Stitch from scratch

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Designer Ritu Kumar uses the old, waste fabrics and traditional embroidery to create modern silhouettes

A look at the resort wear with the beaded neckline or at the cover all of the bikini will hardly reveal that it has been created out of an old fabric or that the bead work is inspired by the work that we see from the Kutch region in Gujarat. Designer Ritu Kumar has set her mark with the collection that she either creates from the worn out or waste fabric or she uses our ancient techniques and embroidery in the making of the garments. “When you travel to the interiors of India you will notice that we have a rich legacy and our ancient embroidery and techniques used on the garments are so impressive that we do not need to look at any other source for design inspirations. But the problem that the poor weavers and the artisans face is that their work is often discarded on the basis of quality or people think that it’s too simple to be worn. So I decided to change the look of the garments and use the embroidery and the techniques to create designs that can be worn anywhere across the globe,” informed Kumar, who started her manufacturing and retail work in Mumbai over 12 years ago and has recently opened the store in Delhi. “The designs have always been widely popular, not only among the Indians but also foreigners who love to take along with them something that represents India. Women all over the world love to wear designs that are as per the fashion trends and have something unique,” added Kumar, whose brand O layla is known for its resort wear, western wear and wedding collections.

She shares that the Bengali cotton sari makes for an interesting cover all for a beach wear. “You can play with the borders as well. The old fabric was basically hand-spun and was of good quality,” said Kumar.

The designer has created fleece line brocade jackets, kalamkari kaftan and chiffon dresses that highlight the traditional techniques. “If you will notice, the silhouettes are as per the demands of the modern working women, who would love the brocade work but cannot wear the brocade sari always. So it is better to give her something that she would love to wear. Giving a global platform to our techniques and age-old craft was one of the motives. The weavers and craftsmen work hard to create a single piece which is rarely picked up. So it is better to create what is salebale,” she said.

Daily Pioneer
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