost layer almost peeking out is a more structured material to form the skeleton and provide support, thus is heavy handloom fabric atop it is a heavy layering of silk/net and on top of that is a much shorter adornment lauer which ends at the knee line made of smooth and heavy linen which provides a very structured fall and looks like an exaggerated peplum, emboidery of thread vexed the surface, colors in play are mostly gold, ivory, cream, and spray of bright colors such as green, blue and pink in embroidery.
fabric galore
Who new you could also get creative with cotton pulp and banana paper for the garments. Twenty-five-year-old Shreya Oza did just that by creating an off-white cut-sleeved top and hand clutches.
Aneeth Arora, who threw a Pajama Party a night ago, used hand-woven khadi, stamped and hand-embroidered mulmuls, linens from West Bengal, sheer cottons from Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh.
Threads of regality
Ashish and Vikrant modern-day bride looked flawless in a circular zari embroidered. The colours in play are bush pink, pale pink, midnight blue, gold and bright pink. Simple circular gathered lehenga skirt with a silk cotton printed blouse has a boat neck, elbow down sleeves with gold gota patti cuffs embracing a delicate line of embroidery in gold atop. The satin silk skirt with light spray of thread embroidery sewn with gold and bright pink forming twigs and flowers from the hem to the knee line, has been finished with a thick gota patti/lame border. Matha patti is thread embroidered in the hem and the dupatta is a created using simple net with floral gota patti/lame border
IKAT RUlES!
It was ikat all the way in The Meraki Project by Sonali Pamnani. A full centre front open long fluid jacket, where the upper torso till the under bust iskhaddar and checkered, Mandarin collar and a collar button. The rest of the flow is constituted ofikat cotton.Mid calf length.The boxy line dress is made of printed malmal cotton, the front open and closure has a silver zipper which is further adorned by buttons. The loose long sleeves with string epaulettes hold up till the elbow.
with inputs from agencies