Chef Shambhu and Meena Teli are experts of Konkan cuisine. Eram Agha met them at The Pavilion, ITC Maurya, and learnt about the lesser-known usals and breads from the region
Our Western coast boasts of three kinds of Konkan cuisine — Konkan extending from Raigad to Mangalore, Malvani starting from Sindhudurg and Gomantak or Goan cuisine. The Pavilion, ITC Maurya is celebrating the food of the quaint little town — Malvan, and is brining to the food lovers the best preparations from the region.
The interesting part of my visit to this festival, ‘A soul-stirring spread from the Konkan Malvan’, was to see, how a culture makes a delicacy out of humble numbers like bitter gourd, brinjal and pumpkin! Chef from Maharashtra, Shambhu Teli said, “People from the Konkan region are not very rich, so they enhance their lives by cooking a hearty and delicious meal no matter what it is, fish or vegetables, everything is prepared as if for a festival.” The culture that celebrates life through culinary talents, and makes an occasion out of daily cooking is certainly not poor; it is blessed with the joy of living! My first pick from the steaming hot array of offerings was Aluvadi, which was made of colocasia leaves, something that is not so popularly used in the North. It grows best in water and during the rains. The method of preparation has been tweaked (leaves are not fried) to match the preferences of urban gourmand. Made with gramflour and coriander these rolls are great starters. The hot crispy prawns are a must try over a nice tangy mocktail.
The fun of main course can be doubled if the pairings are done well — the combination of prawn curry with wada, made of mixed flour, was divine. The fried wadas can be eaten without accompaniment; small fried bread is a tasty meal in itself. Komdirassa (chicken) made of coconut and kokum tastes perfect with amboli, bread made of riceflour, turmeric, urad dal and some methi. The ingredients have been brought from the Konkan region. Chillies used in preparing the chicken curry are a region’s speciality and lend the curry the distinct flavour and spice. Without its use the dish wouldn’t taste as delicious. There is Bombay duck, bangda fish, prawns and pomfret brought from Maharashtra.
Don’t leave without tasting vegetarian offerings — channa usal, made of channa, it tastes heavenly with breads. The usals are of different varieties like kaju usal made of cashew nuts and valachi usal made of pulses. There was pomfret made in coconut, truly coastal in flavour, it went well with rice.
Just when I thought of ending this treat, Chef Teli walked up with a platter of sorts!
There were breads of different kinds, and they are quite popular in the Malvan belt. When I tasted the assortment of breads, I joined the ‘breadwagon’ of admirers.
There was a sweet bread basket that was not over-the-top with sugar content. Gud and til puri, karanji puffed puri, made of coconut and rava are healthy snacking options. After these trials I
wasn’t sure of desserts, but puranpoli, made of jaggery, lentil bread was too luscious to be missed.