With award-winning Chef de Cuisine Veena Arora, we explore the new summer collection menu featuring mangoes that she has created for The Spice Route at The Imperial. By Aakriti Narang
From the interiors of the room to the constituents of your food; everything is promising at The Spice Route. Considered to be one of The Imperial’s best restaurants, The Spice Route encapsulates the essence of the spices and peculiarities of Kerala, Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysian food all under one roof. It is truly a complete package for South-East Asian cuisine. We were awestruck by the amount of thought and effort that was put into its design. After seven and a half years of preparation, the restaurant is divided into nine parts that are each symbolically significant in their own way. We were enamoured by the authentic Thai décor that was based on beliefs which coincide with traditional Hindu ones.
As we entered the restaurant, the lights got dimmer and our expectations rose higher. Cozily sheltered away from the sun’s bright rays, the traditional Thai architecture-based roof looked very sturdy and reassuring. The entrance was very narrow and consisted of pillars made of wood that was a hundred years old. The narrowness of the short passage was meant to allow only one person to enter at a time, a phenomenon symbolic of birth and death. We entered this world alone and death makes sure that we leave solo. Images of Goddess Kali and various other deities greeted you as you walked further inside. This space was given the title of ‘knowledge’, which we gradually acquire after birth.
At the far end was a large table on its own, obviously meant for a large family. Following on, there were tables for four that were neatly clubbed together, with their crockery shining bright as though each plate eagerly awaited the arrival of its customer. Towards our left, there were tables for two. Further ahead, the walls on this side were decorated with sculptures of men and women crowded together with their eyes closed. The closed eyes referred to the concept of death, making these men and women our ancestors. Statues of Buddha were placed at the corners to radiate positive energy. The centre space was conceptualised as being a ship. It was much more spacious; the floor was wooden and the roof painted in shades of blue. The line of thought wasn’t difficult to decipher from then on: we are all sailing our own ships on our own different paths. It was pleasant to see such a concept-driven restaurant.
“One of the best compliments that I’ve received was from The Thai Princess. She said that, outside Thailand, The Spice Route is the best Thai restaurant,” said award-winning Chef de Cuisine Veena Arora. Chef Arora has been working at The Spice Route ever since its inception which took place two decades ago. Each year, she comes up with a fresh summer collection menu for her customers. In doing so, she gives them a chance to relish both ripe and raw mangoes during the time of the year that when they grow best. Our experience of her new summer collection menu was entirely guided by her. We began with Naam Mamuang as well as Yum Mamuang Kung Krob in the non-vegetarian arena and Yum Mamuang Chef’s Special in the vegetarian one. During this one meal, we had eaten mango in all its possible forms, which were highly creative. The Naam Mamuang was a mango-flavoured drink served with crushed ice and basil seeds floating on top. The tangy mango flavour removed all the day’s fatigue whilst the Yum Mamuang was a refreshing take on a traditional salad. The fresh grated green mango was tossed in spicy Thai dressing and was complemented by crispy soya chunks that could not be eaten silently. The taste was unique and enjoyable; it was only once you took a closer look at what lay in front of you that you realised the extent to which Chef Arora has played around with the ingredients. The Mamuang Kung Krob included dry shrimp and battered fried prawns along with the spicy raw mango salad. The mélange was true to Thai food; all that we had tried out was essentially a marriage of eastern and western foods that were harmoniously combined to create something unique. Maambalam Irachi Porichatu consisted of wok fried mutton with Kerala spices and sliver of raw mango. In all the dishes, paradoxically speaking, the spotlight subtly always remained on the mango.
For soup, we tried the Mangai Rassam, which was a spicy broth of lentil and fresh mango juice tempered with exotic spices and garnished with ripe mango. Served in an antique styled bowl with a broad tureen, this was exotic as well as filling. Who knew ripe mango, or aam panna as we call it, could be used to make soupIJ We must admit, we did hesitate for a second but placing trust in Chef Arora’s preparation, we dived straight in. It was difficult to stop after that. What’s more, we hadn’t even begun the main course yet!
Amba Curry, or a Sri-lankan raw mango and assorted vegetable curry, is best eaten with a Kerala style soft-centered rice pancake stuffed with mangoes called Maambalam Appam, so we were told. After trying it out, we had to agree. Intermittently we would dip bits of our Maambalam Appams into Amba Curry as a break from the Plae-Saan and Ga Xao Hot Dieu that consisted our lavish main course. The Plae-Saan was a crispy fillet of sole served with silky bean curd and shredded mango sauce. It smoothly melted into our mouths. The Gao Xao Hot Dieu was Vietnamese-style stir-fried chicken with ripe mango and cashewnuts. It’s a hit with the customers each year. The ripe mango and cashewnuts were fresh additions to what non-vegetarians so easily take for granted: chicken. The Thai jasmine rice with coconut syrup and mango looked similar to Japanese sticky rice but they turned out to be worlds apart. With the mango chunks delicately infused in the rice, we got a chance to savour the jasmine and coconut syrup. Both were in moderate proportions, with neither one overshadowing the other’s taste. All in all, it was a uniquely wonderful filler.
Our extensive meal ended on a beautifully ingenious note with Khanom Ruam Mitr. This was served in a tall glass with sweetened coconut milk and crushed ice. In it, with every swirl of the spoon we could see colourful water chestnut, jackfruit and chunks of bright ripe orange mango emerge. This would have to be the most creative dessert we have ever had. It was not way too sweet either. This is why The Spice Route does not seem to face competition. As Chef Arora said, “Typically, in Thai restaurants you’ll be served with green chicken curry. We offer more than such basics.”
In 2012, Chef Arora has been awarded the Best lady Chef by the Ministry of Tourism in India for her Outstanding Achievement and Contribution to the Promotion of Tourism in the Country by Pratibha Patel. On beginning her journey as a chef, she said, “It comes naturally to you. I was born in Thailand. Each family in Thailand has got a nanny who looks after the housekeeping. Each morning I would hear the sound of masala and curry paste being pounded in the kitchen. In Thailand, people don’t buy their masala, instead they make it at home. My mum was a pure vegetarian but she could prepare each non-vegetarian dish with expertise. I loved eating; I loved trying out new foods but it was largely because of my mum and my nanny that I got interested in cooking.”
Cooking Thai food in India will no doubt bring fame. However, Chef Arora recalls an instance when a customer claimed her food was not Thai. “When that happens, it really hurts you. All our ingredients come from Thailand; I am from Thailand and the boy that works with me is from Thailand. Seeing that I am an Indian woman, people think that what I make won’t be genuine.” She said that she has got to think of the dishes for next year’s summer collection now, when mangoes are in season. “Earlier, when I had to create summer menus it would be a piece of cake. I’d experiment and really carefully think about what would work. Now when I’m told to create a new summer menu, I really have to think for some time. It takes me a while to create some magic because I’ve prepared so many menus in my entire life.” Nonetheless, she makes it a point to incorporate each kind of mango in her collection of recipes.