Chef Subrata Debnath creates authentic Bengali delicacies with The Aromas of Bengal. By Kritika Dua
The city of joy’s prolific food culture is influenced by cooking styles of both West Bengal and the erstwhile East Bengal, each of which has a distinct identity. Ancestral cuisine is cherished in Bengali families at the everyday level and a strong emphasis is laid on carrying forward such legacies.
Taking this tradition forward, The Aromas of Bengal, a Bengali Food Festival by Taj City Centre, Gurugram, is Chef Subrata Debnath’s homage to the ancestral home cuisine from East Bengal. He has included some of his grandmother’s secret recipes such as the Dhakai Kosha Mangsho, a Dhaka-style take on the popular mutton kosha, the secret of which lies in the ratio of caramelised sugar.
The fare at Culina 44 is a thoughtful selection of an array of traditional dishes that exemplify classic Bengali cuisine, varying from home-style Paalong Shaager Chorchori to the celebratory Shorshe Eilish and Daab Chingri. It also features the chef’s unique creations including Smoked Eilish and Rui Maachher Patishapta, a stuffed savoury crepe, which is otherwise made using coconut as a dessert.
Being a true Bengali, the ancestral cuisine has always been close to his heart, almost like homecoming. “I have grown up on it and even today it forms my staple diet. As a culinarian, I developed an interest towards it around 2000 after I returned to India from my first trip overseas. Fortunately, I got the opportunity to launch an authentic Bengali restaurant in Kolkata that involved a thorough research into home-grown traditions. Thus, I travelled extensively to delve deep into the intricacies of the cuisine – from understanding ingredients to unique cooking methods.” He adds that his grandmother was instrumental in teaching him the most authentic techniques and nuances.
The essence of Bengali cuisine lies in its ingredients. “The core ingredient of every dish remains the star – whether the fish, the vegetable or the meat. Fish, of course, is at the heart of the dish it features in and there are numerous varieties that are consumed. Hilsa or Eilish as we call it is our celebratory fish and is a staple at weddings, events and celebrations. lighter fishes like Rui (Rohu) and Kaatla (Carp) are usually a part of the daily diet. Aromatics, spices and other ingredients include radhuni (similar to caraway but with a unique flavour profile), black mustard, panch phoron (a dry spice mix made with five seeds), roasted cumin, onion seeds, poppy seeds, mustard oil, bay leaf, coconut, nolen gur (palm jaggery with a delectable smoky flavour) and ghee prepared from cow’s milk.”
In an era of experimentation with Indian and international cuisine, chef Debnath stays true to his roots but doesn’t mind adapting dishes to local palates. “I am a thorough believer in authenticity and retaining the real flavours of any traditional cuisine. Instead of giving a contemporary touch, I recommend retaining authentic flavours and adapting to local palates. The Smoked Elish, for example, is a boneless preparation of Hilsa fish, particularly meant for those who fear fish with bones.” He shares that they have received some extremely encouraging feedback for The Aromas of Bengal festival at Culina 44 and the intention is to celebrate the cuisine more often. The restaurant is otherwise known for its Mediterranean, Southeast Asian and Indian cuisines, taking the guests to a epicurean journey across the globe. Says he, “The kitchen is my temple. The love for food, the passion for cooking and an intrinsic affinity towards the industry at large are the reasons why I am in the food and hospitality industry.”
Chef Debnath stays abreast of food trends. “I engage in extensive research every week on new trends, ingredients and cooking methods. I make it a point to forage local markets to understand the local flavours and ingredients that help me innovate and experiment in the kitchen.” He seeks inspiration from a multitude of sources. Chef Alain Ducasse remains one of his most cherished sources of inspiration. He has worked in some of the top hotels and shared his experience, “Every hotel kitchen has a different working culture and operational style. I have always strived to learn something new and challenging in every kitchen that I have worked in.”
On Debnath’s culinary journey, “The last 25 years have been vibrant, enriching and full of learning. My first job with the Taj in Bangalore was all about learning the basics. Today, as the Executive Chef of the Taj City Centre Gurugram, I lead a team of 60 odd chefs at one of the company’s most iconic hotels.” The signature dishes at the restaurant include Prawn Saffron Risotto, Seared New Zealand lamb Rack, Galouti Kebab, Spinach Ricotta Ravioli and Classic Tiramisu.
He has travelled extensively in India and abroad. On the culinary experimentation inspired from these destinations, “I have tried to learn and absorb the local cuisine in every city that I have worked and lived in. Kolkata and Chennai particularly enjoy traditional cuisines more than their metro counterparts. Bangkok and Singapore are fairly experimental but their respective local fare has inspired me a lot in the kitchen.”
His advice to upcoming Chefs — be passionate about the craft, champion the basics first like history, techniques and recipes. Then, use your creativity to improvise and innovate.”