At the risk of gushing, the newly opened joint in Hauz Khas is a café with soul, open spaces, large windows, clean décor and great food, says Navneet Mendiratta
It’s got to do with the ambience, the good vibes a place sends out – happy and carefree. And then the food takes over… this is how I would sum up my first impression of the newly opened Smoke House Deli (SHD) at Hauz Khas village, Delhi’s very own urban space. But then how many eateries do you have here that offer a view of the 13th century lake, with pristine white walls celebrating the area’s history, complete with a QR code to allow you to read up more on themIJ
This one takes you back into time and back. Nestled in an area dotted with ruins dating back eight centuries, when it supposedly held the position of an important centre of art and culture, it’s a characteristic that so holds true of the place even today. Perhaps then, it is a fitting tribute that all that the area has seen in terms of history, be etched in sketches (done free hand with a permanent marker! An interior styling so typical of the Smoke House brand) —of the era bygone and one we are living in… mixing motifs from the Tughlaq Sultanate and the beautiful Oud, the Turkic ancestor of guitar, with the sign of present times, and with equal ease.
I made my way through a winding alley, to get to the café. Cobbled pathway lined with small shops selling beautiful ware, giving an impression of some arty village in a distant European land. The deli has two entrances with clear signages marking directions. I didn’t have trouble following them.
I have been visiting other outlets of Smoke House in Vasant Kunj and recently Khan Market, but they didn’t prepare me for this. The décor is clean – white of the walls reflecting the light with sketches in black bringing out the contrast. Though I was tempted to take a seat in the outdoors, the humidity in the air insisted otherwise. Happy carefree chatter of the guests greeted me inside, instantly putting me at ease. This one’s certainly not stuffy.
The menu, in keeping with the cafe’s character, is equally no-fuss, breezy and stylish at the same time. By the way, it’s a great breakfast place as a friend who resides nearby, tells me – eggs being a specialty. Just choose how you want them, you get them — skillet fried, omelettes, scrambled, poached and Kedgeree.
Mind you, I’m only spelling out the broader options. That being evening and us in mood for a nice leisurely meal, I skipped past an elaborate selection of soups, sandwiches, burgers and bagels, to open with fresh salads. My two favourites — The Greek Smoked Chicken and Asparagus for me — jumped out of the pages and I ordered them right away. The salad in both was fresh, crispy and moist just right. Other condiments enhancing flavours and making sure one did not taste just like the other. Kudos to Executive Chef Shamsul Wahid.
The appetisers were a selection of melt in the mouth signature preparations of lamb Kibbeh and Chicken Satay. I would have happily ordered a repeat, had I no plans of moving to the mains.
My chicken-loving partner didn’t think twice before saying a yes to the Peri Peri Chicken (smoked chicken rubbed with peri peri and smoked pimento reduced on a bed of boiled potato cuts). It’s a dish you can’t go wrong with. As for me, I chose chilli crusted fish flavoured with thyme on a bed of turmeric risotto. Divine.
The most difficult bit came towards the end, when Chef Wahid spoilt us for choice . I’d be honest to admit my liking for chocolate. And so Flourless Chocolate Fudge and Roasted almond Ganache Torte won hands down. To be fair, cheesecake lovers must try SHD’s Philly Plum Cheesecake.
“There’s a scope to accommodate individual flavours and we constantly seek to re-invent,” said Chef Wahid. “The idea is to serve all-day options with hearty fare. We learn and improve everyday,” he added humbly. The deli meets all parameters. There are nine outlets of Smoke House pan India and growing. Its a natural progression.