After a cyclone in December 1964, the Tamil Nadu Government declared Dhanushkodi unfit for human habitation. RANU JOARDAR shares how the remnants of houses, school, water tank, post office and church in the town’s ruined structures take us back to the times when the music of the hustle and bustle of people could be heard
lao Tzu, a Chinese scholar had once said, “life is a series of natural and spontaneous changes. Don’t resist them; that only creates sorrow. let reality be reality. let things flow naturally forward in whatever way they like.” These changes can take a period of time, like civilisations becoming history or they can sometimes even take just a few hours like the earthquake in Bhuj, Gujarat, and the cyclone in Dhanushkodi.
A town that is full of life one day may face the wrath of God and within a short span of time turn into rubble. Dhanushkodi is one such example. located at the south-eastern tip of Pamban Island of Tamil Nadu, it is now a town of just a few fishermen and remnants of its history. Though Dhanushkodi has been officially named a ghost town or city of the dead, it doesn’t give goosebumps. Instead, the charm of this ‘city of the dead’ will indeed make one’s heart long to come here again and again.
Dhanushkodi is about 18 miles west of Talaimannar in Sri lanka. It is the only land border between India and Sri lanka. In fact, sometimes even an SMS may pop up welcoming people to Sri lanka. This land, with just 45 metres in length on a shoal in Palk Strait, is one of the smallest land borders in the world.
Before the 1964 cyclone, there used to be a train service up to Dhanushkodi called the Boat Mail from Madras Egmore (now Chennai Egmore). The train would halt at pier on the south-eastern side of the Dhanushkodi town and from there a steamer would take the passengers to Sri lanka via Palk Strait. Now this facility is no longer there.
A short ride from Rameswaram for half an hour and this world of lost history welcomes its guests with open arms. With crossing the check post, the smooth road ends and thereby starts a 20-minute sandy thoroughfare to the Dhanushkodi village. The transport that is allowed to ply here are either small buses or four-wheel drive vehicles. Soon the remnants of dilapidated and deserted houses, school and other buildings are seen scattered here and there.
The ruins of the town don’t need any light and sound show or any special effects to tell its history. The broken structures itself take its visitors to the past when this town was full of motion and lively with its own folk; schools, temples, markets, railway officers quarters and houses. Through these ruins one can relive the night of December 22 and hear the waves hurling on the buildings.
On December 22, 1964, the sun rose as any other day in Dhanushkodi but the sunset brought doom with it. The high tidal wave took with it the whole townfolk and transformed a once busy town into a ghost town. However, devastation here has produced a unique beauty. Now, tourists throng in great numbers to this land where there is no easy transportation, no electricity and no hotels.
After the cyclone, the railway track of Dhanushkodi was swept away by a massive tidal wave along with a train having about 110 passengers and five railway staffers. Though it is believed that the train was destroyed on Pamban bridge, in reality it was washed away at the Dhanushkodi end of Pamban island. The bridge, connecting mainland India with Rameswaram Island, was also destroyed in the cyclone. Altogether, over 1,800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwellings and other structures in Dhanushkodi town were marooned in the storm. The high tidal waves moved deep onto the island and ruined the entire town.
After this calamity, the State Government declared it a ghost town, hence unfit for living. Now just a handful of fishermen live there. A memorial at Dhanushkodi reads, “A cyclone storm with high velocity winds and high tidal waves hit Dhanushkodi town from December 22, 1964 midnight to the evening of December 25, causing heavy damages and destroying the entire town.”
The village has its own story to tell. The remnants of houses, school, water tank, post office and church through its ruined structures take us back to the times when the music of the hustle and bustle of people could be heard. Even amongst the wreck, the uniqueness of the broken church stands out. The church is unique as it is made of corals. While one is gaping at the church, the noise of Indian Ocean makes people walk towards it.
The view of two rivers merging to give way to a new river is surreal. However, the confluence of calm Mahodadhi (Bay of Bengal) and ruthless Ratnakar (Indian Ocean) is breathtaking. The best description of this confluence is ferocious, wild but languid at the same time. With just a single look, a person can be seized with admiration for the tremendous view.
Since the Bay of Bengal is shallow near Dhanushkodi, one can witness the colourful corals, fishes, etc. The moment one plunges into it, on the skin — from head to foot — a sweet feeling takes over the lovely and gentle quivering current like an icy and delicious caress. However, people are forewarned from venturing into Indian Ocean because of its violent nature. Despite the existence of these two water bodies so nearby, Dhanushkodi has several sweet water wells.
like any tourist attraction, here also, though small in number, are souvenir and tea shops. There are small shops set up by locals selling seashells and beverages for a living. This town also has significance as per the Hindu religion. Though now connectivity to Dhanushkodi is indeed a difficult journey, yet people can be seen coming to this faraway land for pilgrimage. According to Hindu epic Ramayana, lord Rama had built a bridge called Ram Setu or Rama’s bridge (now also known as the Adam’s Bridge) between the mainland and Sri lanka. It was to help his army cross the huge ocean to reach lanka. After Rama won the war and was crowned as the new king of lanka, Vibhishana requested Rama to destroy the bridge. Hence, Rama broke the bridge with one end of his bow. This is cited to be the reason for the name Dhanushkodi as ‘Dhanush’ means bow and ‘kodi’ means end.
It is also said that Rama originally marked the spot for the bridge with one of his famous bow that he strung to marry Sita. From the “land’s end” point of the peninsula, known as Arichumunai or erosion point, begins the chain of rocks and islets. These lines of rocks currently found between India and Sri lanka is assumed to be the rocks used by the vanar sena during the war between Rama and Ravana. This path is believed to be intact land bridge passable on foot until a cyclone in 1480 CE swept through the region and deepened the channel. These floating rocks can still be seen. The reason behind them floating is because they are made of limestone.
The Kodhanda Ram Kovil temple marks the place where Rama is said to have begun his journey to lanka. It is much before from where Dhanushkodi starts. Hindu pilgrims usually bathe in the sangam before completing the pilgrimage to Rameswaram. It is said that about 500 pilgrims visit Dhanushkodi daily and the number escalates during the festival days, such as on full and new moon days. The confluence of Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean is considered to be sacred. It is further said that pilgrimage to Kashi in North India is incomplete without worshipping in Rameswaram in addition to the ritual bath at Dhanushkodi.
A barefooted tour on the sands of Dhanushkodi is an additional bonus along with visiting ruins of this historical town. Though Sri lanka is just 18 miles from here, it cannot been seen in the day time. But from the tip of the island, during the night, lights in lanka can be seen sparkling like stars. However, all transports start the way back journey at 5.30 pm as the nearby area gets submerged due to high tide. The best time to visit this picturesque island is winter and spring months of October to March.