Asia breaks the barrier

Asia breaks the barrier
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Making Oscar history

The film took Hollywood’s top prize on Sunday night, along with awards for best director, best international film and best screenplay. In a year dominated by period epics — 1917, Once Upon a Time ... In Hollywood, The Irishman — the film academy instead went overseas, to South Korea, to reward a contemporary and unsettling portrait of social inequality in Parasite.

True to its name, Parasite simply got under the skin of Oscar voters, attaching itself to the American awards season and, ultimately, to history. The win was a watershed moment for the Academy Awards, which has long been content to relegate international films to their own category. Multiple standing ovations greeted Bong’s several wins. “I am ready to drink tonight,” Bong said, prompting roars from the crowd. Unexpectedly called up again for best director, Bong saluted his fellow nominees, particularly Martin Scorsese, and concluded: “Now I’m ready to drink until tomorrow.”

The victory for the film — which had echoes of the surprise win by Moonlight over La La Land three years ago — came in a year when many criticised the lack of diversity in the nominees and the absence of female filmmakers. But the triumph for Parasite, the Palme d’Or-winner at last year’s Cannes Film Festival, enabled Hollywood to flip the script and signal progress, nevertheless. No Korean film had ever won an Oscar before.

In doing so, the film academy turned away another history-making event, again denying Netflix its first best-picture win despite two contenders in The Irishman and Marriage Story, and a big-spending awards campaign blitz.

South Koreans reacted with joy after the good news came as their country struggles to guard against a new virus and counter North Korea’s nuclear threat.

The film’s win made history in South Korean film industry too. The class satire is the first non-English-language film to win best picture in the 92-year history of the Academy Awards, and is the first South Korean film to ever win an Oscar.

South Korean social media were overwhelmed with congratulatory messages. Bong, Parasite and other Oscar-related news also dominated search terms throughout Monday at major internet portal sites, which had been preoccupied with the outbreak of a virus in China that has killed more than 900 people and sickened tens of thousands of others, mainly in China.

“It’s happy news, like welcome rain, to the Republic of Korea, which is depressed, stagnant and thrown into despair due to Wuhan pneumonia,” the main opposition Liberty Korea Party said in a statement. Wuhan is the Chinese city at the center of the outbreak.

President Moon Jae-in and his advisers began a regularly scheduled meeting by clapping their hands to celebrate Bong’s wins. Moon later tweeted that he is proud of Bong and his staff and “particularly grateful to them for giving courage and pride to our people who are overcoming difficulties.”

“I think this was a great opportunity to let the world know the true value of Korean movies,” said office worker Cho Sung-ho, 54. “I think it is very meaningful that the Academy Award this time has acknowledged the superior quality of Korean films.”

Actor Priyanka Chopra said that this win is a call for representation. She believes that this signals the fact that it is time for wider representation in Hollywood, beyond the cinema that only the US makes. “It’s the time of representation. As people and as entertainers. Our craft has the power to transcend borders and languages, and tonight Parasite demonstrates exactly that. Congratulations to the entire film for shattering the glass ceiling and making history as the first non-English film to win Best Picture,” she wrote on her social media.

While Parasite registered a historic win and Janelle Monae addressed the diversity issue through her opening number, the 92nd Academy Awards made way for new faces and opinions to emerge and take the limelight

The Oscars closed the awards season in style, with statement necklaces and classic gowns, traditional tuxedos and some young rule-breakers. In a milestone win that instantly expanded the awards’ horizons, Bong Joon Ho’s masterfully devious class satire Parasite became the first non-English language film to win best picture in the 92-year history of the Academy Awards.

The prom king gets his crown

This we know to be true: If Hollywood is high school, the Oscars is prom night. And Brad Pitt has always been the prom king, missing only his actual crown.

The much-admired actor, finally winning his first acting Oscar for his sly, knowing performance in Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood, grew emotional as he looked back at his fairytale rise to Hollywood stardom, beginning with a combustively sexy performance in “Thelma & Louise” nearly three decades ago. “Once upon a time in Hollywood. Ain’t that the truth!” he said, misty-eyed.

Zellweger completes comeback with best-actress Oscar win

Renée Zellweger completed a Hollywood comeback for the ages by winning the best actress award for her role as Judy Garland in Judy. Written off during a six-year hiatus from acting that ended in 2016, Zellweger returned to claim her second Oscar after 16 years. “If only I could stand up straight, I was shaking so much,” Zellweger said as she walked offstage. “Oh my word.”

Time to come alive

As the very first person to take the stage, Monae set the tone when she plainly addressed the diversity issue in her opening number. “It’s time to come alive, because the Oscars is so white, it’s time to come alive!” she sang. Her performance directly referenced films and actors who’d been snubbed in the nominations and also the missing female directors. “I’m so proud to stand here as a black, queer artist telling stories,” Monae said. “Happy Black History Month.”

Missing: A certain reproductive organ

Diversity — both racial and gender — was also a major topic of the “non-monologue” given by “non-hosts” Chris Rock and Steve Martin. (Like last year, the show famously went hostless.) Rock quipped pointedly that actor Mahershala Ali had two Oscars, but “you know what that means when the cops pull him over? Nothing.” Martin noted that among the directing nominees, something seemed to be missing. “Vaginas?” replied Rock.

A first for indigenous people

An emotional highlight of the night was Taika Waititi’s win for best adapted screenplay for the anti-hate themed Jojo Rabbit. Waititi, from New Zealand, became the first Oscar winner of Maori descent. He dedicated his victory “to all the indigenous kids of the world who want to do art and dance and write stories. We are the original storytellers, and we can make it here as well.”

Later, as a presenter, Waititi took the stage and noted the Academy was gathering “on the ancestral lands of the Tongva, Tataviam and the Chumash.”

And for disabled actors

When The Peanut Butter Falcon star Zack Gottsagen appeared to present in the live-action short category, it was a first for both him and for the Oscars. Gottsagen was the first presenter with Down syndrome, and he received a standing ovation after intoning the familiar line: “And the Oscar goes to ...”

And speaking of voices

When Joaquin Phoenix won, he spoke about “the opportunity to use our voice for the voiceless.” He added that he saw a commonality in the different causes people in the Hollywood community fight for. “Whether we’re talking about gender inequality or racism or queer rights or indigenous rights or animal rights, we’re talking about the fight against the belief that one nation, one race, one gender or one species has the right to dominate, control and use and exploit another with impunity,” he said. He also apologised for past behaviour. “I’ve been a scoundrel in my life,” he said. “I’ve been selfish, I’ve been cruel at times, hard to work with. I’m grateful that so many of you in this room have given me a second chance.”

Eminem, take two

Also getting a second chance was rapper Eminem, who stunned the crowd by showing up for a surprise performance of Lose Yourself — 17 years after it won best original song from the film 8 Mile.

Backstage: Dazed winners and sweet reunions

 A whole other show happens just a few feet to the right of the main Oscars stage in the wings where presenters gather, ecstatic winners get a moment to process what just happened and the production staff stays busy making sure everything is going to plan. Here are a few moments that the cameras didn’t catch at the 92nd Academy Awards.

“WHOSE IS THIS?”

Joaquin walked offstage in a bit of a daze, with tears still in his eyes from his emotional acceptance speech. Jane Fonda, waiting to present the best picture award, was among the few familiar faces in the wings for the Joker star who stopped to give her a hug and a kiss.

Phoenix looked down at the golden statuette in his hand and said, “Whose is this?” The woman escorting him to his next stop said gently, “It’s yours.”

STEVE MARTIN GETS READY

Steve Martin made sure to get to the wings extra early for his and Chris Rock’s show opener Sunday but his promptness also meant he had a little time to kill.

He offered support to Janelle Monae’s background performers. “You’ll do a good job,” Martin said with a thumbs up. “But you’re supposed to say break a leg.” And he even took a moment to allow himself to enjoy the performance, watching on the monitors with a big smile. But he quickly turned back to thinking about his imminent moment on stage. “As long as I have my opening line, I’m fine,” he said, continuing to pace.

A breakdown of the gowns, bling and beauty

A look at fashion highlights from the big night:

The gowns

Scarlett Johansson, Renée Zellweger, Charlize Theron, Cynthia Erivo and Regina King served up standout looks.

King’s pale pink Versace with just the right amount of silver embellishment was a flawless fit. Johansson’s Champagne-hued Oscar de la Renta was a strapless wonder with strand details at the top. Theron’s black Dior Haute Couture offered one shoulder up and one down, along with a high side slit. Erivo shut it down in a white custom Atelier Versace one-shoulder bustier gown. Zellweger didn’t disappoint in a white symmetrical body hugger from Armani with one long sleeve.

“Regina King and Cynthia Erivo really did the ballgown right,” said Justine Carreon, senior market editor for Elle.com. “Cynthia Erivo had those kind of modern paniers on the hips. Regina had a pink princess moment, but it still had a very modern neckline.” Nobody took any big risks, she said, though there were some statements made.

Young Hollywood didn’t disappoint

Janelle Monae stunned in silver Ralph Lauren with a hood, long sleeves and about 170,000 Swarovski crystals. Florence Pugh wore a tiered gown in welcome green from Louis Vuitton. Billie Eilish donned fuzzy, oversize Chanel jackets and pants to go with her bright green and black hair. Timothée Chalamet detoured from a slew of classic black tuxedos in a custom Prada navy gabardine jacket with satin racing stripes and matching trousers.

“She always brings such drama to the carpet in such an elegant way,” E! style correspondent Zanna Roberts Rassi said of Monae’s look. Monae, along with Eilish and Billy Porter (in a golden feather top and orange ball skirt), show trends aren’t everything. The trend was to be yourself.”

“It’s less about trends. It’s more about showing who they really are. Billie Eilish and Billy Porter tend to just stick to their guns. When it comes to fashion, they don’t let themselves be confined to any box. It’s true that Eilish loves a logo, but that’s true of her generation, from Gucci to Louis Vuitton,” she said.

Vintage represented, but just a tad

Margot Robbie hit the carpet in Chanel from the brand’s spring 1994 haute couture collection. It was a black fitted bustier gown with detached sleeves that practically touched the ground. A pearl pendant was front and center.

The bling

There was an abundance of statement necklaces on women (Mindy Kaling, Julia Louis, Zazie Beetz) but there was also a show of “gents jewelry,” said Claibourne Poindexter, jewelry specialist.

From Porter in multiple bracelets and rings from Swarovski to men bringing back the lapel brooch (Chalamet’s vintage Cartier), “there is no doubt that men are embracing jewels for the first time in a long time,” he said.

Among other favourites: Anthony Ramos in a long necklace and lapel brooch worn with a white suit. As for the women, Greta Gerwig wore diamonds and emerald from Bulgari, as did Beetz. Theron wore a diamond drop necklace by Tiffany & Co. weighing in at more than 20 carats. Louis-Dreyfus wore more than 60 carats set in platinum from Harry Winston. Vintage represented in a small way, thanks to Rebel Wilson’s gold and diamond double row necklace by Pomellato to Chalamet’s 1950s ruby and diamond clip, Poindexter said.

“Over the last several years we’ve seen a consistent increase in gentlemen who wear jewels as a great way to diversify their style on what is arguably a more difficult wardrobe to show individuality in,” he said. Gerwig’s emerald beads and diamonds has her “following in the footsteps of many powerful women in film,” Poindexter said. “From Elizabeth Taylor in her own Bulgari emerald and diamond jewels purchased on a visit to the Bulgari boutique with Richard Burton to Monica Vitti posing for Karen Radkai in a full suite of oval shaped emerald and diamond jewelry in 1963, Bulgari has had a long reputation of being a favorite among the film and jet set,” Poindexter said.

The beauty

The Oscars are often a parade of nudes, sheers or pale pinks, especially in nail polish, said Cat. “So I was excited to see so many actresses go for a bolder look. Black nail polish in particular reigned supreme, with a variety of cool iterations,” she said.      

List of Awardees

Best picture: Parasite

Best actor: Joaquin Phoenix, Joker

Best actress: Renée Zellweger, Judy

Best director: Bong Joon Ho, Parasite

Best supporting actor: Brad Pitt, Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood

Best supporting actress: Laura Dern, Marriage Story

Animated feature: Toy Story 4

Documentary feature: American Factory

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