It’s called Maha- Rashtra for a reason — the region as it stands today, is one of the largest states of India, it’s also drenched in mega history, culture and traditions, and has been an area of great significance in different spheres — through the various epochs of Bharat’s glorious journey, from antiquity, to this day. This expanse has played a consistent and seminal role in our nation’s history, right from the earliest times, beginning with the Paleolithic (old stone age), Mesolithic (middle stone age), Neolithic (new stone age) and Chalcolithic (copper age). The Bori site, near Pune is considered the earliest lower paleolithic site in the area, additionally, lower and middle Paleolithic tools have been discovered in various locations along the coast, and in the Wardha-Wainganga valleys — notable sites include Chirki (near Nevasa), Koregaon, Chandoli, and Shikarpur. For the sake of brevity, I will fast forward to the Jorwe culture — it was a Chalcolithic archaeological culture that flourished in parts of Maharashtra and the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh in India, during the mid-second millennium BCE. It’s named after the village of Jorwe, where the culture was first identified. The Jorwe culture is characterized by its painted pottery, chalcedony blade-flake industry, and the use of copper tools and ornaments. The most ancient evidence of agriculture in Maharashtra is also found in the Chalcolithic period settlements along the Godavari, Bhima, Krishna, and Tapi river valleys. These settlements, dating back thousands of years, reveal communities practicing subsistence farming, particularly in the fertile river basins. The primary crops cultivated were millets, pulses, and various grains, which were well-suited to the region’s semi-arid climate.
Several ancient dynasties ruled over the region of present-day Maharashtra. The most prominent ones included the Satavahanas, Vakatakas, Chalukyas, and Rashtrakutas. Additionally, the Mauryan Empire also extended its influence over parts of Maharashtra during its reign. The name Maharashtra, denoting the western upland of the Deccan plateau, first appeared in a 7th-century inscription of Pulakesin II (Chalukyan king) at Aihole, and in the account of Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang), a Chinese traveller at that time (7th-century). He refers to the region as “Mo-ho-la-ch’a”, which is believed to be a transliteration of Maharashtra. A succession of Muslim dynasties ruled this area after 1307. Persian, the court language of the Muslims, had a far-reaching effect on the Marathi language. By the mid-16th century, Maharashtra was again fragmented between several independent Muslim rulers, who fought each other endlessly. It was in the midst of that chaos that a great leader, Shivaji, was born in 1630, he showed astonishing prowess by founding a large Maratha empire that shook Delhi-based Mughal rule to its foundations. I must also briefly mention another important phase in the state’s history — the Bhakti movement, it was a prominent devotional movement that emphasized personal devotion to God, particularly Vithoba (a form of Vishnu), and challenged social hierarchies. It originated in the 13th century and flourished until the 17th century, impacting the region’s social, cultural, and literary landscape. The most popular Maharashtra Bhakti movement saints included Sant Dnyaneshwar (Jnaneshwar), Namdev, Eknath, Tukaram, and Samarth Ramdas. Maharashtra also contributed at the highest level in India’s freedom movement through leaders like Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Jyotiba and Savitribhai Phule, Vasudev Balwant Phadke, Vinobha Bhave, Pandurang Mahadev Bapat and many more. Thirteen years after our independence, Maharashtra became a separate Indian state on 1st of May, 1960. Now to the cuisine of the state, its actually so diverse both in flavours and variety, that an article alone will not do justice to its legacy. The people of Maharashtra regard their food as ‘Anna he poornabrahma’ which means ‘anna’, or food is equal to ‘Brahma’, or the creator of the universe. In other words, it means food is God, thus it should be worshiped. Maharashtrians also believe in offering their food first to the lord as a thanksgiving ritual for all that he/she has given. On festive occasions, some specific mithais (sweets) are offered such as Ukadiche Modak (Ganesh Chaturthi) and Satyanarayan Puja Sheera. Maharashtrian cuisine has a formidable line up from different regions, namely, Malvani (a subset of Konkani cuisine from Malvan region of Sindhudurg and adjoining districts), Varhadi (Vidarbha region, that includes Nagpur and Amravati), Khandeshi (Khandesh region, specifically parts of Jalgaon, Dhule, Nandurbar and Nashik) and Kolhapuri (Kolhapur region). Deshastha cuisine is a regional sub-cuisine within Maharashtrian cuisine, associated with Deshastha Brahmins. It is not a separate cuisine but rather a collection of dishes and food practices specific to this community, particularly those living in the inland regions of Maharashtra and northern Karnataka. In this article I will confine myself to the Malvani and Varhadi cuisine, and take up the rest sometime in the future.
The Malvani cuisine is from the coastal region of Maharashtra, especially the Konkan region. It’s known for its use of coconut, seafood, and a unique blend of spices like Malvani masala, made using coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorns, dried red chilies, cloves, cinnamon, and other aromatic spices. Each blend may vary slightly based on individual recipes and preferences. One of the most important constituents of coastal food, is undoubtedly — fish! I therefore begin with the famed ‘Masyachi Amti’ or the Malvani fish curry, the dish uses fresh fish like pomfret, kingfish, or mackerel, simmered in a special Malvani masala blend of dried red chilies, coriander, cumin, and coconut. Kokum or tamarind provides the characteristic tang, while coconut milk creates a luscious texture. The delicious ‘Kombadi Vade’ also called ‘Malvani Vade’ are deep-fried, thick flatbreads made from rice flour, urad dal (split and skinned black gram), and occasionally with wheat and ragi flour, serving as a staple in Konkani cuisine. They are traditionally paired with spicy Malvani curries like ‘Kombdi Rassa’ (chicken curry) or mutton curry. An important part of this meal is the unique beverage that accompanies Kombadi vade called ‘Sol Kadhi’ or ‘Kokum Kadhi’ — a refreshing Konkani drink that typically includes grated coconut, dried kokum peels (amsul/agal), garlic, green chilies, ginger, coriander leaves, cumin powder, and salt. Some recipes also include sugar, black salt, or a tempering with mustard seeds and curry leaves. This dish is a must-have during festivals, weddings, and family gatherings in the coastal Konkan belt. The humble baingan (brinjal) is taken to great heights by ‘Bharli Vangi’ — a dish popular in the entire state, but with distinct styles in different regions. The Malvani version of Bharli Vangi is made using the Malvani masala, onions, dry coconut, and roasted peanuts, the same dish in the north of the state uses sesame, poppy and niger seeds.
The much loved ‘Mutton Rassa’ is a classic Malvani dish. It’s also known as ‘Muttonache Rassa’ in Marathi. It’s a flavourful and aromatic mutton curry that’s a staple in Malvani cuisine. It is made using onions, ginger-garlic paste and malvani masala. Another traditional offering is ‘Amboli’ — a classic regional dish, it’s a type of pancake, similar to a dosa, made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils. It is a popular breakfast option in this region of Maharashtra, often served with coconut chutney, peanut chutney or green chilly pickle. It can also be served with chicken, mutton and vegetable curries. Malvani ‘Kurlya Chi Amti’ is a crab dish strongly associated with Malvan and the broader Konkan region of Maharashtra. This spicy curry dish is made with freshly grated coconut, onions, tomatoes, coriander and the iconic Malvani masala — often enjoyed with rice or bhakri — let me explain this legendary Indian flatbread in a few lines. Bhakri’ is typically made from rice flour (tandlachi bhakri) or jowar (sorghum) flour. It’s a staple in the Malvan region of Maharashtra and is often paired with various Malvani dishes, especially non-vegetarian curries of chicken or mutton. Talk about Malvani cuisine and miss mentioning the traditional ‘Bombil Fry’ also called the ‘Bombay Duck Fry’ — that would be inexcusable! Bombil is a type of fish, specifically a type of lizardfish commonly called Bombay Duck, known for its soft and delicate texture. The dish is typically made by coating bombil in a spice mixture and then frying it, often with a coating of rava (semolina) or rice flour.
The cuisine delivers strongly on the sweet dishes as well with ‘Shirvale’ — a favourite Malvani sweet dish. It is made with steamed rice noodles served with a sweet coconut milk, jaggery mixture and cardamom powder. It is often made during auspicious occasions, or as a special breakfast or dessert. ‘Khaproli’ — is another traditional sweet dish from the region, it’s a type of pancake typically made from a fermented batter of rice and lentils, and sometimes with the addition of chana dal and fenugreek seeds. The dish is known for its soft and spongy texture, and is often enjoyed soaked in sweet coconut milk, flavoured with jaggery. Finally, I will complete my sweet dishes line up of the region with ‘Malvani Khaja’ — a crispy, layered sweet originating from this coastal region of the state, made with a dough of gram flour and jaggery, often with the addition of ginger and sesame seeds, and then deep-fried — making for an extremely satisfying and delicious treat. I believe all the above-mentioned dishes have clearly established the broad canvas on which the Malvani cuisine operates, and how meaningfully it contributes to the culinary experience from the region.
Now let’s turn our attention to the other focus of this article — the ‘Varhadi’ cuisine. Vidarbha is in the interior of Maharashtra, its cuisine has a good balance of spices, generous use of powdered coconut and besan (gram flour). The food perfectly factors in the region’s hot and dry conditions, featuring dishes that are both hearty and flavourful, with a focus on local grains, pulses, and vegetables. It’s only fair that we start-off with the fabled ‘Varhadi Thali’ — it’s a traditional meal that represents the heart of Varadi food culture, featuring a variety of dishes that highlight the region’s unique and balanced flavours — brought about by the culinary techniques. Main dishes include ‘Patodi Rassa’ also sometimes referred to as ‘Patwadi Rassa’ — the dish features savoury gram flour (besan) dumplings (patodi/patwadi) served in a spicy, flavourful gravy called rassa, ‘Batata Bhindi Bhaji’ — a dish of okra and potatoes stir-fried with spices, ‘Gajar Kanda Koshimbir’ — this salad is a simple yet flavourful combination of grated carrots, onions, and sometimes other ingredients like peanuts, coconut, and spices. It’s often dressed with lemon juice for a tangy flavour, ‘Nagpuri Dahi Mutton — the main ingredients include mutton, curd, and spices. Additionally, onions, ginger-garlic paste, green chillies, coriander leaves, and some whole spices (eg, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon) are also used. Curd gives a special taste and aroma to mutton. Other dishes/accompaniments include, ‘Dry garlic chutney’, ‘Paneer in dahi masala’, Jowar roti (bhakri), and for the sweet cravings — ‘Basundi’ — a creamy, thickened milk dessert flavoured with saffron, cardamom, and nuts. It can be served as a standalone dessert or as part of a thali.
Like in many other parts of the state, ‘Goda masala’ is also an important part of many Varhadi dishes, it includes sesame seeds, cumin seeds, asafoetida, cinnamon, red chilli, turmeric, cloves, and cardamom — these spices are roasted and processed into a fine powder along with coconut and coriander seeds. A specific masala to this region is ‘Varhadi masala’ — it offers a complex flavour profile that combines earthy, smoky, fiery, and tangy notes, and includes, dried red chilies (for heat), cumin seeds (for earthiness), coriander seeds (for citrusy notes), sesame seeds, and tamarind (for tang). A classic dish that is infused with this masala is the ‘Varhadi chicken’ — it is characterized by its intense spiciness and rich flavour profile, largely brought about by the aromatic masala. The chicken is often cooked slowly in a thick-bottomed vessel to develop its flavours and perfectly tenderize the meat. ‘Varhadi pulao’ — is a classic dish within Varhadi cuisine, that is particularly known for its association with celebratory occasions, especially weddings. While originally a rice and meat-based (goat, lamb and chicken) dish — vegetarian versions called ‘Goli Bhaat’ have also become popular, often substituting the meat with spicy chickpea flour dumplings. ‘Rodge’ — is a traditional dish of Varhadi cuisine, which is the cuisine of the Vidarbha region in Maharashtra, India. It’s particularly known as a winter specialty, often prepared in village fields. Rodge is a type of baked bread made from coarsely ground wheat, semolina, carom seeds, and oil. It’s traditionally cooked in earthen pits heated by cowdung cakes, taking about three hours to steam-cook. ‘Sargunde’ — is a traditional summer staple from Vidarbha, it is made from a simple dough of whole-wheat flour and a pinch of salt, rolled by hand around thin bamboo sticks into long, spiral shapes, then sun-dried until crisp. These spirals store well during the intense summer months — Both the above dishes are an ode to the region’s close understanding of the climatic conditions, and the foods that complement it. Last but not the least, let’s bring in the regional twist to the ubiquitous and venerated ‘Misal Pav’, the ‘Varhadi Misal Pav’ — known for its spicy and flavourful combination, originating from the Varhad region. It typically features a spicy usal (sprouts curry) topped with farsan (savory snacks), chopped onions, coriander, and a spicy gravy called rassa or tarri, served with pav (bread rolls). Maharashtrian food, is a gastronomical powerhouse. It offers a variety that includes unique and rustic food, as well as dishes that will delight the gastronome. What the cuisine urgently requires, is intensified resonance with the children and youth of our country. Once this synergy is achieved, I believe, the understanding of the cuisine, along with its mighty potential, will reach where it is required the most — in the hearts and minds of the Millennials, Gen Z and the Gen Alpha. This will ensure, that Gen Beta (born in 2025) is able to naturally connect, and relate with my exhortation in the times to come!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society)