The coming year, I feel, will be governed by comfort, as well as the everlasting appeal of the garment. The focus would be on combining the age-old techniques with a contemporary twist. In fact, it has been my attempt with every garment I design to create a unique and individualistic amalgamation of traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern cuts and draping techniques — synonymous with the beauty, grace and elegance of a woman.
As far as colours are concerned, 2016 will see a burst of bright colours — ranging from crimson red to sunshine yellow. Even pastels will get bright highlights. There would be a lot of experimentation with monochrome themes, while giving wings to each designer's creativity and individualistic imagination.
Brands like Kaaisha (her brand) would be using lots of Indian specialty fabrics, such as jute silk, rang kaat Banarasi, kata silk and lucknavichikan, along with specially sourced fabrics from different countries, like Italy, Dubai, Japan and Singapore. lots of emphasis will be given to the revival of old Indian arts, like Madhubani paintings from Bihar, miniature paintings from Rajasthan and kantha work from Bengal. Our collection based on miniature paintings drawn by talented artistes have found much appreciation.
lehengas will rule the ramp and at Indian weddings, with lots of contemporary twists to the centuries old garment. These would carry multiple layers, with long trails and in fish cut styles. Specially designed latkans would be used to enhance the look of the garment, however the stereotypical ball-like versions of the ornament would not be very fashion savvy. Cholis can be off-shoulder, backless or with one shoulder strap.
The saree will make a grand comeback not just in metamorphosed versions like lehenga sarees or saree gowns, but in its classic form. My emphasis has always been on sarees that are not only exclusive and enchanting, but rather singular in design and suited to individualistic choices.
After mindlessly aping the West for gowns in the last few years, Indians are now understanding that nothing beats the saree as a true value for money garment. Today, instead of flaunting their gowns, brides love to accentuate and flaunt their curves in a saree. Designers would be focussing on drapes that give a nice shape to a body. lots of looks would be created using applique and patchwork techniques.
All in all, classic and traditional Indian cuts, fabrics and colours, versioned into contemporary styles, will make a strong comeback; but the quintessential nine yard wonder will continue to captivate and mesmerise in its most pure and original form.
by Shalini Gupta