Nestled in the south-eastern coast of India, Puducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry) is a region recognized for its rich history, ancient temples, colonial architecture, exquisite fusion cuisine, and much more- making for a seamlessly vibrant, and one-of-a-kind all-round experience. From early Tamil settlements to European colonisation, Puducherry’s history is a fascinating tapestry of influences. This territory was part of the ancient ‘Tamilakam’, a region encompassing present-day Tamil Nadu and parts of Andhra Pradesh and Kerala, during the Sangam period (3rd century BCE to 3rd century CE). According to legends, the sage Agastya, a revered figure in Southern India, played a significant role in the history of Puducherry. It is believed he resided in the area, which was then known as Vedapuri, and was a major centre for Vedic studies. Sri Aurobindo Ashram- founded by Sri Aurobindo and Mirra Alfassa (also known as “The Mother”), is a well-known spiritual community in Puducherry. It is built on the site where some believe, sage Agastya’s hermitage was located.
The region served as a bustling hub for maritime trade between the Roman Empire and the South Indian kingdoms, with goods like spices, textiles, semi-precious stones, and ivory flowing through its ports. Excavations at Arikamedu which is just a few kilometers south of Puducherry, confirms the presence of the Romans in the 1st century AD. In fact, ancient Roman scripts mention one of the trade centres along the Indian coast as ‘Poduca’ or ‘Poduke’, which many historians affirm to be the name for Puducherry. Later, Puducherry came under the Pallava dynasty and contributed significantly to the area’s cultural and architectural growth. From the 3rd century to the 16th century, Puducherry witnessed the rise and fall of several South Indian dynasties.
After the Pallavas, the Chola dynasty regained control of the region, followed by the Pandya dynasty, which ruled over Puducherry until the Vijayanagara Empire took power in the 14th century. During the reign of the Vijayanagara rulers, Puducherry became a strategic coastal town known for its flourishing trade with Southeast Asia and the Arabian Peninsula. By the mid-16th century, the region witnessed the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire, and the arrival of European powers, like the Portuguese, developments that had a profound impact on the region for some centuries to follow. Although the Portuguese were the first Europeans to establish a presence in the region- it was the French who left an indelible mark on the area’s identity. In 1674, François Martin, the first governor of Puducherry, founded the French East India Company, and the region officially became a French colony. He is widely considered the ‘Father of Puducherry’ — who envisioned it as a major trading centre, and actively developed its infrastructure and trade. His efforts laid the foundation for Puducherry’s growth and its subsequent role as a significant French colonial settlement. For nearly 280 years, Puducherry remained under French control, though it changed hands multiple times due to conflicts between the British, Dutch, and French. The French influence is still palpable in the area’s architecture, cuisine, and culture, earning it the nickname “The French Riviera of the East.” A treaty of cession was signed between India and France in May 1956. It was ratified by the French parliament in May 1962. On August 16, 1962, India and France exchanged the instruments of ratification under which France ceded to India full sovereignty over the territories it held. Pondicherry and the other enclaves of Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam came to be administered as the Union Territory of Pondicherry from July 1, 1963. The city retained its French character- a heritage that continues to draw visitors from around the world — to this day. The name “Pondicherry” was officially changed to “Puducherry” on September 20, 2006. The change was made to reflect the original Tamil name, “Putuceri,” which means “new settlement”. The French had previously altered this to “Pondichéry” during their colonial rule.
The cuisine of Puducherry is like no other, it is heavily influenced by two major cuisines- Tamil and French! It also incorporates elements of Portuguese, Dutch, and even Vietnamese and Bengali cuisines in some dishes. This unique fusion results in a diverse culinary landscape. The region’s history as a former French colony has led to a blend of traditional Tamil dishes with French culinary techniques and ingredients. This creates a distinctive Franco-Tamil cuisine, sometimes referred to as ‘Creole’ cuisine. ‘Fish Assad Curry’ is a prime example of this Creole fusion. While fish curries exist across India, the specific combination of ingredients and flavours in Fish Assad Curry, like the use of poppy seeds and a creamy coconut milk base that is flavoured with anise and curry leaves, finished with a squeeze of lime- gives this dish a nutty flavour and creamy texture- distinct to Puducherry. The most famous fish soup from Marseilles (France) — the ‘Bouillabaisse’ has been transformed into a ‘Meen Puyabaisse’. While both are seafood stews, Meen Puyabaise integrates local spices, tamarind, and turmeric, and is typically cooked in ghee, differentiating it from the traditional French preparation. We all know about the legendary and omnipresent ‘Dosa’ in south India, a staple, dosa batter typically consists of rice and urad dal (black lentils) that are soaked, ground, and fermented, they can be eaten as it is (after being cooked on a griddle or flat pan), or filled with various combinations of vegetables and masalas. Pondicherry has its own ‘Pondicherry Crepe’ — that like the dosa, is cooked on a griddle or flat pan, it is reflective of the town’s French influence, featuring a delicate balance of sweet and savoury elements, with subtle hints of spice. These crepes are typically thin and pliable, and can be enjoyed with a variety of fillings- both traditional French and local South Indian-inspired. The fillings in Pondicherry crepe can include fruits like bananas or strawberries, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and various jams or fruit preserves. Crepes with a sweet coconut filling and palm sugar (Pandan crepes) are also a popular choice, and are reflective of the Indonesian cuisine’s impact on Puducherry’s food spectrum. Savoury fillings can include options like cheese, smoked salmon, ham, mushrooms, chicken, or vegetables. Here, I must mention the much loved ‘Spinach Crepe’ — filled with spinach, mushrooms, pre-cooked meats, and tantalizing spices. Topped with creamy mushrooms and feta cheese, it’s a flavour explosion like no other!
A unique masala in Puducherry is called ‘Vadavam’ or ‘Vadakam’ (a Tamil spice mix), it’s French version is called ‘Vadouvan’ — a sun-dried spice mixture, a product of the Franco-Tamil cuisine in Pondicherry, influenced by French colonization. It’s a blend of shallots, garlic, sesame oil, mustard seeds, fenugreek and spices, meticulously sun-dried for weeks. This flavourful paste is used to enhance various dishes, particularly in curries and sambars, and is a hallmark of the unique culinary fusion in the region.
A noteworthy dish that’s made using the above-mentioned spice mix is ‘Mutton Sambhar’ also called ‘Margandam Mutton Sambhar’ — a blend of Tamil and French cuisine. Key ingredients include mutton, toor dal (pigeon or split pigeon peas), tamarind, onions, tomatoes, and a mix of spices like mustard seeds, cumin seeds, red chilies, and curry leaves. Additional ingredients can include vegetables like pumpkin, drumsticks, and eggplant. ‘Yeral Vindail’, is yet another fusion jewel, it features prawns cooked in a flavourful, slightly tangy and spicy sauce, often with a coconut milk base to soften the impact of the spices for the French palate. The dish incorporates French techniques like using vinegar and a slow-cooked method (which involve cooking food at low temperatures for extended periods to achieve tender, flavourful results), while also embracing Indian spices and flavours like tamarind and coconut milk. It is served with fresh ‘Appams’ — a traditional Indian pancake made of fermented batter typically consisting of rice and coconut. It is in the state of Kerala that appams were first made, today, they are consumed not just in the southern states of India, but relished across different parts of our country. ‘Kothamalli Puthina Kozhi Kari’— is a testimony to the unique blend of Indian and French flavours that dominate Puducherry’s gastronomic canvas. It’s a chicken dish, where the chicken is cooked in a thick paste of coriander, mint, ginger and garlic. Lime juice is added to the chicken once it is tender, and served with mashed potatoes. ‘Kadugu Yerra’ or Mustard Prawns is a speciality, and another traditional dish from Puducherry that stands out for its bold flavours. It combines mustard seeds, curry leaves, and has a coconut-based gravy, resulting in a dish that’s both comforting and fiery.
One of the most iconic dishes in the state of Goa is ‘Vindaloo’, we see the Portuguese influence in Puducherry also reflected through another version of it, called ‘Chicken Vindail’- a dish with distinct Puducherry flavours. Puducherry’s chicken vindail typically includes tomatoes, vinegar (a key component, hence the name “vindail”), and a dash of sugar, with chicken slow-cooked until tender. While influenced by the Goan dish, Puducherry’s chicken vindail has its own unique taste profile, often served with rice, yogurt, and okra. Strong Tamil influence on the cuisine is seen through ‘Paniyaram’ or ‘Kuzhi Paniyaram’ — a versatile dish, enjoyed both sweet and savoury, made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils, and also includes onions and spices. It’s cooked in a special pan with small depressions, resulting in a soft, spongy cake. These dumplings are crispy on the outside, and soft on the inside- typically served with chutneys and sambar. Another Tamil dish that is a part of the classic Puducherry cuisine is ‘Kal Dosai’ — a widely eaten and popular breakfast dish in Pondicherry, known for its thick, soft texture, that is slightly thicker than regular dosa, often served with coconut chutney and sambar. The dish is a staple for both locals and visitors. It is relatively simple to prepare, but its unique texture, and the flavours of the accompaniments, make it a delightful meal.
Now to the most iconic and ubiquitous ‘Idli’- food historians widely believe that Idli is an evolution of the older dish ‘Iddalige’ (or Iddarige), first documented in the 9th or 10thcentury Kannada text ‘Vaddaradhane’. While the early Iddalige was likely made primarily from ground black gram, the modern Idli, with its combination of rice and urad dal, is thought to have developed through cross-cultural culinary influences, possibly with Indonesian or Arab traders bringing fermentation techniques to South India. The dish was also mentioned in the 10th-century Tamil text “Periya Puranam”, which narrates the life story of the 63 Nayanars, a group of Shaivite saints. Puducherry has its own ‘Puducherry Idli’ — which often features a slightly sweet taste (Olaiappam), sometimes enhanced with jaggery or sugar, cardamom and served with coconut milk. This is a departure from the traditional savoury sambar and chutney being the regular accompaniments. The batter is made with a slightly thicker consistency than regular Idli batter (known for lightness and mild tang), and prepared with less water, to prevent it from becoming too watery after adding sugar.
Two dishes offer a rich experience of the sweet taste- the ‘Thengai Ladoo’ — while coconut ladoos are enjoyed in many parts of India, it holds a special place in Puducherry’s cuisine, with locals and visitors alike appreciating its flavour and cultural significance. It is often prepared during festivals and special occasions- made with grated coconut, condensed milk, and cardamom, and is known for its rich taste and delightful texture. The second, is the region’s own version of the famous ‘Halwa’, called the ‘Puducherry Halwa’ — its particularly known for its distinctive texture, and uses wheat, sugar and ghee, often garnished with nuts, raisins, cardamom and saffron.
Indian cuisine is one of the oldest in the world. Many ancient Indian texts offer valuable insights into food, cooking, and dietary practices. Texts like the Vedas (Rigveda and Atharvaveda), Charaka Samhita, Sushruta Samhita and many more discuss ingredients, recipes, and the importance of food for health and well-being. Additionally, manuscripts like Manasollasa, Pakadarpana, and Kshemakutuhala provide specific recipes and culinary techniques. Puducherry cuisine is an important representation of what Indian cuisine has been all about over the past thousands of years. Besides what has been our own, as mentioned above, it’s also about adding, absorbing and assimilating the ingredients, combinations and methods of preparations and tailoring it according to the regional food palette. All these make the cuisine distinct, as well as give it a twist- like no other! In the case of Puducherry, we see many French and some Portuguese dishes getting an impressive regional makeover (mostly through Tamil cuisine), and even vice versa — post which they have become runaway successes, and are prime examples of fusion food at its best!
In the end, I want to make a clarion call to our children and youth — to explore the sheer diversity of our regional food, in this case- Puducherry. It is a great example of variety, interplay of different cuisines, with one clear winner — the Indian tastebuds! Active participation by our youngsters, and greater exposure to this gastronomic powerhouse will ensure, that in the years and decades to follow, elements of Puducherry’s cuisine become increasingly visible on their food plate — by far the most effective way to strengthen the cuisine’s legacy!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society)