Kashmir Valley is reeling under intense cold wave as snowfall has evaded the plains and upper reaches are waiting for the white drape to thicken with abundant snowfall. The brim of Dal lake freezes during the cloudless nights as if the shining moon supervises condensation process in water bodies.
For the past two weeks, the night temperature continues to remain below freezing point in Srinagar and other parts of Valley besides the expansive cold desert of ladakh. Officials at Srinagar based meteorological department said that the temperature dipped to minus 3.2 in Srinagar during the night intervening December 25 and 26. The mercury was at minus 5.7 degree Celsius in tourist resort of Gulmarg during this night.
Chillai Kalan, the harshest 40-day spell of winter would complete its first week on Sunday. True to its harshness and severity, the Kalan seldom allowed the night temperatures to remain above the freezing point though for at least three days sunshine appeared in defiance.
The people in Kashmir have employed all traditional means to brave the chill that takes heavy toll on their economy. “Kashmiris literally work for six months only. The winter months render them idle”, said Muhammad Haroon, a shopkeeper in old Srinagar. “It is better to remain indoors when there is no electricity and less people venture out for shopping and other activities”, he said.
The common people are wearing heavy woollens, generally beneath a pheran, a long flowing woollen cloak. They hold a kangri, an earthen pot woven in wicker, which is filled with ambers. The mobile kangri keeps the body warm.
Many people in Srinagar go to harissa outlets for breakfast with this traditional delicacy. Made with lamb shanks, this mouth-watering delicacy contains skimmed rice mixed with meat and spices, mostly garlic and fennel seeds. The aroma of harissa attracts hundreds of city dwellers in the morning. Of late, the delicacy is prepared in the countryside also and many affluent homes have begun to throw harissa parties.
The expert harissa cooks known as harisagars boil the contents of this delicacy for the entire night in huge cauldron over simmering fires, continuously stirring it with a wooden ladle. Small piece of kabab adorn the harissa-filled plates like icing on the cake.
Even as the heavy snowfall is not the hallmark of Kashmir’s winter for many years, the winter months continue to mould and shape the lives of Kashmiris. “The larger fact at the core of our weather is that Kashmir may never be what it is in summers, if it does not undergo the winter chill. And then, Kashmir is not the only place on earth that gets snow. Snow is a huge wealth. Go and ask the skiers at Gulmarg and they will tell you why Kashmir is better than Alps”, wrote local weekly Kashmir life in its editorial for its exclusive issue on winter.
Interestingly, the downpour in winter closes most of the passes and motorable roads in the mountaeous regions of the Valley. While this is satisfying situation for the army and border guards who do not fear ingress of militants, the movement of common people is restricted in many areas. The 86-Km historic Mughal Road that connects Valley to Rajouri and other Pir Panjal areas in Jammu province through south Kashmir’s Shopian is closed for the third consecutive day. The Srinagar-Jammu national highway is through but not without advisory for the commuters due to slippery road conditions. Travellers have been asked to contact Traffic Control Units before travelling on Srinagar Jammu highway and the Mughal Road. The roads to ladakh and Gurez have been closed.
The temperature below freezing point does not deter the winter tourists and adventure lovers to undertake sojourn during Kashmir’s winter period. Deputy Director Tourism Pirzada Zahoor said that Ice-skating Championship was going on at Gulmarg, a prelude to beginning of winter sports events at the ski resort.