Only seven of the 14 majors mentioned in the CSE’s recent study on heavy metals in cosmetics have given an explanation. None of it is convincing yet
If a recent research on cosmetics is anything to go by, then you should immediately knock out a certain brands of lipsticks and fairness creams from your list of cosmetics. A recent study by a Center for Science and Environment’s (CSE) Pollution Monitoring lab (PMl) found mercury in 44 per cent of the fairness creams it tested. It also found chromium in 50 per cent and nickel in 43 per cent of the lipstick samples it tested. Mercury was found in 14 fairness creams tested by CSE in the range of 0.10 parts per million (ppm) to 1.97 ppm. “Under the Drugs and Cosmetics Acts and Rules of India, Mercury is banned for use in cosmetics. Their presence in these products indicates that they are not meeting the law. Aroma Magic Fair lotion, a product of Blossom Kochhar Beauty Products Pvt ltd, had the highest mercury level at 1.97 ppm, followed by Olay Natural White (1.79 ppm), a product of Procter and Gamble, India, and Ponds White Beauty (1.36 ppm) of Hindustan Unilever ltd,” shared Amit Khurana, food safety and toxins, CSE. He added that Chromium was found in 15 out of 30 lipsticks tested in the range of 0.45 ppm to 17.83 ppm. Hearts & Tarts (080V) shade of ColorBar had the highest concentration. Nickel was found in 13 out of 30 products tested in the range of 0.57 to 9.18 ppm, with lancomelabsolu Nu-204 of l’Oreal India Pvt ltd containing the highest concentration.
CSE shared its findings with the respective companies to find out the reasons for the presence of such high levels of heavy metals in cosmetics. After several months of correspondence about batch details, testing methodology and follow-ups, only seven companies responded-The Body Shop India, lakme of Hindustan Unilever ltd, Hindustan Unilever ltd, Emami ltd, ElCA Cosmetics Pvt ltd (Estee lauder), Modi Revlon Pvt ltd and ITC ltd.
A few companies responded comprehensively. For instance, lakme and Emami backed up their responses through internal and third party safety assessments and testing. Some also replied briefly addressing only partial set of queries but few cared to own up their responsibility. There was something common to almost all the responses: the presence of heavy metals in the products was not intended. A statement from Blossom Kochchar Beauty Products Pvt ltd said, “This is to inform that we had, on our own initiative, placed our products for extensive testing for presence of heavy metals in July 2013. We are pleased to confirm that all our tests have shown that the levels of mercury and other heavy metals are well within the permissible limits. Further the fairness cream mentioned in the CSE report has been discontinued since 2011.”
However, Amit says that none of the responses from the companies is convincing. “Some companies try to get away saying that there is presence of ‘trace’ metals. Trace refers to low levels of impurities in a finished cosmetic product. Due to the ubiquitous nature of certain heavy metals, that are otherwise prohibited, several countries recognise the non-intended presence of these in small quantities as ‘trace.’ There is no mention of trace or similar concept in the Indian Drugs and Cosmetics Act,” informed Amit.
Talking about the future course of action he said, “It is a campaign we have started to create but we are not looking at legal action.”