Chef Ashis Raut believes Bhubaneswar and Kolkata have the best street food and you can relish a meal at Rs10. Neeti Nigam sampled delicacies he created, drawing from his childhood experiences
You will meet chefs who will share with great pride their experiences in New York cafes and will tell you about sampling exotic delicacies at not-so-heard-of place in some corner of the world. Say street food and mostly you will hear tales of the cart sellers’ delicacies in Bangkok and Singapore. So it was quite surprising to find chef Ashis Raut reminiscing a meal that came in just Rs10. He might have global stories to share, but he chose to talk about the streets of Kolkata and Odisha — two places he is closely associated with, thanks to the local delicacies and the time he spent there. He has his reasons for talking about the places. “I belong to Odisha and have studied in Kolkata for couple of years. I believe the quality of food served on the streets is par excellence. From the best of Pakistani cuisine to new generation’s favourite momos and thupkas, Kolkata is foodie’s paradise. I had maach-bhaat for just Rs10. Where on earth do you get scrumptious delicacies at an economical rateIJ” wondered Rout.
His love and connect with the food of the two places made him conceptualise a food festival — United flavours of India at Courtyard by Marriott, Gurgaon. It was designed keeping Independence Day in mind. “I believe food is a common thread that binds our nation. Every state has its own local dishes. Since I have stayed in Hyderabad, Mumbai and Delhi, I have drawn alot from my memories of eating out at these places,” he shared.
The menu showed chef’s rich knowledge on local food. Through Hyderabadi nizam cuisine, soul food of Kerala, Rout has tried to capture bits from different regions. He handed us jhal chivara (puffed rice hand tossed with mustard oil) in a traditional newspaper wrap with Kerala’s coconut and subza sherbet (lemon flavoured tender coconut and soaked basil seed drink). From his favourite states, he offered vegetable chop (a kebab like dish of beetroot), cholia paratha and chicken kebab (saffron flavoured paratha with charcoal grill cooked chicken kebab) inspired from the one that is served at famous eatery near Jamuna cinema hall of Kolkata. And jhal piyazi chat made with dahiwada, curry soaked pakoda and white mutter as served at Zilla school square in Puri.
Somehow the Hyderbadi platter failed to surprise us. The menu has all popular delicacies that a food lovers are familiar with. “The dishes might be popular but some delicacies like haleem of old Delhi is different from haleem of Hyderabad. The former is lamb’s paste while in latter, you can identify meat’s fiber. Though haleem, a slow cooked lamb dish laced with fried onion, mint et al, was aromatic but it’s soya version was bland. Katthal ki biryani again didn’t tickle our tongue. Desi murg dum (a curd-based chicken dish) was succulent and tasted well. So was dakshini saag (roasted garlic flavoured scrambled spinach and tender corn), which was tender and tangy. In desserts, khubani kha meeta was a respite.
We expected him to score better in Kerala’s dishes. He suggested pineapple and coconut curry and ghee annam. To suit our palate, he replaced coconut milk with refined oil. Since it is monsoon, he avoided using fish and only kept one dish Malabar fish curry in the menu. “People often ask whether to eat heavy food like biryani, during monsoon. I tell them that food does not depend on weather but on your vata,” said Rout.
Kebabs from Kolkata
Know where to eat when you are in Kolkata
Dacre Street: Also known as the Decker’s lane, this is one of the most famous street food places in Kolkata. From China to Punjab, the food map here charts all delicacies.
AJC Bose Road: If in the mood for some juicy kathi rolls, head to AJC Bose road for fulfilment. Walk to Gorky Sadan and see things being prepared just across the road.
Bhubaneswarbites
In case you are planning a visit to the city, make sure you don’t miss out eating at these joints
Kailash Pav Bhaji: In Bhubaneswar, this is by far the most famous street food joint. Amongst the plethora of food options that the area provides, this is definitely a hit amongst the young and old alike. It is pocket-friendly and easily affordable by students.
Akhila Chat: Near Puja Mandap Saheed Nagar, this place gives the best chat in the locality.
Besides Market Building petrol pump some of the best golgappas can be found in front of lal Chand Jeweller’s master canteen. It sure is next most crowded thing in town after Kailash.