Banarasi saris with Kashmiri and Marori borders were the highlights of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s show. The designer relied heavily on his established work rather than getting out of the box, says Samiksha Raj
The whistle of an engine, the vintage paintings and trunks, the interiors of a luxury train with a man reading a book, a couple sipping wine and a lady engaged in conversation. In between, men and women walked in elaborate outfits. This was a scene from designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s couture show, which was inspired by the Mughal emperor Akbar’s city Ferozabad. Rooted in his idea of creating garments having international styling with an Indian soul and using Indian textiles in a modern context, Sabyasachi’s collection was yet another of his masterpiece. As many as 63 stunningly crafted creations of the designer — bespoke ensembles for women and some out-of-the-box outfits for men - were showcased, oozing out his finesse in texturing, detailing, fabrics and techniques. The range was subtle, chic and subdued. For women, there were saris, kurtas, ghararas, churidars, floor-sweeping long coats, lehengas and trousers. Add-ons like peplum jackets, Pashmina shawls and scarves well accentuated the look. The designer experimented with exquisite shades like tuscan peach, duck egg blue, old rose pink, Ferozabad pink and green, Hyderabad pink and Burma red in addition to the usual beiges and blacks. The khadi was amalgamated with tulle, taffeta, canvas, poplin, velvet and chiffon. Nonetheless, the clothes looked little repetitive and reminiscent of his past collections.
The range of Banarasi saris with Kashmiri and Marori borders in the collection was Sabya’s testimony to these native regions. The couturier’s deft piece of work in the hand embroidery — zardozi (Agra and old lucknow zardozi) and poshak, appliqué work, Afghan crewel work, thread work and burned zardozi cut work lent interesting intricacies to the collection. The long jackets, saris, lehengas and kurtis were also encrusted with semi-precious stones, hand-cut bugle beads, parsis and crystals. The cynosure of all eyes was the bedazzling black velvet lehenga embroidered in vintage Muslim zardozi, teamed with a canvas blouse. Also seen in the collection were inspirations from the ancient and medieval ages of the West- flapper style dress, Renaissance period coats and Paradiso waistcoat. The designer who also forayed into menswear in 2009 had also explored with hand-block printed canvas and khadi bandhgalas and angrakha, brocade crop trousers, gabardine trousers, Banarasi sleeveless Nehru jackets and sherwanis, patchwork blazer, printed shirts and breeches, embellished with 18 carat gold buttons. The floral printed trousers and bandhgalas in vibrant hues of peach were quite a revelation in menswear. A collection that appeared grotesque was easy on the eye of the beholder.
The quasi showstopper
Supporting and cheering for his close friend in the front row was actress Rani Mukherjee. This was probably her first visit after her marriage to director Aditya Chopra. Rani seemed to be adhering to the theme of the show. She turned up in a beige katha sari draped over a three-fourth sleeved blouse with a plunging neckline. The two red roses adorning her pretty, messy bun gelled well with her look. Rani was undoubtedly Sabyasachi’s muse as she did most of the talking on behalf of the designer because of his ill health. “I feel really emotional seeing his collection. I hope that’s a good thing. I really enjoyed watching his collection. One could see the hard work, the blood and sweat he has put into every outfit. Every show of Sabyasachi is different,” said the actress describing the show. Rani’s wedding lehenga was also designed by Sabyasachi. “It had to be Sabya,” exclaimed the actress. She was awestruck by his couture collection and had also asked the designer to lend her some for the promotions of her forthcoming film Mardaani. “I was telling Sabya that I would be sporting his outfits for Mardaani’s promotions. He is like my brother and good friend,” said Rani, who has worn his collection in films like Babul and laaga Chunari Mein Daag.