In the face of changing environment, are anti-pollutant cosmetics the way to goIJ Team Viva finds out
Ageing, acne, eczema, wrinkles and more — the blame of all these varying skin problems can be laid at the door of pollution. Brands are gradually warming up to the idea of having a range dedicated to fighting pollution. Sandhya Sakhuja, business head, Personal Care, Fabindia, said, “Due to the increase in the pollution levels across cities in the country even youthful skin shows signs of dullness which is a concern for our young adults as it leads to signs of aging much before time. Their skin actually should be glowing simply on account of great metabolisms and healthy bodies. Instead dry and dullness is being fought with either good skincare regime or a cover up with the help of coloured cosmetics. This has led to many skin care brands exploring the option of creating regular care products that can help prevent the ill effects of pollution on the skin.” Fabindia uses a Activated Charcoal, Isoamyl laurate (natural replacement of silicones), certain essential oils etc. Neem and basil oil in its range to protect against pollution.
A dedicated skin care range to fight pollution has been in the offing for varied reasons. Exposing the skin to smoke and particulate pollution creates immense stress which in turn leads to irritation, bad circulation and clogged pores. As is well-known, clogged pores are an important reason for the outbreak of acne, pimples and blackheads. Harmful UV rays and pollution age the skin earlier than usual. long term exposure to pollution will lead to skin that is dull, prone to allergy, dry patches and eczema. But help is at hand — or is itIJ A host of cosmetic brands have launched their anti-pollution range supposedly to prevent the ill-effects of pollution or tone down its ill-effects.
According to a 2013 study published in the Clinical Cosmetology Investigative Dermatology journal, the sun’s UV rays are responsible for approximately 80 per cent of visible facial ageing signs, including wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation and loss in skin elasticity. Another study published last year showed how increased air pollution was linked to brown spots on the skin among people in Germany and China.
KronoKare is the brainchild of Cyril and it has developed the Pollu-fight skincare and Pollu-fight haircare which forms a polysaccharide matrix (protective screen) over face and hair to prevent toxic pollutant particles from penetrating skin pores.
The brand has observed that anti-pollutant cosmetics have become a rage among young adults. Cyril said, “It became a rage due to the increasing demand. There was a need to develop an anti-pollution range especially in Delhi and Mumbai, because the concern about pollution in these cities is quite real. The millennial is well informed about its repercussions as they have easy access to information. Therefore, they are much more conscious in comparison to older generation about the damage caused by pollution and the ways to prevent it for the future.”
Rajni Ohri, founder, Ohria said, “The dangerous levels of pollution in urban cities around the world have prompted clients to extensively use anti-pollutant cosmetics. The effects of pollution range from dryness, rashes, eczema, acne to early ageing and pigmentation. The adult consumers are very well aware of these harmful effects and are exploring anti-pollutant cosmetics more often. Nowadays, every urbanite chooses their cosmetics on the basis of pollution defending properties of the ingredients used. They look for antioxidants, natural vitamins, botanicals that form a barrier against harmful environment.”
Many organic brands have stepped on to the bandwagon of anti-pollutants. Are they effective at allIJ “There are a lot of anti-pollution cosmetics flooding the market but I don’t know how efficient they are. In the end, it all depends on the brand. Some brands tell you that lavender has anti-pollutant properties which is not true at all. For cosmetics with anti-pollutants, complex formulations are important that allows the skin to breathe but at the same time, prevents the nano-particles from clogging the pores,” mentioned Cyril. In their products, a matrix has been formulated which creates a thin layer that can be easily absorbed by the skin thereby preventing the pollution from entering the epidermis.
Shubhika Jain, RAS luxury oils, founder said, it is difficult to talk about the efficiency because it all depends on the brand and the ingredients. I feel if the right ingredients are used, the products will be effective as well. Ohri believes that these products are highly effective in not only forming a barrier against pollutants but also in solving the after exposure concerns. Ingredients like natural clay, natural herbs and plant extracts are rich in antioxidants like vitamin C and E niacinamide.
When asked about the dire need for these products in the market, Cyril replied, “With anti-pollutant cosmetics, the skin doesn’t age fast. The results can be seen in a month’s time. There will be fewer wrinkles, the complexion will be better, no red patches and the skin will not be irritated.”
Sakhuja added, “Constant exposure to pollution leads to dry dull skin. If not dealt with well in time, it may lead to premature aging of the skin. Dark spots and pigmentation are common problems. In case of oily skin, acne issues are commonly being seen as well.”
Dr Rohit Batra, dermatologist, Dermaworld skin and hair clinic said, “According to recent media reports, the anti-pollution wave is driving the Rs 5,500 crore (US $86.41 million) skin care market in India. The Asian market is flooded with products like anti-pollution soaps, bath products, hair care and other cosmetics. Today’s young adults are extremely health conscious and web savvy. Thus, with levels of air contamination increasing, it is indeed no surprise that these products are gaining popularity among the young adults. Cities like Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru are considered to be few of the most polluted cities in the world. So, these products have gained immense popularity among young adults.” He added that besides giving protection from the strong UV rays through their levels of SPF these cosmetics offer treatment that protects the skin from fine dust giving one a clearer complexion. Further, there are certain cosmetics with dust-block technology that helps in acting against pollution. These act as repairing ointment on the skin cells and helps in revitalising and thereby rejuvenating the skin.
On pollution’s adverse effect on the skin, Dr Batra said, “The amplification in air pollution over the years has had major impact on skin. Air pollutants such as ultraviolet radiation, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, volatile organic compounds, oxides, particulate matter, ozone and cigarette smoke affect the skin severely. Depending on the nature of the pollutants and the integrity of the skin, the modes of the penetration might differ. The protective ability of the skin is not unconstrained. Problems arise when an abnormal exposure to environmental pollutants exceed the skin’s normal defensive potential.”
“Air pollutants damage the skin by inducing oxidative stress. In human skin, exposure to ozone causes decrease in vitamin E concentration in stratum corneum, and reduction in skin microflora. Prolonged exposure to high levels of harmful pollutants does have profound effects on the skin. Pollution breaks down collagen and the lipid layer in the skin thereby impairing skin barrier functions. It can result in uneven skin tone, dark spots et al. Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has been associated with extrinsic skin ageing and skin cancer. Cigarette smoke contributes to premature aging and an augmentation in the incidence of psoriasis, acne and skin cancer. Also, it leads to allergic skin conditions such as a topic dermatitis and eczema. Polyaromatic hydrocarbons too are associated with pigmentation and acne form eruptions.” added he.