

Celebrity Chef Akshay Nayyar, MD, Kopper Kadai (Delhi & Bangalore), tells SHAlINI SAKSENA all there is to know about molecular gastronomy
What is molecular gastronomyIJ
It is an advanced stage of culinary science which uses certain gases in different forms, in limited and right quantity, to create a unique dish. It is also about cooking foods at different temperatures and viscosities. In layman’s terms, molecular gastronomy is advanced food science.
How is it different from fusion foodsIJ
It is totally different. Fusion is when two cuisines are brought together to make a unique dish. For example, cherry tomato and olive mozzarella cheese naan means fusing Indian and Italian cuisines. Molecular gastronomy is a technique used to enhance the look of any cuisine. For example, lassi can be make into a sphere using sodium alginate and calcium.
Does Indian cuisine need molecular gastronomyIJ
A lot of people have been doing it. Personally, I have never favoured it because our flavours are very delicate and yet complex. When you alter it, say, using sodium alginate (polysaturite — a form of sugar), there will be some alternation in taste too. There will be a huge difference when it is used in lassi. The overall feel and taste changes.
What makes it so popularIJ
When molecular gastronomy arrived in India a few years back, it created a lot of buzz. People wondered how lassi could be turned into a bubble, how one could make fruit spaghetti or how there could be a drink with gases coming out of it. The surprise element, especially on social media, was high. But now people have become aware of the technique and know the ins and out of this style which is almost on its way out of India.
What precautions need to be takenIJ
Molecular gastronomy as a chemical is absolutely safe. It has been tried and tested. But right training, talent and usage is very important or there can be adverse effect. Be it liquid nitrogen, agar agar or xanthan gum — all are perfectly safe for human consumption. As one uses sugar, one consumes these chemicals too. But anything in excess is bad. One has to understand how liquid nitrogen reacts. One gram expands to up to 694 units and can lead to an explosion if there is no escape route. Hence, care has to be taken while serving it.
What should a guest know about this style.
There is nothing the guest needs to know since he is there to enjoy the dining experience. It is like going to a doctor. You are not supposed to know the medicine but the doctor should know since you are trusting him to give you the right treatment. Similarly, we, as chefs, are food doctors. It is our responsibility to serve the guest the correct food. We should know that we have used a special apparatus to serve a particular dish. Or that one should use a cryo glass to serve a drink which has liquid nitrogen for the vapours to escape.