The first Indian chef-restaurateur to get a Michelin star, Vineet Bhatia believes that combining our nation’s rich heritage and vibrant food legacy makes for the best of everything. Ayushi Sharma spoke to him about being a part of the Tasting India Symposium
How does the Tasting India Symposium initiate a dialogue on India’s gastronomic heritage and culinary tourism?
It’s a fantastic concept to have something like this as it gets plenty of people from across the country to come and discuss various issues and that’s what the industry needs — to reach not only the chefs but also the suppliers. It also gives chefs exposure and enlightens them with what’s on the market and to come and interact with. In the end it’s a journey in process. The symposium has done an amazing job in getting everybody under one roof to initiate the advocacy initiative.
What are the ways that can promote culinary tourism potential in India?
Tourism in India is on a rise and we need a lot of support from the government. It is a land of plenty with its history and heritage and culture. Food is a very important part in tourism because wherever we go we want to eat and enjoy the diverse cuisine of India, right from Rajasthan to Kanyakumari to Nagaland and Sikkim. If you combine the scenic beauty with some amazing food, there is nothing more than one needs.
What are the challenges to a sustainable food culture in India?
Education and awareness are very important. We talk about sustainability but we also need to have fair trade for farmers. They have to be looked after and given exposure. Train the people at grassroot level from farmers to people working at lower positions in hotels and pay them decent salary. The farmers must be educated about new methods and techniques.
What is your idea of the Indian cuisine? How do you think it is being appreciated by international chefs and present in the global palate?
India is a sleeping giant. It is just awakening. There is a change for sure, we have been trying to push this for many many years in London and as chefs we do seminars and workshops. When you are there even if you are not an am ambassador you are still representing India, and we try to show it in a very humble and approachable manner. It’s a misconception that Indian food is spicy and oily as that’s not the case at all. Nobody eats that on a daily basis. We have to learn to respect our culture first. The exposure and awareness has been phenomenal now with Google and the internet in place. Also the media has started appreciating what we have, which was not the case initially when I started. Journalism is very structured and constructive now.
What are some of the global food movements and revolutions today?
It’s all going back to basics in many ways — going back to flavours, good tastes and respecting which part of the world you are from. Everyone wants to eat healthy and as local as possible. We have 14 restaurants globally and we try to incorporate ingredients from that region. You have to respect sensibilities around you. You have to also support the local communities and help them earn their bread and butter.
What do you have to say about the current food culture in India?
India for the past few years has been all about molecular which had already been passed over by Europe 20 years back. It’s a phase passing by. At my restaurant a lot of dishes are inspired from home cooking and mothers’ cooking. They are about childhood memories, they bring nostalgia. If somebody eats something and that touches them, they always want to go back to that place. So for us if we can send our guests with one happy memory, our job is done. I am biased about food. I love the food that is cooked from the heart.
How has your cooking evolved over the years ?
It keeps evolving, It never stops. Also from the business point of view, you have to have that USP in order to be ahead from everybody else. Why would someone want to come to my restaurant when there are 10,000 other restaurants that are doing the same job. A lot of chefs become very complacent after a while, but what we do is we step in and change the existing.
There is no new technique, but it’s the approach towards food. Right from doing food which is very singular to deconstructing it. Now the trend is to enjoy a variety of food. I am a big fan of street food and we try bring that authentic flavours in our restaurant so that those who can’t stand on the roadside can enjoy it too.
What are some of the most successful food experiments that you have mastered ?
We always keep trying — the smoking technique from Rajasthan to samosas or making biryanis in dum. Fortunately I have travelled a lot in India because of the travel shows and I picked up a lot on the way. It’s a constant process, we never stand still.
How do you think cooking food is an art?
It is a big art form and it is also a science. You have to have the basic understanding and learn the things, and then you can learn to modify it. Everybody can cook but if you can transform basic food into something very special, its an art. There is a whole technique and understanding of variety of ingredients you use. As chefs we try to learn the food in the best way. Its not only cinematic art but it is also an art for your palate.