The trend in wedding wear is moving towards minimalism with focus on innovative cuts and subtle colour palette, says Samiksha Raj
The lehengas and saris are here to stay and so are the traditional ‘reds’, but what defines the changing trends in wedding wear in India is a ‘fresh and contemporarised’ take on colours, fabrics and silhouettes. Brides and grooms today are definitely more experimental as compared to those of yore, they know their mind and they choose something that speaks of their personality.
In capital to raise a toast and unveil a brand new edition of India Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW), a coterie of designers was in attendance to shed light on the constantly evolving bridal market. Suneet Varma, who recently showcased his bridal collection for the NY bride overseas (read Splendid Indian Closet 2014) is of the view that the bridal market in India cannot be overlooked and various current associations like the IBFW show how important it is. “I have been in the business for 26 years and I can tell that it’s getting bigger and better. It’s also important that the bridal market has its own show because if one showcases a bridal collection in a fashion week, it either gets lost or incongruous,” he says
Speaking about the transformations in bridal wear, he adds, “Today brides come with specific requirements. I recently had a bride who wanted a ‘pink’ which no one has ever seen. Hence, the approach is very individualistic and we as designers have to cater to their needs and expectations. lately, I would say, the brides need something very toned down, embellished yet very elegant.” The designer who wishes to restore the lost glory of Shekhawati, a historical Rajasthani region, will be using it as an inspiration and backdrop for IBFW ‘14. He shares that there will be some very interesting silhouettes in the collection and he has used a lot of block prints and tried to re-interpret old techniques like badla-mukaish works.
Raghavendra Rathore feels the traditional Banarsi saris for brides and bandhgalas, achkans, sherwanis for grooms will always be classic choices, but, what is changing currently in wedding wear is the technique, the use of fabrics, embellishment with swarosvki crystals and the colour palette. “Garments are more structured now. A new breed of customers has emerged who do not want their marriage in India and hence they look for globally impactful ensembles. Destination weddings have impacted the wedding trousseau a lot. The wedding couple today is looking for exquisitely crafted garments that reflect international trends, yet are rooted in tradition,” says Rathore. The designer has ventured into jewellery design for grooms.
Designer Jyotsna Tiwari, another regular at IBFW, points at the reincarnation of saris and anarkalis and many newer styles penetrating the bridal wear section.
“Bridal is one segment where everybody has their own taste, so there are all sorts of trends. Traditional will always be in demand. But today there’s a lot of fusion happening in bridal wear. Anarkalis weren’t supposed to be floor-length; they were to be teamed with churidars or pyjamas. But, today they have almost become gowns. And same is the case with saris. We now have pre-stitched saris, there are now sari-gowns,” comments Jyotsna who will be showcasing a collection titled Under the Stars at IBFW. She emphasises on volume in outfits but “overall there’ll be lightness in terms of colours and fabrics reflecting the romantic theme of the range.”
The sixth edition of IBFW will be held from 7-10th August at DlF Emporio, Vasant Kunj. Designer Tarun Tahiliani will kick-off the event with his bridal collection while designer JJ Valaya will close the fashion soiree. Designers Ashima and leena Singh are all set to recreate the magic of Arabian Nights fantasy through their collection. The range will include full circular lehengas, ghararas with back trails, kurtis, saris and odhnis. The colour palette, patterns and embellishment will be inspired by the Islamic art and architecture. Ashima says, “Today the outfits appear voluminous but actually are diaphanous. We can also see a lot of layering and intricate weaves and embroidery.” Young designer Nainika Karan informs that her collection will be modern and West-inspired, she says, “Young brides today are on a lookout for stylish and risqué ensembles for reception and other wedding-related functions. Therefore one can see a lot of cocktail dresses and gowns making way in the bridal market which may not be included in the trousseau or worn on the wedding day, but are definitely in demand.”