A backpacker's diary

Nepal is a fairy-tale land of stunning beauty and forested hiking trails. So we had read and planned to explore it myself someday. The day arrived this July and though a little wary at first following the devastating earthquake, we kept my date with the land of my dreams. We landed at Nepal’s Thibhuvan airport on the first day of the month and were welcomed by a steady drizzle. The city was bustling with life. It was difficult to believe that this was the city that was rocked by the killer quake just two months ago. It dispelled our worst fears of a flattened, standstill Nepal. The buildings, though not more than two-storeyed, stood majestically tall with no signs of any cracks or other tell-tale signs in the places we traveled. After checking in at a hotel in Thamel in the heart of Kathmandu we drove to the famous Pashupatinath Temple barely five kilometres away. 

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Pashupathinath Temple

The centuries old temple, a marvel of Hindu architecture, had miraculously survived the massive 7.9 magnitude earthquake that flattened world heritage sites like  Dharahara tower and Darbar Square on April 25.There were not many visitors to the temple, a world heritage site. But our guide informed us that before the quake it was always chock-a-block with people. For a Hindu, a visit to the temple dedicated to lord Shiva, is considered a must. 

The temple built in pagoda style with a two-tier golden roof had exquisitely carved silver doors. Other buildings in the complex, too, had artistically designed windows which had stood the test of time.A lot of elderly people roamed about, some feeding the monkeys others chanting mantras.The Panch Deval (five temples) complex, which was once was a holy shrine, now serves as a shelter for destitute old people. Behind the temple flows the Bagmati, beside which are the cremation grounds. We could see many pyres burning. 

Boudhanath 

Our next destination was Boudhanath or Bauddha. Not far from Pashupatinath, this Buddhist stupa is built on an octagonal base and contains inset prayer wheels. The largest single Chhorten in the world, it is decorated with gold and surrounded by prayer wheels, monasteries, homes of lamas (Buddhist priests), shops et al.

The stupa towers up towards the sky, draped in fluttering prayer flags. We were not able to climb up the stairs as renovation work was on progress. Tibetans crowded the place. They could be seen circumambulating the stupa and spinning the prayer wheels. A Buddhist monk told us that the mantra Om, mani padme hom needed to be chanted just once and the wheel rotated for a wish to be fulfilled.The shrine closes by 5 pm. So we headed for our hotel. Next morning we had to travel to Chitwan from Kathmandu by road. 

Rendezvous in the jungle

It was a little over a four-hour journey. A cool breeze blew as the sun played hide and seek behind the hills. The hillside villages were reverberating with life. Some huts were perched at high aptitudes and we wondered how they commuted. Alongside flowed the Trishuli river. We followed the river till it met with two others and turned into the longest flowing river Narayani. It was breathtaking. We spotted some adventurous rafters despite the inclement weather. Our guide informed it was not unsafe to raft in the Trishuli river even during monsoon. Though not many venture during the season.

Nestled in the hills, Nepal has many rivers, but electricity is scarce. There are long hours of load shedding.  After driving past many kilometers of hills, plants and undulating land we halted for lunch at Mugling. Nepal boasts of 600 indigenous plant families and 339 species of exotic orchids.We opted for Nepali cuisine better known as Thakali. The delightful course — a mix of vegetables, lentil soup, chicken and dhau or curd — is light on the stomach.

By tea time, we arrived in Chitwan and visited the Chitwan National Park. The park encompasses an area of 932 sq km and is a world  heritage site. A canoe ride and a visit to the Elephant breeding center were on the agenda for the day.We headed to the jungle in an open jeep and then went canoeing in the Buddhi Rapti river. We spotted many crocodiles. “Some are dangerous,” our guide warned, “while others are harmless.” After rowing down a few feet, we spotted quite a few kingfishers. The orange and blue winged birds looked beautiful against the very green backdrop of the jungle. We also spotted a one-horned bill. The place a paradise for bird watchers.

Elephant Breeding Centre

On the other side of the river, barely three kilometres from Sauraha was the Elephant Breeding Centre. We were welcomed by a dancing elephant who kept shaking and bowing its head. To the onlooker it looked as if though it was enacting a namaste pose. The Sauraha Elephant breeding center was set up in 1989 to increase the falling count of elephants, we were told. There were 2000 elephants in 1911 but by 1970 this number had dropped to around 200. Presently there 22 female elephants and a couple of cubs.

The park is covered with deciduous forest offering a wilderness of rich eco-system that includes around 600 plant species, 50 mammals, 526 birds and 49 amphibian reptiles. In the dense forest are the one-horned Rhino and Bengal tigers.The indigenous people living here are known as Tharus. They are renowned for their art and drawing. We came across some of their houses which were decorated with religious drawings denoting different phases of history and culture. The Tharu dance is quite famous. 

Jungle Safari

The next day, we left early morning for the elephant safari which involved an elephant ride into the jungle. But as we reached the Buddhi Rapti river, Ramkumari, the elephant we were travelling on, was reluctant to cross it. After a few prodding by the mahout, she stepped into the water and slowly but steadily crossed over to the other side of the river. 

Once in the dense jungle, we looked keenly through our binoculars to spot the one-horned rhino that frequents Chitwan National Park but in vain. Some tourists claim to have spotted tigers, too, but all we could find were a herd of deers who sped off at our sight.The safari comes cheap for the Nepalese citizens while visitors from SAARC nations have to cough up around `1,500 (in Nepal currency). Foreigners are charged over Rs2,000.

After an hour’s ride in the jungle, we went back to our lodge for breakfast. We then made our way out of the forest of Chitwan to lumbini, the abode of the gods. 

Holy nostalgia

We reached lumbini, the Buddhist pilgrimage centre in Rupandehi district, after a four-hour drive. The cool breeze and cloudy weather made it easier for us to explore the monasteries in the birth place of Buddha. As cars were not allowed we had to hire a few rickshaws. We covered the three kilometer distance smoothly because the place is free of traffic. However, bicycles are allowed and available on rent.

The main attraction of lumbini is the Maya Devi Temple, which marks the spot where Queen Maya Devi of Kapilavastu gave birth to Gautama Siddhartha. Also located there are the Puskarini or Holy Pond where lord Buddha’s mother took the ritual dip prior to his birth, and the remains of the Kapilvastu palace. Surrounding the temple is a sacred garden containing the pillar of Ashoka, erected to mark his visit to the holy site. 

There are many monasteries built by different countries. The ones built by the Chinese and the Germans attract a lot of visitors. The German monastery is a sight to behold. Its hand painted hallways, colourful mosaics, tall archways and high ceilings are a delight to the eyes. The Chinese monastery is another marvel of artistic design. Some monasteries are under construction.

Naturally Nepal

Our next destination was the picturesque Pokhara. It is the second largest city after Kathmandu and the second most popular tourist destination. It is considered a gateway to Nepal’s most-trekked region, and is located close to towering Himalayan mountains like Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Machhapuchhre.

Unfortunately, it was cloudy when we reached so we could not sight the Annapurna range.

Davis Falls

At Pokhara, our first halt was at Pataley Chango or Davis Falls. Mist can be seen rising as the water falls at great speed. It is said that in 1961 a trekker Devin Davis and her husband were bathing at the fall when she was washed away by the Pardi Khola (river). Since then it is known as Davis Falls.

Phewa lake

The Phewa lake, the second largest in the land-locked country, adjoins the main tourism area housing mainly hotels, restaurants and handicraft shops. It is from the banks of the lake that you can see the World Peace Pagoda. Our final stop was the Barahi Temple situated in the midst of Phewa lake. The temple’s two-storied pagoda is dedicated to the manifestation of Ajima, the protectress deity who represents women. 

Colourful boats ferry people to the temple. Huge peaks overlooked the lake full of fishes. People were seen feeding the fishes, though it is forbidden. 

We had to pay not only entry fee but also for the boat ride and life jackets. Payments are on an hourly basis the more time you spend on the lake, the more you pay. But you sure get more than your money’s worth.

Incidentally, there is an entry fee for all tourists sites as Nepal gets most of its revenue through tourism. The entry free is less for the Nepalese citizens. SAARC nations also get some concession in the fares but foreigners have to cough up more.From hills and forests to deeply spiritual cultures to Himalayan vistas, we had an experience of a life time. We completely agree with what the Nepal Tourism logo says — Once is not enough. Even after the massive destruction to life, property and heritage sites, it continues to remain as charming. 

(The writer is a New Delhi-based senior journalist)