India Couture Week has begun. GANITA and UNNATI JOSHI give you a quick peek of what’s in store
The five-day fashion fiesta, which will be a spectacle of ebullient ensembles, grand sets and rivetting concepts as well as off-site shows, by leading designers, has started. Manish Malhotra, as the opening designer for the India Couture Week 2016 showcased his bedazzling creations yesterday at the Taj Palace Hotel, New Delhi. The Persian Story by Manish Malhotra was opened by suave and dapper Fawad Khan and the scintillating Deepika Padukone closed the fashion show, making it a star-spangled night to remember. Two industry stalwarts Tarun Tahiliani and Anita Dongre will showcase their distinctive collections at the same venue.
It will be the first time for Dongre and Tahiliani (since the event shifted to Delhi) to participate at India Couture Week runway. They are gearing up to dazzle the catwalk with surreal ensembles on Day 2 of ICW 2016. Tarun Tahiliani has always courted elegance without losing touch with traditional drapes, while Anita is known for her vivacious colours and embroideries. “This year our bridal couture will showcase some beautiful chintz-inspired prints onlehengas teamed with bohemian blouses. The collection moves on to jewelled tone solids in reinvented lehenga-choli silhouettes”, said Anita Dongre. She also suggested some dos and don’ts for the season, “Pick styles that allow your persona to shine through and wear them with panache. Don't overdo the heavily embroidered look that weighs you down. It is important for brides to enjoy their most important day.”
Out of the stalwarts who will unfurl their designs at ICW are Reynu Taandon, Rimple and Harpreet Narula, Rahul Mishra, Anamika Khanna, Varun Bahl, Gaurav Gupta, Manav Gangwani and Rohit Bal.
Rajasthani heritage will be showcased by Anita Dongre and Reynu Taandon. “I will be showcasing Kamangari. It is actually inspired by Rajasthani culture. The best meaning of the term is the young and beautiful bride; the girls are very beautiful in Rajasthan, as hot as they are fire. They are called kamangari. My collection shows more of Rajasthan ethnic heritage. But I have given a little twist to contemporary.” said Reynu Taandon explaining her collection. Anita told us that her collection Epic love is inspired by Mughal Gardens of Rajasthan.
We questioned Rimple and Harpreet Narula about the difference between Indian couture and western couture to which they responded, “Western couture is a 220-year-old industry while the Indian couture industry is a fledgling in comparison. Also there is a marked difference culturally as to how we view couture. In India couture is predominately associated with bridals and weddings and this is what makes the India Couture Week different from its western counterparts. It is the biggest showcase of the year with the best of Indian bridal couture on display.” When the same question was asked to Anita Dongre, she said, “In India, couture is all about bridal wear. Weddings are the only time people buy beautiful couture. It is a great time for designer to put the most lavish collection together.”
When we asked Gaurav Gupta about the theme he will showcase at ICW and his inspiration behind it, he explained, “The starting point of the collection was the reaction from the brides and couture client. It is the sense of future primitively which the brand embodies. The latest couture collection explores unusual silhouettes of unconventional forms, mixed with a lot of drapes and intelligent construction. There are multi-layered high waist skirts, lots of layering and classic silhouettes with a modern twist, making them sexy and timeless. The brand’s indigenous techniques of futuristic boning, sculpting and Indian baroque come into play in this collection. There are newer special techniques, intricate embroideries and dramatic boned off-shoulder necklines. The color palette is that of newer softer pastels with options of vintage colors like an english blue, lavender and cherry. The collection will focus on a glamorous line of modern Indian gowns, draped sari styled with unusual jackets and sari lehengas.” Speaking about the evolution of Indian Couture Week, Gaurav Gupta said, “Indian couture has certainly evolved. We started doing sari gowns which became a rage. We have introduced newer forms which tend to trend all over the country.”
About his new couture statement, Rahul Mishra said, “We have used elements from the oldest hand technique and artworks inspired by delicate flora of the monsoon. Each garment brings to life a confluence of traditional techniques, and amazing handwork and skills of gifted artisans and embroiderers. The completely hand-made collection interspersed with abundance detailing gives a new meaning to haute couture, for that special day in a woman’s life. Even usage of colours and fabrics like organza for lehenga revolve around the idea of a fresh perspective. The colours are not really bright colours which couture is usually associated with but are toned down. We created a kind of layering in colours, to emulate the feeling of a washed effect.”
This time ICW 2016 will get a befitting closure on Day 5 with stunning ensembles by India's true connoisseur of luxury and veteran style guru Rohit Bal. The designer’s show will be held at Bikaner House on July 24. Bal has been lighting up the fashion landscape for more than 25 years and has strived to resuscitate the design traditions of a vibrant country through his robust offerings. The fashion week will be a tribute to luxury and will pen a new story of grandeur in keeping with the aesthetics of Indian traditions.