Designers RITU BERI, Debarun Mukherjee and Anavila Misra explain how the indigenous fabric works best for the contemporary bridal market. Ankita Jain and Unnati Joshi report
Can khadi make it to the bridal trousseauIJ The answer would be an overwhelming “no.” Khadi silk sarees could at most make it to corporate brides but nothing beyond that. And it is this fashion challenge that leading designers are taking on readily, reinventing a common man’s fabric for the lush bride.
Couturist Sabyasachi has over the years reported success with his khadi bridal lehengas, his highest seller till date. But then he has been the path-breaker. Many more are picking up his template and reinterpreting it in various ways. Those like Kolkata-based Debarun Mukherjee is taking khadi to an all-new level by making it the leitmotif of his bridal line.
Calling it Khadi Resplendent, he feels fashion cannot exist in isolation and needs to go hand-in-hand with environmental sustainability. This entails long hours of manual work and reduced production without machines but the designer said that many positives are working in khadi’s favour. “It has always been associated with the old; I wanted to change this mindset. I wanted to promote khadi for power dressing. If styled well, khadi (be it cotton or silk) could work for any occasion. My clothing line fits anyone who is not just looking for pretty clothes but a soul or a story in what they wear, a strong Indian identity, aesthetics and a conscience. The colour and textures of khadi are such that it becomes an inspirational fabric. It is not decorative but a fabric which breathes. Also, khadi is the most natural, organic fabric. Ideal for Indian weather conditions, it keeps the wearer cool in summers and warm in winters.”
To give a modern spin to khadi, he has used zardozi embroidery and block prints: “I have taken warm and rich colours and mixed cotton khadi with silk and other fabrics. My range is about light bridal to occasion wear with embellishments.”
Usually Indian brides prefer fabrics like chiffon, georgette or silk for their bridal outfit. Will khadi be able to replace theseIJ “People now know what they want to wear and how to create the fashion statement within their perfect comfort zone. Khadi is yet to be discovered by our industry — however it is acknowledged to be the most breathable and comfortable fabrics ever. And that works in its favour. Yet it can be as luxurious as you want it to be or as subtle as suits your demeanour. But there’s a wide range of possibilities,” said Debarun.
Designer Ritu Beri worked way ahead of her times, putting out a ceremonial khadi line as early as 1990. Today, she is rightly helming a project to make khadi a global fabric. “It is the signature fabric of India. The endeavour is to encourage national and international fashion designers to create their collections using khadi. We, therefore, need to create an exclusivity with it that is so well-deserved. A bridal line meets that criteria.”
Talking about how khadi stands out in a bridal collection, she said, “If a bride wears a piece, she immediately gets noticed, used as we are to the same monotonous look during weddings. The material not only evokes patriotic fervour but there’s also a romantic side to it. My concept of a khadi bride is one who projects a modern look while retaining the traditional attributes of a woman. She is a woman who has evolved gracefully with the exigencies of time and yet has the conviction to look inwardly into her soul.”
Her collection is easy to wear and an eclectic blend of ghagras, salwars and chola-like jackets. “The collection makes you bond with our Indian roots as it is in khadi silk. I believe that line, proportion, cut and simplicity are the basic elements of designing. The collection consists of Indo-Western silhouettes and reflects Indian charm but with a modern flavour. I try to give khadi a global image, to adopt it to different forms of creativity, instead of restricting it to the image of yesteryears. Interesting details, a mix of appliqué as well as unusual embroidery constitute this versatile collection.” Her colour palette for bridal wear ranges from white to pastel and metallic to black. She also customises groom wear in the same fabric.
Designer Anavila Misra believes that while khadi silk has been used by the fashion industry for quite sometime, it is now that it is slowly becoming the norm rather than the exception. “We have always been working with natural materials like linen, cotton, wool, silk and khadi. It is just that more and more people are now moving towards sustainable fashion. I think there is a whole new appeal for bridal wear that is less embellished and cleaner. Sustainable fashion has opened up a parallel range of garment choices. And as a natural progression, this has gone into bridal wear as well.”
For her, khadi looks best in natural dyes. “For brides one can choose the brighter tones like orange and earthy red. The ensembles can be kept simpler on embellishments and focus more on silhouettes. Block print with a hint of metallic gold works well. It is a very discerning client who understands the importance of natural fabrics and their beauty. Grooms too can look very stylish and distinct in khadi.”