Paniyarams and litti chokha are fast emerging as quick grab meals.Muskaan Sharma reports on a micro local food revolution
If food is about throwing up an element of surprise on a dull day and is still predominant as a sensory experience, it’s time for a native revolution. And thanks to the growing awareness of wholesome, home-cooked fare as the perfect antidote to fad diets, regional specialities are emerging into go-and-grab avatars for millennials. Increasingly, you have such bite-sized breakfast staples like the paniyarams taking over our morning meal plans from the staid and heavy idli/dosa/sambar or aloo-subji combos. Roasted Himalayan dals have already established themselves as in-between snacks and nutritious fillers in a six mini-meal plan. little wonder then that crowds buzzed around Masalas of India, a celebration of India’s regional food — Bengali, Bihari, Goan, Punjabi and North-Eastern — at the amphitheatre of Ansal Plaza over the weekend. Hosting eateries such as Ahad Sons, which is known for their authentic and rich Kashmiri food, laid out an array of mini meals. lucknow’s iconic Tunde Kabab showed it could do mini portions while Desee Dakshin reinvented Malabar Parathas. Bombay Brunch offered Maharashtrian street food like Dabeli, Misal Pav and Bhel Puri. And Mr littiwala, a popular Bihari joint, showed how litti Chokha and Murga litti could expand the arc of our preferences. Says co-organiser of the festival and founder of So Delhi, Digant Sharma, “Delhi is unquestionably a test case. It is a foodie city which means people are ever ready to sample and relish different cuisines. Regional food, which has evolved historically with complexity and balance, is, therefore finding a new place.”
Contradicting the belief that regional food is no match for Western style deli menus, Shantanu Verma, founder of GoBuzzinga, says “You’ve got actual restaurant chains selling biryani on-the-go today. Regional food will always offer that extra zaika and flavour that is always in demand in Delhi. When you’re craving authentic butter chicken, you wouldn’t really settle for a pizza would youIJ We all love gorging ourselves on South Indian dosas, polishing off a whole dish of Goan prawns curry. Now we’re striving to make all this authentic goodness readily available, and more importantly, ready-to-eat.”
The festival saw the revival of Old Delhi’s special Mohabbat Ka Sharbat, Charan Singh Kulfi and Kala Khatta with chuskis, Shikanji. Replacing popular fast food options, that are less time -consuming, the festival introduced mini meals. For breakfast, there were Tandoolache ghavan (rice flour pancakes), Kaande Pohe, Bombay Khara Rava (Semolina). These can double up as snacks along with oven-roasted chickpeas. For leisurely lunch options, one can opt for mini thalis that have a preparation time of less than an hour.
Says chef Mahesh Sharma of Radisson Blu, Dwarka, “Chefs these days are doing their best to keep regional cuisine on top. It has become part of their identity and signature statements. Our palate is naturally attuned to home-grown spices and herbs. All they need is some smart presentation and tweaking for contemporary appeal. Regional cuisine can be featured in mainstream eateries and restaurants as well.”
According to the chef, trends in food have tipped in the favour of regional cuisines too. “Nowadays Marwari food is gaining popularity because of its richness and lavish food served on occasions like marriages etc. Food like dal makhni, shahi paneer, bhuna gosht and soup like tamatar ka shorba can be seen in party buffets and people prefer to have such food,” he adds.
Jaspreet Madaan, co-owner of The Classroom, a regional food eatery, elucidates on these food habits. “India is a country of vast and diverse food variety and history. Unlike before, people are paying great attention to cuisine. As the demand for innovation is increasing, more restaurants are exploring and expanding the gastronomical segment. In this scenario, regional cuisines have become the new emerging stars, as many mainstream eateries are adopting them to bring freshness to both the restaurant and customers,” he says.
With increasing awareness about health and eating habits, there has been a steady shift from junk to regional food items.
“The more we encourage regional foods to flourish, the more popular it will become among the youngsters. The youth today is much smarter and aware than their previous generations. They are conscious and healthy eaters as well, knowing that food has a direct link to overall health and well being. Many of our regional foods are healthy and wholesome in comparison to Western junk. The young will be hooked to our regional foods in no time,” he adds.