In a tête-à -tête with Tanmaya Das, ace fashion designer Anju Modi shares her thoughts on the evolution of the Indian fashion industry
In the year–2020, the fashion industry was trying to hold back its position, as the concept of work from home (WFH) became inevitable. Most of the people started working from home. Retail shops were shut down due to the pandemic and online shopping increased to encourage social distancing. Due to cost-cutting and new responsibilities, expensive purchases were curtailed, which subsequently affected the fashion industry.
Now that the world is slowly returning to normalcy, we have all started to regain and reshape ourselves in the new economic sphere. Renowned designer Anju Modi speaks of the challenges that the Indian fashion industry is facing currently.
She says, “The designers have to come forward in terms of competitive clothing. You use Indian handloom fabric to make it an anti-fit loose dress or a simple shift dress. It is more comfortable as it absorbs sweat. So, I make dresses that can be worn at home all day long. However, for now, designing competitive clothing is a challenge.”
Also, it is undeniable that clothes shape our personality, bringing out the best version of ourselves. Our clothes and jewellery have always been inspired by our cultures and traditions. On this note, she says, “As humans started to get civilised, presenting oneself was always a prime psychological and emotional point within a human being. Even our kings and royal families were all extremely conscious of how they should be wearing their clothes, the jewellery, turbans, attire, shoes, and/or makeup.” Moreover, she adds that the psychology of presenting oneself lies at the core of human existence.
On being asked about her fascination with historical characters, she points out that everything has been shaped by history. She expresses, “We get inspired by classical music, 500-year-old Amir Khusrow’s poetry, and Mughal influences in our craft. So, I feel that in today’s generation, our lifestyle is a reference to previous cultural influences. However, we need to reinvent and make garments that are wearable and relevant in today’s time. So, as a designer, I am interpreting our Indian designer traditions and culture.”
During the 90s, people were clueless about fashion. Since childhood, Anju used to be surrounded by several art forms, and music. Such an atmosphere created a natural inclination towards arts and designs. Afterwards, she went on to understand the culture as well as the lifestyle of weavers and their philosophy. Of all young designers, Rahul Mishra and Pero are some of her favourite brands. She shares, “My son and daughter-in-law made a promising mark in the fashion industry with their label, AMPM. They will take the craft much further.”
To her, the fashion industry in India has explored many avenues, but the real challenge is to make clothing more relevant to the modern lifestyle. “I cannot say that something is not unexplored. Everybody has worked in each region, including lehengas, cholis, anarkali, Hyderabadi and Pakistani shararas, and farshi. So, a lot of areas have already been explored. The question here is how do we take out the traditional attire and make it relevant in today’s lifestyle. Since the younger generation is fast-paced, they don’t want so much fabric and weight on themselves. One needs to select the best textile and make it into a stylish garment. So, I sincerely believe that styling garments for today’s generation is one area which needs more exploration,” she elaborates.
Our workspaces influence our productivity levels so we need to choose the elements in our workspaces wisely. On being asked about redefining home spaces during the pandemic, she observes, “Everyone has become a home-conscious person. In this endeavour, I collaborated with an interior designer, Rajiv Goel who is providing workspaces at home. People have created their own WFH spaces. They have all the required gadgets, a library, and books. WFH has become a part of our lifestyle in these uncertain times.”
Currently, she is engaged with Sanjay Leela Bansali for his first-ever web series, Heera Mandi. Simultaneously, there are several projects lined up that have been experiencing some hiccups due to the Covid. “The pandemic has taught us a huge lesson. It has given us time to rethink and reinvent ourselves. Our perspectives on life, relationships, and emotions have changed. So, my only message is that one should not lose one’s equilibrium again. Relax! Enjoy the music, dance, and all the classical textiles. Be an art lover!” she concludes with a wide smile.