The newly-opened Singapore street-style restaurant at Pullman sticks to the fundamentals alright
On a rained out night and stuck in the ghastliest traffic, we sought comfort in some pan-Asian warmth at Honk, the new restaurant at Pullman, Aerocity. Walking in from the gushy wetness into its cane lamp lit-interiors, the chefs warming up our insides from the live cooking station and the low-seating sprawled across a new-age amoeboid floor, it seemed to have a kind of Singapore street cred. Of course, fine-tuned with an urban polish.
The chef here keeps it rather simple and familiar rather than go in for new-fangled diversions. Which works for a cross section of clientele as evidenced by the sizeable young and old crowd on a weekday.
The meal began with the right nibbles of Som Tum or the Thai Green Papaya Salad, just the right bite with a pestle-pounded freshness. So by the time the asparagus tempura roll came to the table, our tastebuds were quite primed up. The spicy tuna tempura flakes with tabiko (roe) and spicy mayo gave that slight kick.
But it was the dimsums that were drool-worthy. There were the white truffle mushroom dumplings that were creamy and consistent. Then came the edamame bean dumplings that were topped with three beans for an artistic presentation. The Jade prawn har gow “perfume de hen,” however, was the most soul-soothing. The wrapper encased a hint of wasabi and a dollop of chicken stock which infused the prawn with such turgidity that it exploded in the mouth like a burst of wholesomeness. Had with Honk condiment sauce, derived from various influences, these translucent dumplings had a completeness of their own. They say that the har gow is a lot about mathematical precision. It should have a certain number of pleats imprinted on its wrapper, the skin must be thin and translucent, yet be sturdy enough not to break when picked up with chopsticks. It must not stick to the paper, container or the other har gow in the basket. The shrimp must be cooked well, but not overcooked. The amount of meat should be generous, yet not so much that it cannot be eaten in one bite. The chef must be complimented for lending his passion to this formulaic creation.
He surprised us with a remarkable comfort and simplicity of a soup of Asian green vegetables, lemon grass and celery. That continued with his crispy and crunchy stir-fried lotus root, broccoli, sugar snap peas in garlic and Shaoxing sauce. This sat light and airy while easing out our palates for the next course.
We chose jasmine rice, given the season, and opted for Massaman lamb curry as an accompaniment, lamb and potato chunks in a steamy, lightly spiced coconut gravy. The lamb was almost molten-tender and the spices and flavours had penetrated it through and through, making the dish a harmonious whole.
The dining experience was enhanced by Pullman’s own brand of wines called Blanc and Rouge. These are specially made by Grover Zampa on two specially cultured plots.
Blanc by Pullman is made from Sauvignon Blanc and is straw-yellow in colour with light lemon tints. The aromas are delicate — subtle herbaceousness, lemony with gentle aromas of guava and pineapple. The flavour of the wine is similar to the tropical fruits like pineapples, green apples, guava with a clean and crisp long finish. Its minerality made for a friendly accompaniment with the initial courses.
Rouge is made of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz/oak and takes 12 months to mature. It has a deeper ruby colour with purple hues. Rouge has powerful aromas of clack fruits like blackberries, plums, dark cherries with an exquisite hint of vanilla and spice like white pepper. It has a mouthful of blackberries, black currants, cherries, bell peppers with a punch of spice. Frankly, you can have it in between without following the classic discipline.
We chose to round the meal off with the caramel chocolate and peanut parfait that came in a sphere. It melted and collapsed with the pouring of a hot chocolate sauce, revealing the soft and smooth praline-peanut butter parfait with a caramel base. Honk clearly plays to the gallery but with a finesse that’s not only acceptable but feel-good.
What is Singapore foodIJ
Singapore has made its name as a top gastronomy destination worldwide. And the diversity of its food is unrivalled.
Hawker Centres
These are a unique aspect of Singapore culture and lifestyle. You can find cheap food and locals eating and mingling together. Hawker centres are open air complexes that house many food stalls selling a wide variety of dishes. They are conveniently located near large housing complexes, where locals live.
Spotless hygiene
Street food is very clean. There’s a wash station to wash your hand before and after your meals. And restrooms that are easily accessible. To control the hygiene level, Singapore government rates the stalls from “A” which corresponds to “super clean” to “D” which corresponds to “hygiene level not acceptable.”
Speciality cuisine
A vendor will focus on only one dish emblematic of Singapore food. This is also true of beverages. Drinks are sold separately by different vendors. Once you order your food, a separate vendor will come and take your order for either fruit juice, soda, beer or coffee. And finally, if you are a dessert lover, you will also have your choice of desserts.
Multicultural platters
About a third of Singapore’s population is Buddhist, followed by sizeable percentages of Christians, Muslims and Hindus. This blending of cultures and religious beliefs is reflected in Singapore food. You find traditional dishes from each of the different ethnic groups. And in addition, a blend of flavours in dishes such as Peranakan food, which is a marriage of Chinese and Malay cuisines.
English language Menus
You’ll be able to easily read the menus and order your dishes.
(Inputs from Authentic Foodquest)