As the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week kicks off digitally, designer Leena Singh tells Ayushi Sharma that her collection, Umme Rabab, represents the serenity and the divinity of a woman
What would you say about the Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week (LMIFW) 2020 under the shadow of the Coronavirus pandemic? How is it different?
The India Fashion Week has always been a wonderful affair. However, this year, it has been a learning experience as well as a challenging one for all of us. The restricted movement and social distancing has given the industry a new format — a digital space with grand virtual sets and immersive technologies that will surely build a bridge between the physical and digital spaces. At ‘Ashima Leena’ (AL), we have been working meticulously to create our collection and have re-engineered our workspace where social distancing and all safety guidelines are being followed.
LMIFW 2020 is different in many aspects. There are more details this time. The digital presentation helps a brand to convey a story and also becomes accessible to a wider audience, increasing the reach of brands as well as designers.
What were the underlying challenges while holding a grand show like this online?
Well, what poses itself as a challenge today becomes a norm tomorrow. Curating a grand show like this online for the first time was certainly very challenging. However, with the supportive and hardworking team of the FDCI, the entire experience has been creaseless. As we were trying to adapt to using technology to showcase our designs, it also became more inspiring to watch how the show came to life with various added elements — visuals, music, videography — all in sync to create the magic for us. With key elements in mind that tell the story of Ashima Leena such as styling, jewellery, choreography and make-up, we have created our digital show that showcases ‘the art of textile crafting’ with signature AL styles.
What do you think is the new face of fashion?
The new face of fashion is definitely digital. New formats have been re-imagined, the entire concept of fashion is being revisited due to the pandemic. I believe with less physical contact, the best way to reach out to our customers is online.
What have you brought to the table this time? Can you take us through your collection?
This collection is a tribute to the skilled craftsmen and weavers of our rich textile industry who are struggling for their livelihood today. We have been working with them for the last three decades. The unseen hands of the weavers who have worked relentlessly for decades together have helped bring the brand where it is today. Their support has truly been immeasurable.
This showcase of our Couture Collection 2020 is titled, Umme Rabab, which represents the serenity and the divinity of a woman, who is known for her beauty, eloquence and wisdom. She proved to be the epitome of a modern maharani (queen), who is strong-willed and dedicated but doused in softness and femininity. The collection combines delicate hand embroidery in the form of meticulously curated textiles with classic AL Maharani silhouettes. Through our interpretation, we aspire to reflect a poetic flow in volume, layers and impeccable garment construction, which characterises the unique beauty of Umme Rabab.
The art of textile crafting is the signature style of my label. It’s a magical mix of different kinds of weaves put together to create breathtaking patterns. The collection comprises of re-interpreted, lengthened jackets that can be worn with any of the classic silhouettes, peplums, circular lehengas, appliqué delicate sarees with jewelled tassels with chanderi and brocade-woven Odhni along with antique gold fabrics. We have used a million tiny hand-embroidered beads and intricately-appliquéd brocades that highlight our legacy of fine craftsmanship. Our brilliant selection of hues transform texture into a chromatic scale of magical colours, exuding an old-world charm. Mustard, muted turmeric, soft dusky pink, ivory, pomegranate red, iron black, beaten gold, bold pinks, deep emerald, sand-like beige are some of the shades which come together to create the colour palette of this diverse collection.
The fabric has a blend of many hues and colours, which renders an inimitable uniqueness to the outfits. The collection has interplays of dexterous applique work with brocade fabrics, delicate French knots and detailed zardozi embroidery.
Given a massive crisis like this year, how do you think the fashion industry can be better prepared to face such challenges in the future?
Today, as the world is learning to live in new ways, there are many who are struggling and trying to cope with the changes this pandemic has brought to all our lives. One of the most affected sections has been of the karigars (craftsworkers) and weavers of our country. We are now supporting them in every possible way. We stand in solidarity with them during these tough times. There are millions of looms across India that are engaged in weaving cotton, silk and other natural fibers to bring out the traditional beauty of India’s spectacular heritage. Many generations of weavers have been dependent on this art of weaving and for decades it has provided livelihood to their families. Weavers and specialised textile craftsmen of our country have helped in keeping alive Indian heritage with various techniques of weaving and textile crafting. As we face challenges, we are also given an opportunity to reinvent and reimagine new and improved ways of working. I feel whenever there will be a challenge or such an obstacle, we will find ways again to face them and to work around them as it is imperative to support one another in difficult times like these.
(The show is scheduled on October 16.)