The dried fruit popped up frequently on a buffet created by Kolkata-based chef Prabhir Haldar for the NTC in Gurgaon. SM Verghis had a taste
I am a huge fan of regional cuisine. The more varied the better. So I have been happy to note that my grocery shopping basket has grown a wider arc, with many kinds of rices, pulses, savoury-snacks and what not, boasting names of states or cities.
The latest of these was poha from Ujjain. I had previously purchased Kerala red rice along with a version from Tamil Nadu, and was gratified to find that the former was some hybrid version which did not require as much water as it usually does.
If the contents of my digestive tract were musical, the food I have ingested would be singing various state anthems. And what was my surprise recently, to discover that dates are a regular fixture in Bengali diet. It’s not as if they are desert people, but forest and riverine folk.
Everyone who likes Bengali food like I do, must known about Bhappa Illish (steamed hilsa). Cooked in trademark mustard oil, the same treatment, involving turmeric, salt, black and yellow mustard, can be meted on other sweet water fish like rohnu, once it is steamed.
“Traditionally, this is by wrapping it in banana leaf,” explained Chef Prabhir Haldar, who is supervising the buffet menu at Park Plaza’s New Town Cafe and lounge.
Chef had lugged along some Bengali cooking ingredients like radhuni (similar to celery or ajwain seeds) which are added to the illish.
But first Senior Chef de Partie Nipun Sabharwal organised two starters. The very spicy fish cutlet made with turmeric, spice and basa, (which I balk from eating because its not regarded as a clean fish), and aaloo chop. This aaloo cutlet is basically street food which was upgraded with spices like cloves and raidhuni. It was accompanied by an explosive watery chutney, made with watermelon seeds, chillies and tamarind. I believe its called charmugas. Accompanying these was refreshing aam panna.
Apart from the hilsa, the buffet featured the Murshidabadi Murgi Jhhol. Unfortunately we did not learn what makes this different, except that its ‘curry cut’ (a term that simply means the entire chicken is cut into small pieces for a curry), and uses ingredients like white pepper and raidhuni again. However, the Calcutta mutton biryani was distinguished by large potato pieces. Along with eggs that are boiled, then fried. The rest of the process resembled any variation of classic biryanis from around the country, with layers of rice, potatoes and meat. Amidst the general tumble of dishes on our plate, one that immediately caught our attention was the simple, or not so simple, Channer kofta curry. I write this like a chant!
It was made like regular kofta, except the balls were of channer, created by splitting milk with lemon. I do this regularly at home with milk gone stale. But the result is harder, I figure it means you don’t boil milk long. Or it depends on how creamy it is. Anyho, Chef’s was solid till you chewed. And you didn’t chew long. It just melted in the mouth. Other dishes were the vegetable mixes such as potato with khus khus (how I do it usually).
I’m someone who detests rajma and dal makhni. But I took two helpings of channa dal with coconut and dates. Most of the sweetness in Chef’s cooking was dates. Apparently this is not uncommon with Bengalis, who import dates and use more in winter. Chef also has a mango-date chutney, and another with mango puree, spice, jaggery, dried mango and tamarind. Must be very tangy.
Great spread, Chef!