The last two days of the India Couture Week (ICW) showcased opulence along with a mixture of traditions and modern bling
DAY 6
Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna
Rohit and Rahul are, first and foremost, storytellers. Their dresses looked like they were immersed in gleaming crystals and the tuxedos, sharp and detailed with modern embroideries made with heritage techniques.
Their inspiration, this season, was from the luminescent, whimsically irregular, and rigorously aspirational masterworks from their past.The key to their collection was the cutwork. Layer after layer of tiny delicate sheer fabric pieces were hand embroidered on the outfit to form a lattice that veiled yet revealed the female form underneath. Then there were actual overlays of capes and layers of sheer tulle covered with the most delicate organza frays. Everything shook or shimmied.
For men, the controlled use of tassels and fringes added movement and layers. The sparing use of gem coloured crystals and metallic thread embroidery added luxury to modern tailored silhouettes.
The collection was a profusion of opulence with embellished fabrics like velvet, duchesse satin, and chiffon in a harmonious palette of wine, grey, sapphire, and with mostly tonal arabesques or floral embroideries.
Anamika Khanna
In the designer’s words, ‘This collection was an emotion, a way of rejoicing beauty. It was an acceptance of what is, and a celebration of what we are given. This is how we could best pay homage to the most intricate crafts of India.’
Tarun Tahiliani
As with any of Tarun Tahiliani’s other collections, for ICW 2021, his Artisinal Couture collection focussed on exquisite hand-craftsmanship and a continuation of Tarun’s 25 years of work with the country’s artisans. The look was contemporary, where traditional Indian techniques, embroideries and textiles were used in modern ways. Through his creations, Tarun has always aimed to provide relevant design work to the craftsmen that he works with, with the hope that this keeps their stories, livelihood and Indian culture alive.
The latest couture collection is a celebration of colour leading from the Rangrez capsule, where thousands of meters of woven brocade strips were cut out and applied on different forms. The bridal collection was presented in a sublime palette of colours ranging from the traditional bridal reds to contemporary pastels and beiges that have been the mainstay of many of the brand’s recent collections. The label’s Pichwai collection this season took inspiration from the ancient Indian lyrical paintings from Rajasthan that depict big monochromatic scenes of the Raasleela. Finally, the collection’s Chikankari capsule is reminiscent of the tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah in Agra, whose latticed carvings and inlay work formed the basis of the collection’s Chikankari motifs
DAY 7
Kunal Rawal
Inspired by the notion of youth transitioning to adulthood, the pristine idea of ease and comfort, Kunal Rawal’s collection, Vision Quest, presented a fresh take on contemporary silhouettes, intricate embroideries, and a dynamic play on metallic tones. Amalgamating traditions with newness, the collection explored a wide array of functional and deconstructed styles, reflecting the youth and their need for movement and constant growth.
Created with multiple thread works, surface textures, and techniques of French knotting with a play on construction elements, the captivating styles showcased in Vision Quest were extremely versatile and experimental. The colour palette encompasses subtle hues of lilac, dusty salmon, mustard, lemons, sage, rust, ivory, gold’s, aubergine, wines, navy, olives, and steel grey along with some new and exciting shades of denim blue, pastels like iced sky and charcoal.
Anju Modi
Anju Modi’s collection, entitled The Eternal Story, paid tribute to the power of generational legacy.
Relying on traditional designs and techniques along with a hint of the modern touch, it would be impossible to describe The Eternal Story in mere words.
Committed to reviving India’s centuries-old design repertoire with the brand’s signature organic and sustainable approach, each creation from the collection was a story of authentic handcrafted luxury juxtaposed with present-day relevance.
In the designer’s words, “The Eternal Story is instinctive, and almost as old as time itself.”
Rahul Mishra
As per Rahul Mishra himself, “The collection, Kam-khaab is a sequence of dreams woven together like a garland of artistic musing, of emotions and of instances that that we’ve subconsciously lived through, multiple times in our minds. Like an emotion of personalised artistry, it is the hand painting of frescos on the walls of a family home.”
Kam-khaab comprised of garments the designer developed during the two lockdowns, and each ensemble told a different part of the same story.
Articulated with age-old techniques of hand embroidery, the couture was weightless, despite the intricacy of details. Realised in fabrics such as silk organza, georgette, crêpe and tissue along with Banarasi cutwork and Chanderi silk textiles, each piece showcased values of love, craft, beauty, longevity and human touch. While enabling our community of craftsmen and weavers from across the country, Kam-khaab represents luxury that is produced to address the demand, and not pursue consumption. modern tailored silhouettes.