Angela Paljor talks to Sunil Sethi and various designers about the mileage corporates are providing the fashion industry
The 30th edition of India Fashion Week saw a varied range of designs from the ones dedicated to the colour black and others using their outfits to deliver the message of tribal revolts in India as their inspiration. Designer Payal Jain feels that designers have been more experimental and daring this season, with colour, fabric and texture. “Also, brands which are established have developed a strong handwriting, which clearly defines their buyer profile and makes it easier for buyers to identify them,” shares Jain, who showcased her collection, Forbidden love, which was an ode to Frida; the woman, the painter, the magical surrealist, the revolutionary, the lover, the lonely soul! “I have been inspired by her life and work for over a decade and she resides deep within my subconsciousness. Her vibrant usage of colour, vivid interpretation of emotions, stark expression of pain, unfulfilled romance; physical and emotional trauma touches the deepest core of one’s heart. I feel like I have been drawn into the love, life and struggles of Frida, as she lived half a century ago,” Jain adds.
While designer Samant Chauhan feels that there is a definite direction the designers are working towards but everyone has been working on various themes —”be it silhouettes or the cloth.” Chauhan also showcased his collection, The White Canvas, on the first day of the Indian Fashion Week which was a bridge between the Middle ages and a time when you look up to the star and can’t look away. Chauhan shares, “As a designer, the confusion between magic and wisdom has become my muse. I seek to bridge the gap between the two. If you look closely at the flowers that I have painted, they are unique and I have created my own prints. Because this is what renaissance makes one do — create and create boldly.”
Jain says, “There has been a great turnout of buyers at the fashion week and this has steadily increased over the years. We have had a lot of interest from the US and Middle Eastern buyers. There are many Indian store buyers too from tier two and three cities, which we plan to start stocking with.”
With the world economy growing at a slower pace and a thinner chunk of buyers who come the Middle East, designer Samant Chauhan feels that “the number of buyers has definitely increased, which shows there is an emergent crowd. People who have never been a part of the week have contributed this time. And for designers like us who work on different products, it’s a really good time to capitalise upon a new demographic.
Designer Suneet Varma, who celebrated his 30 years of couture, feels that the clientele has changed over the years. “They are more educated and aware of the fashion trends. It’s essential to cater to their demands and create products which are more versatile and agree with the concept of mix and match. For instance, a shawl should be equally complementary when worn with ponchos, anarkalis and even pants.”
FDCI’s president Sunil Sethi feels that there is not much difference in volumes of buyers. “This has become the Mecca for all the domestic buyers. So, I think it is important for everybody to come to the fashion week as it provides a platform showcasing the products of hundred designers. It becomes easy to pick and the ranges differ and so do the styles — it could be Western or ethnic. But there is something for all.”
Another major aspect of this year’s fashion week was the corporate sectors sponsoring the shows. Talking about the kind of effect it has on the fashion industry, Jain says, “Corporate sponsors add a lot of value. They take care of event and take pressure off then designer. It is a win-win partnership for all; the event, designer and sponsor. It adds another dimension and gives a certain sense of seriousness to the event.”
“While Amazon has gained a lot of mileage from the fashion week — becoming the face of online fashion portal which is contrary to the West where it is associated to technology and books shopping, we, designers have also gained an international platform. It is the only event where we get this kind of media and footfall,” shares Chauhan.
Sethi finds corporates a crucial part of the fashion industry. “We need all the big corporate money we can — the more we get, the easier it becomes for us. FDCI is a non profit organisation, so we are looking for sponsorship. So, the more, the merrier. The fact is that if fashion is backed by the corporate, then the industry will grow by itself,” adds Sethi.
Photos: Pankaj Kumar