Shantanu & Nikhil’s collection,The Resurgence, is all about recreating the grandeur which brides dreamt of before the pandemic, simply because luxury is timeless and will continue to be prized by Indians. By Chahak Mittal
After days of uncertainty and nothingness due to the pandemic-induced lockdown, many are finding their own ways to rise to life again. For designers Shantanu and Nikhil, the spirit of this much-needed revival came with the FDCI India Couture Week 2020. What better than the duo’s collection, The Resurgence, could explain this?
For them, it is an ode to hope, the spirit to resurface and recommence their duties for the universe. Said Shantanu, “With an almost spiritual connotation to the capabilities of cyclic existence, the collection celebrates a renewed strength and power to adapt and #RiseAgain.”
So how does a Shantanu-Nikhil bride look like this time? Taking inspiration from the central emotion of the duo’s collection — “hope” — their bride celebrates her way towards a new, optimistic world of happiness, leaving the sorrow and uncertainty behind. Added Shantanu, “With hope, we’re moving ahead of the sorrow that has gripped the world. While we take baby steps towards normalcy, the collection reconstructs romance through fluidic drapes and godly architecture symbolic of the hope within. With this, we also celebrate a new world and our 20 years. We are reinterpreting our classics and bringing back the opulence of our journey with new sustainable practices put into place for our brides. We take pride in our artisans and their craftsmanship. This season we did revisit a lot of metallic embroidery, Goth applique and the classic zardozi, all creating neo-luxe bridal looks.”
For Nikhil, newer times call for newer actions and with the blurring lines between technology and fashion in the new normal, it felt “fitting” to have showcased the duo’s Ceremonial Couture ‘20 Collection, virtually. He added, “It is an exciting and unusual experience and feels great to be a part of an ecosystem that is constantly innovating and connecting with a larger audience every now and then.”
Shot at The Roseate Hotels and Resorts, Delhi Aerocity, its architectural design added to the collection’s raw portrayal. The anti-trend aesthetics, the structure and the linearity as a signature were kept intact. For the duo, “this digital model of a showcase definitely democratised fashion and integrated with it a cutting-edge customer experience. We have tried to use this platform creatively to showcase a film-like presentation than just a blatant runway showing.”
So has it been pivoted around the wedding perspective only? Nikhil said, “In this pandemic, one thing is very clear that design will become a lot more precious, sustainable, valuable and yet, luxurious. We have always been strong advocates of anti-trend couture, where the focus is on neo-shapes, silhouettes, minimalism and of course, the wearer. The brides of today are looking at timeless and classic vintage with hints of contemporary lightness.”
To represent the strength we need to leave behind the melancholy and fight on, the collection was given a metallic touch. The gold and sheen done in hand-woven silks and brocades represented a beacon of hope. The abundance of fluidic drapes created through light fabrics like georgette and chiffon worked in tandem to create a sense of positivity and ease, which is much needed at a time like this.
Talking about whether the festive market is outdoing the wedding market this year, Shantanu said, “India has always been a country of celebrations and there is nothing more celebratory than an Indian wedding. Hence, the demand for heavy and glorious couture will remain unchanged. With several weddings being postponed, the new wedding season has brought with it double excitement and the brides will not compromise on their wedding outfits now. The voluminous ball gowns, our signature drapes, anti-trend styles and cuts are still our brides’ go-to apparel for their dream wedding.”
He added that their brides are looking for the same grandeur as it was earlier but they are now far more emotional about things they do in their lives. Hence, buying behaviour is now hedonistic in nature and design is paramount.
While the designers tweak their approaches a little to showcase couture, they feel going digital has made every fashionista their front row client. Nikhil said, “We have opted for digital launch in the past as well and it has helped us connect to a larger and newer audience. In the wake of the ongoing pandemic, when the entire world is relying on the digital platforms to keep themselves busy and run their businesses, there is no other medium bigger than this to present fashion to people. Hence, the challenge now at hand would be to translate the grandeur of the physical runway into a virtual one, making it as alive and experiential as the former where everyone will have a front row access.”