Shambhavi Suri takes a trip down the lanes of nostalgia with the flavours of Daryaganj and comes back satiated
When one thinks of Delhi, the first thing that crosses one’s mind is the delectable food which the city is known for. The food culture of the city is certainly one-of-its-kind. While Delhiites can’t thank the Mughals and the British enough for imparting distinct flavours to their cuisine, there is also the influence of the immigrant Punjabi population, especially that of restaurateur Kundan Lal Jaggi who contributed by inventing two iconic dishes — Butter chicken and Dal makhani. First served in the 1950s in a small dhaba in Daryaganj, these two dishes have gone on to become global favourites. However, the recipes of the two legendary dishes have changed and modified over time.
I sit at Jaggi’s grandson, Raghav Jaggi’s restaurant in Aerocity, Daryaganj, where he has partnered with his childhood friend Amit Bagga. The duo has recreated the era when the street food at Daryaganj was the most preferred outdoor meal for Delhiites. The décor here is modern yet antique as the seating arena and the partitioning between tables give the place a touch of the bygone era. With people chattering around and timeless Bollywood classics playing in the background, it is not hard to imagine even though momentarily that one is traversing the charming, narrow and winding lanes of the area which answers to the description of Delhi-6. And it’s a nostalgic trail.
As some of the best qawwalis come on air, as if on cue, some kebabs are placed on my table. I am served the Original tandoori chicken and Chicken malai tikka. The Tandoori chicken is nothing short of a blast of flavours in my mouth. While its aromatic herbs and spices remind me of the authentic old Delhi flavours, the softness of the chicken makes it melt in my mouth. The yogurt marination makes the tandoori chicken, a little acidic, but that also helps to cut through the spices and gives it a hint of creaminess, a quality that the chicken malai tikka is all about. Cooked simply with cumin and cream, this kebab is as tender as it can be and delicious. It also has a sweetness and nuttiness to it, probably from the grounded cashews that are added to the cream.
Next up are the Original mutton seekh and the Original mutton burrah. As I take a bite of the mutton seekh, I am taken aback. The seekhs have a chariness and smoky texture from the tandoor marks. However, the highlight of the seekhs is that one can distinguish between the flavours of almost all the spices. The dry roasted garam masala not only adds flavour but also a beautiful fragrance to the kebab. The meat for the seekhs is minced, yet there is a bite to it which makes it an extraordinary experience. On the other hand, the mutton burrah made of mutton chops, lightly coated with spices, cooked and smoked in the tandoor, is to die for. The meat falls off the bone and as you take that first bite, releasing all its juices. That truly takes you to heaven.
For the main course, I am served the Original butter chicken and Dal makhani. Dipping in my naan, I realise that the consistency of the butter chicken isn’t the same as any other that are to be had in the market. The gravy of the original butter chicken consists of fresh crushed tomatoes with a bit of butter in which has been tossed tandoori chicken. The dish is garnished with cream. This butter chicken is light on the stomach, has a tanginess which comes from the pulp of tomatoes that aren’t reduced to a puree. This gives the dish a freshness and preserves the tomato juices. This butter chicken is definitely the best of its kind. Taking a sip of the Dal makhani, I fell in love with the dish all over again. Unlike the ones I have tasted before, here the flavour of urad dal dominates and its earthiness adds another profile to the dish. In my world view, mixed with the signature makhani sauce, it certainly qualifies for the title of one of the greatest dishes ever invented.
Ending this beautiful journey of experiencing the original flavours of nostalgia, I dig into the desserts. First up is the Mughlai delicacy, the Phirni. Served in the traditional matka, this saffron flavoured, semolina pudding (as the English would call it) is delightful. Brought down and set to a thick consistency, this phirni seems like the yellow clouds that are seen after rains. On the palate, it feels the same — light and fluffy as a cloud. The Mixed nuts kulfi is nothing fancy. Served on a bamboo stick it transports you back to your childhood when you could actually taste and chew the dry-fruits in this frozen delight.
The taste of the food proves that the people behind Daryaganj are paying attention to each and every detail to recreate the recipes of yore. The restaurant uses no machines and sticks to the traditional tools of cooking such as the mortar-pestle, which brings out the best flavours.
With its ambience, experience and taste, one almost feels sitting in the original restaurant in Daryaganj, enjoying some exceptional kebabs and curries and enjoy the qawwalis being sung live in the yard just outside the restaurant. Aah, the pleasures of the days past.