The Jodhpur Gypsy and Flamenco Festival was a rare treat featuring interesting collaborations. Karan Bhardwaj attended it and found out how Spanish dancers are making hay
If music can actually manoeuvre climate, then it was quite heartening to find rains welcoming musicians and performers at Mehrangarh Fort during the three-day Jodhpur Gypsy and Flamenco Festival. The thunderstorm might have disturbed the perfect setting of light and sound across the fort but Indra Dev (God of rains) offered much revered experiences, both to the performers as well as the audience. On the very first day, the Moti Mahal arena immediately became the baithak of musicians where they broke into an impromptu jig, inspiring many in the audience to regale rain and music together. “That’s how we do in Spain. If you have Flamenco performers at a gathering, say a party or a bar, then such acts are natural,” said Spanish Flamenco artiste Karen lugo.
As per the Spanish tradition, she said the juerga (an informal, spontaneous gathering) soon metamorphosed into peña flamenca (a meeting place of musicians) where she, along with other musicians, like vocalist Naike Ponce, violinist Victor Guadiana and drummer Israel Varela brought alive the true spirit of Flamenco. “We had performed on stage earlier but we wanted to continue the party. When you have a small area with people so energetic, it becomes easier to entertain yourself and others. Sometimes, nature intervenes in its own way and you have to respect that. But it allowed us an intimate concert. This is what Flamenco is all about,” said Naike Ponce.
Before climate took a dramatic turn, Aditya Bhasin-led band Rajasthan Roots collaborated with Flamenco artistes to give the audience a ‘sufi gypsy’ flavour. They sang renditions by Bulleh Shah, devotional tracks and songs from Kamad community. Creating a mesmerising jugalbandi of bass, vocal, harmonies and effects, the band created a pulsating groove that bore within it the electrifying percussions of Rajasthan. The team later performed a fusion with Flamenco legends like pianist Chano Dominguez, dancer Daniel Navarro, bassist Javier Colina and El Bola.
On the second day, the overcast dispelled but the musical spirit got stronger.
It was the moment of the festival when Karen lugo, in her colourful gown, and Asha Sapera, from Jodhpur’s Kalbelia community, spiralled together on the stage. lugo’s passionate and furious steps were mellowed down by Asha’s cheerful smile and effortless whirls. Her colourful costume and accentuated makeup adorned the rich legacy of Rajasthani folk music and dances. While both dancers looked graceful on stage, their natural camaraderie stole the show. “I know we share similar roots. Gypsies were jogis in India who wandered from place to place to entertain people. We, as Kalbelias or snake charmers, are also travellers. When I visited Spain last year, everybody liked my performance. I felt no different there,” said Asha minutes after her performance. She took a break to feed her baby and came back for a chat. “Ours is a dying culture. We are not able to generate enough money to sustain throughout the year. I wish there were more festivals like this so that we can also pass on our traditions to the next generation. In today’s day and age, nobody wants to be a lone traveller in search of food and money,” she said.
If Karen lugo’s sensuality won a million hearts, the ladies’ man turned out to be award-winning Flamenco dancer and choreographer Daniel Navarro Munoz. The tall and lean guy happily posed for selfies after each of his performances. “I have come to India for the first time and I’m just loving it,” he told us in his broken English. On our request, managing and artistic director of the festival, Roberto Nieddu, happily agreed to translate the conversation. “We speak different languages but in the end, it is so easy because we all understand the language of music. I have been here for a week for rehearsals and our rhythm is so natural. When I do Flamenco, my body dances as well as acts like an instrument,” he said.
Flamenco dancers are admirers of beats and rhythm and get naturally attracted to different instruments. “As a dancer, I’m always open for inspirations. When I first saw a Khartal, I jumped off my feet. I wanted to know more about that sound. Dance is always about research, new movements and sounds. The moment I saw Kalbelias performing, I decided to assimilate their trademark hand movements,” he said. Male Flamenco dance is more about masculinity and power while women dancers exude beauty and femininity. But overall, “it’s about personality”.
“Improvisation is really important. Flamenco has a lot to do with your inner personality and what lies within you. It’s always coming out through your performance,” said the artiste, who practises at least three hours a day when not touring. The 35-year-old performer also organises classes during his concerts and hopes to organise one in Jodhpur next year.
Another much sought-after artiste was legendary latin jazz pianist Chano Dominguez who also concluded the festival with a rocking concert. “For me to play here is very exciting. Rajasthani musicians are amazing and this kind of collaboration is new for me. When you start to play with musicians from other territories, you have to be adaptive and alert. The spirit of music must come out. Rajasthani music is naturally close to Flamenco music,” he said.
Born in Cadiz in 1960, Chano started playing Flamenco guitar around age of eight before moving on to the piano. But all these years, he was not exposed to Indian music until he took part in the maiden show of this festival. All he knew were “Ravi Shankar and Zakir Hussain”. “I have always heard about Indian music but it was last year that I got my hands on it. During my next visit, I want to go to south and learn tabla and sitar. I also want to learn ragas,” he said.
He also hopes to cut an album with local artistes. “It will be too early to commit to it but if I come back here again, I might like to create something with local artistes here.”
photos Pankaj Kumar