Established basically for religious purposes, satras (pronounced kshatras by the locals) came into being in the 16th century by Vaishnavite saint-reformer Sankardeva. Popularly referred to as monasteries, the satras are more than learning centres, they are centres of performing arts. While people call the Brahmins living here monks, they are not monks but bhakts or Vaishnavas and those outside of the satras as disciples or shishyas.
“We are Vaishnavites and our satra Auniati was established in 1653 by Ahom King Jayaddhaja Singha. This satra is the largest, it has 350 bhakts and 15 lakh disciples,” Ananda Kalita, a museum guide who joined the satra when he was seven and has been with it for 18 years, says. The high-point of this satra is the rug made from ivory shavings.
He tells you that the bhakts here do not marry. Of course, there are other satras which allow this practice. But not the Auniati satra. If a bhakt wants to marry, he has to leave the satra permanently. He then becomes like any other disciple.
“Though Majuli had 62 satras, the island now only has 32, the others lost to erosion by Brahmaputra. In all, Assam has 600 satras,” Kalita tells you and adds that the day for a bhakt starts at 4 am with yoga and pranayam.
“A major part of the day is spent in prayers. Those engaged in dance form spending time practising,” Kalita explains.