The revamped Dhaba, at The Claridges, has the quintessential robust North-Indian flavour which evokes the good times, says Khushbu Kirti
Just once in a while there arrives a time where you reach the right place, at the right time. This was a different situation though, you see, for we were on the lookout for a good place to eat as we were starving. So we made our way to this iconic heritage restaurant, established in the 1950s, which was revamped recently... and in a very good sort of way.
We were welcomed by nothing but the warmth of the 1980s, for the cozy little place inside the magnificent Claridges, reminded one of a rudimentary but sophisticated dhaba on the outskirts of a town. Fashioned traditionally, the Dhaba invites one with chairs made of natural-fibre ropes and wooden frames which are used in conventional charpais. Food is served in copper and aluminium utensils, which also double up as decor. The walls — embellished with a picturesque false window panel — reminds one very much of sarso ke khet, so romanticised by Bollywood, which can lead one to imagine that s/he has been transported to a village in the late 20th century.
Displayed on one of the shelves was a collection of dabbas or Indian tiffin boxes through time — an evolution of tiffin-boxes, if I may say so. I was entirely intrigued by the unique concept of the gold-copper tiffin boxes with five layers of bowls that were tightly held together by the lid. The story behind the display was to remind one of school days and tiffins shared with friends. Evoking a feeling of nothing but pure nostalgia and bringing back fresh memories, the tiffin was a way of sharing food with your special someone, of eating together with your close ones.
The marcom manager, Sukirti Singhal, told us that the vision for the restaurant was to create an impeccable amalgamation of tradition and modernity, enveloped by sophistication, reaching anybody and everybody who craves a good meal.
Chef Mahavir Singh, who is also currently heading Dhaba, shared that although following a very traditional pattern and atmosphere, the team, undoubtedly, added a pinch of modernity to their menu.
The restaurant is farsighted to be well-equipped with effective solutions for a possible third-wave of COVID-19, too. Dhaba plans to deliver food by special agents who would not only deliver orders but also serve them, after the chefs customise the food according to what is asked, thus, enabling a very personalised experience.
The team of chefs ensured that our food was customised to our needs — less spicy, no potatoes, more gravy. It felt great to see our ridiculous demands being fulfilled with utmost sincerity and dedication. The four-course meal started with delectable appetisers which seemed to whisper words of hope to our benumbed, famished tummies. The string of roasted Malai chicken, Palak kebabs, Corn and methi rolls, and Amritsari paneer tikka, was followed by the main course of non-vegetarian and vegetarian dabbas or tiffins.
One tiffin comprised five layers, which was adequate for two people. The sumptuous meal spoke to us on a completely different level. Chef Mahavir had already informed us of their signature dish, Balti meat. On asking about the speciality, he explicated that the mutton is stoked the prior night and raw water is not used, which makes the gravy thick and wholesome. True to his word, the balti meat turned out to be delightful. The specialties at Dhaba also include Murg highway tikka, Seekh kebab and Jalandhari meat in the non-vegetarian platter, and Baigan ka bharta, Punjabi kadhi, Tandoori aloo and more for the vegetarians.
The simple, clean flavours of Mixed vegetables, with its fresh-cut tomatoes, ladyfinger, beans and peas made for comfort food. The remaining bowls comprised delicious layers of Dal makhani, rice and the finger-licking Butter chicken. As we spoke amongst ourselves of who liked what best, we were served with desserts. As we tucked in the Kulfi, Badaam halwa and Rasmalai, not a sound was to be heard except for the clattering of spoons as the flavours mixed and created a fusion of luscious perfection.
As we shared some great conversations, laughed around, and had an excellent culinary experience, I would like to believe that this is what Dhaba wanted us to feel — garnering beautiful memories while sharing our dabbas with colleagues and friends.