Jordan is more than just the Mecca of Christianity. It has a great past, a thriving culture, and a legacy of religious coexistence, writes Navneet Mendiratta
It’s that thing about religion. You have to strongly believe in it in order to experience the elation. For someone who is born in a country where religion is placed above all other, sights of people thronging dying rivers and ancient temple sites is a part of daily life. If only faith could revive them... But to see a similar kind of reverence in a faraway land felt strange at the first glance, but deep down, it actually reinstated my belief that all humanity is the same.
Jordan is the Mecca of Christianity — that is if it is fair to even draw up comparisons. As I voiced my dilemma aloud, I was checked by my fellow traveller and guide, Hani Heyasat. “Why notIJ We are cousins at the end of the day. Races that were born of the two sons from the same mother,” pointed Hani referring to the kinship connect dating back. I glanced down at my Jordan itinerary — it was liberally sprinkled with visits to historical sites, history that dates back to the evolution and growth of Christianity.
Tourism in Jordan is essentially religious in nature, followed by interests in ancient history, archaeology and geology. A pilgrim’s progress in the country begins at Amman and nearby Jerash, the site of the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa. A large Christian community is said to have lived in Jerash since 350 AD. In fact, more than 13 churches were built in the period between 400 AD and 600 AD. There is even a Cathedral dating back to the fourth century. Excavations have revealed several mosaics dating back to the era, unravelling a rich historical past. Site covered, the other must-see sights for a religious tourist include Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan, Mount Nebo and Madaba.
A pilgrimage centre
As I trooped down the duty track covered by short tamarisk trees (the original Christmas trees) down to the site where Jesus Christ was baptised by John, I could not help but feel the mood build up. It was a particularly hot day. In the back of my mind, I thanked Hani for pushing us into an early start so we didn’t have to bear the blazing noon sun. Our first halt was John the Baptist Spring that originated at a spot near Elijah’s hill and flows through the eastern bank of the river Jordan next to the Church of John the Baptist. What must have been clear and flowing is now a small puddle of water.
Standing closeby are the remains of the Chapels of the Jordan river dating back to fifth and sixth centuries AD. These include three churches built over each other and decorated with coloured mosaic and marble flooring. A marble staircase links these churches to the spring where Christ was said to have unrobed before entering the waters to be baptised. About 150 m west of the Byzantine church lies the Jordan river. Giving us company was a small group of pilgrims from Poland accompanied by a priest. What flowed freely in the past, the river is a little more than a muddy stream today as much of it has been exploited upstream by Israel and Jordan. The priest performed a small religious ceremony following which the pilgrims took out their hymn books and read them out.
I could sense the same sentiment across the opposite bank that is Israel. Pilgrims dressed in white robes prepared to take a dip in the holy water with reverence that you see at the banks of Ganga. The only sound missing was perhaps that of “Har har Gange!” Strangely, even as the pilgrims went about doing their religious duties, it was difficult to ignore the undercurrents that spelt out regional tensions. Armed Israeli soldiers stood just a few feet away on the opposite bank and a lone Jordanian guard watches over this side. Nevertheless, peace prevails — in spirit and being. I sat quietly at a bench nearby, imagining how it must have been in those days.
On our way back, we stopped by at the modern Orthodox church dedicated to St John the Baptist that had been built next to the Jordan river as part of the development of the site. It’s a small church with a golden dome that houses Byzantine-style murals inside.
Climbing up Nebo
We have to be thankful to Pope John Paul II for the beautiful road that exists today taking the pilgrims to Mount Nebo. It was in his honour of his visit in 2000 that this road was built. Standing at a height of 800 m this place is as sacred to Muslims as it is to the Christians. This is said to be Moses’ final resting place. And it is this place, according to The Bible, where Moses looked into the ‘promised land’. It was here that he got his signal that he was to seek no more. Stretching before him lays a vast landscape that today encompasses the Jordan river, the Dead Sea, Jericho and Jerusalem.
There is a lot of promise about the place. I stopped by to see the excavations led by the Franciscans (who own the site) having uncovered significant remains of the early church and its magnificent Byzantine mosaics. A simple modern shelter dedicated to Moses holds them all together.
Outside, near the entrance, stands a modern sculpture by an Italian artist representing Moses’ staff and Jesus’ words in John 3: “As Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, so must the Son of Man be lifted up.” Close by is the spot where Moses is said to have been buried.
The Old Baptistery houses one of the most interesting ancient mosaics in Jordan, both dating back to August 531 (as records a Greek inscription). The mosaic is in particularly good condition as it is said that another mosaic covering it was laid down a few decades after this one was done. The mosaic remained hidden for nearly 1,400 years until it was discovered in 1976 when the one on top was removed for restoration.
looking at it closely, the mosaic showed scenes from life as it existed in those times. At the top are the hunting scenes. There is a shepherd fighting a lion, a soldier fighting a lioness and, horseback hunters slaying a bear and wild boar. The bottom half is more grounded. You can see a shepherd watching his goat and sheep graze in the shade of trees. Then there is an ostrich on a leash held by a dark-skinned man. Another boy holds the leashes of a zebra and camel-like animal, albeit with spots.
What struck me was the depiction of trees. There was a row which had trees looking down and another with trees looking up. Hani decoded the mystery for me. “Trees looking up means you are connected to God. The others still have to get to that stage,” he observed wisely. I was amazed at the great craftsmanship that went into the making of these mosaics. It must have been a tough job.
The map of Madaba
This map is known to have sorted various territorial issues between the neighbours in West Asia. located 25 km southwest of Amman in a Byzantine church — St George’s — of Madaba is this very famous sixth century ‘Madaba Map’ of the Holy land dating back to the sixth century when Madaba was the seat of a bishop. It got lost in 746 when Madaba was largely destroyed by an earthquake and subsequently abandoned. The mosaic was rediscovered in 1884, during the construction of a new Greek Orthodox church at the same site.
“It is first geographical floor mosaic in the history of art. For years, this map has guided the countries on territorial issues,” said Hani as we made a focussed stop a the ancient church. Down the years, the map has been of great use for the localisation and verification of biblical sites. “Though a section of a map is missing, it more or less makes the position of countries and their borders as they existed in history very clear. Several discords have got sorted and treaties made in West Asia on the basis of this map,” he elaborated.
As I watched the rush of people taking pictures and offering services, I was struck by the role history plays in keeping faith alive. There are several other sites in Jordan a true Christian devout must visit like Umm Quais and the Sea of Galilee. As for me this is where the journey ended. Till next time...