Goa is a state that holds the tag for being one of the most popular tourist destinations in India. Beyond the beaches and a spectacular landscape, is a state that has a deep relationship with the most ancient periods of Indian history. A closeness that has surpassed the multitude of challenges thrown by time- emerging as an amalgamation of the most unique and wonderful elements. One of them being its cuisine, which has assimilated and absorbed the regions continuous interaction with external elements in the most beautiful manner.
The petroglyphs of Pansaimol, Kajur, Pirla, Mauxi showcase Goa’s stone age (megalithic) rock art, dating back to the prehistoric times, with the first of these being on the banks of the virgin Kushawati, resting on a laterite rock bed. The Usgalimal rock engravings or Usgalimal petroglyphs at Usgalimal village, in South Goa, is one of the most important prehistoric sites in Western India. Goa’s rock formations of the Trondhjemite gneiss and schist of the Anmod and Palolem rocks are specific types of ancient metamorphic rocks — the gneisses and schists being a part of the Peninsular Gneissic Complex that are among the oldest rocks in India, dating back to over 3 billion years. The ancient city of Goa, hardly a fragment of which survives, was built at the southernmost point of the island of Goa. The region was famous in early legends and history, like the Puranas, Mahabharata and various inscriptions, in which its name appears as Gove, Govapuri, Gomanchal and Gomant. Evidence points to Goa being a part of the Satavahana dynasty which ruled the Deccan parts of India for roughly 450 years, from the late 2nd century BCE to the early 3rd century CE. Satavahana coins, earthenware and bricks have been unearthed from Chandrapura (present day Chandor) in Goa.
The medieval Arabian geographers knew it as Sindabur, or Sandabur. It was ruled by the Kadamba dynasty for over 400 years, until around 1345. The land was later governed for about a century by the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar, and was later conquered by the Bahmani sultanate. Old Goa was founded by the rulers of the Bijapur Sultanate in the 15th century as a port on the Mandovi River to replace the older port of Govapuri. Finally, Goa came under Portuguese control in 1510, when the Portuguese, led by Afonso de Albuquerque, captured it from the Bijapur Sultanate. This marked the beginning of a 450-year period of Portuguese rule in Goa. The Portuguese were removed from Goa on December 19, 1961, following an Indian military invasion. It was then that Goa ceased to be a Portuguese territory and became part of India. Goa was granted statehood on May 30, 1987, along with Daman and Diu.
Goa’s varied and deep historical antecedents, also result in a delicious and diverse culinary experience. Goan cuisine is greatly influenced by Konkani and Portuguese cuisines. The Portuguese introduced ingredients like chillies, potatoes, tomatoes, and cashew nuts. These crops, originally from the Americas, became integral to Indian cuisine and agriculture after the Portuguese brought them during their colonial presence. They also introduced vinegar — its origins trace back to ancient civilisations, with evidence suggesting its use as far back as 5000 B.C. by the Babylonians. They utilised it for various purposes, including cooking, medicine, and preservation, often made from fermented dates, figs, or beer. Traces of vinegar have also been found in ancient Egyptian urns from around 3000 BC. Konkani cuisine, the local cuisine of the region, also forms a foundation, while the Saraswat Hindu influence is evident in vegetarian dishes and seafood preparations. Let’s get a flavour of each one of them, shall we!
When we look at the Konkani influence, the ‘Goan Style Tonak Alsanyache’ (Black eyed beans cooked in Tonak Masala Recipe) — comes to my mind. It is a typical Goan dish that is made using legumes and potatoes. The gravy is traditionally made from coconut and red-cow peas (called alsane or alsande in Goa), with the masala that is used in this gravy, also used for other legumes or vegetables. The Tonak masala spice mix used in this recipe has unique blend of whole spice such as coriander seeds, cinnamon, red chilies, peppercorns, star anise, cloves, cumin and cinnamon. A testament to a simple yet most flavoursome dish is ‘Khatkhate’ — a traditional Konkani Goan dish, it’s a mixed vegetable stew or curry, often made with at least five different vegetables, kokum (Malabar tamarind), tirphal (Sichuan pepper) and features a coconut-based gravy. It’s a popular dish, especially during festivals like Ganesh Chaturthi, and is known for being a no-onion, no-garlic recipe. Then there is the ‘Ambot Tik’ dish, its two words, ambot means tangy/sour & tik means hot/spicy in Konkani, it’s a hot and tangy curry, made mostly using fish, prawns or even calamari. A popular fish of choice for this curry is shark fish. The spice of this curry is well balanced with tamarind and vinegar which forms the basis for the sour component. Unlike most Goan curries, this shark ambot tik curry doesn’t use coconut at all. It’s best served with Goan boiled rice/regular steamed rice, sannas (Goan steamed rice cakes made with red rice) or even pao/pav (dinner rolls).
Comfort food is taken to great heights through ‘Dali Thoy’ — a classic Goan dish, it’s a staple in Konkani cuisine and is found throughout the Konkan region. It’s a simple, tempered lentil soup (often made with toor dal) that’s a common part of many Goan meals, while the basic recipe is consistent, there are variations, including adding coconut milk — a common addition in Goan Dali Thoy. The most flavourful ‘Kaju Biyaam Tondak’ is a stellar offering, it has a mildly spicy coconut-based gravy. It is normally made using the best quality Goan cashew nuts and served as a vegetarian delicacy in weddings and parties along with Phulkas, Jeera Rice and a Salad. It is made by following the traditional style of state cooking which consists of roasting grated coconut along with onion, garlic and spices, with the addition of tamarind (used as a souring agent in most of the Goan dishes). ‘Kismur’ or ‘Kismuri’ — is a classic Konkani Goan dish, it’s a dry fish salad or an accompaniment/side dish that is versatile, made with various types of dried fish like mackerel, shark, or kingfish, as well as prawns and shrimps. Its vegetarian version is the ‘Papdachi Kismur’ — that uses gavti tarvoti papad (made with lentils) and local tarvoti chillies, it is made by frying or roasting the papads on a live flame before being drizzled with coconut oil.
The most legendary dish having Portuguese influence is ‘Vindaloo’ — a spicy and tangy curry dish, the name “vindaloo” comes from the Portuguese dish “carne de vinho e alhos,” meaning “meat in wine and garlic” — the Portuguese used wine (or vinegar) and garlic as key ingredients, Goan cooks replaced the wine with palm vinegar and added local spices like Kashmiri chillies (resulting in a deep red colour and smoky flavour), cumin, turmeric and retained garlic — creating a distinctive vindaloo flavour. The dish can be made with pork as well as chicken. ‘Xacuti’ is another prominent dish within Goan cuisine, it showcases the region’s unique blend of Indian and Portuguese culinary heritage. The name “Xacuti” itself is a variation of the Portuguese word ‘chacuti’ — a hallmark of Xacuti is its complex spice blend and the use of roasted grated coconut. While traditionally made with chicken, other variations include vegetables, paneer, mushrooms, and fish, the dish is often served during festive occasions and celebrations in Goa. The list is strengthened by ‘Sorpotel’ — a classic Goan dish with Portuguese origins. It’s a spicy and tangy pork dish that was introduced to Goa during the Portuguese colonial period. The dish is believed to have evolved from a Portuguese dish called ‘Sarapatel’, which also uses a variety of pork cuts and offal (edible internal organs). Over time, Goan cooks adapted the recipe, incorporating local ingredients like tamarind and spices, creating a unique Goan version. A burst of flavour is provided through ‘Prawn Balchao’ — The Portuguese introduced this dish to Goa during their colonial rule, Balchão is characterised by its fiery and tangy flavour profile, achieved through a combination of red chilies, vinegar (often coconut or malt vinegar), and spices. It’s a kind of seafood pickle — traditionally made with prawns (camarão). Other meats like fish and pork along with vegetables can also be used in different versions of the Balchao.
A battery of desserts make-up for an absolutely exquisite line-up from the Goan stable. To kick off the list we have ‘Bebinca’ — also called the ‘Queen of Goan desserts’, it is a traditional Portuguese-influenced Goan dish made using ingredients like coconut milk, eggs, nutmeg, sugar, flour with some variations using vanilla essence or salt. The layering technique, with each layer cooked individually — is the dish’s characteristic feature. Bebinca is thought to have originated in 17th-century Goa, possibly created by a nun using leftover egg yolks, whatever the case, it’s simply delicious! And since we are talking about sweets, how can we overlook ‘Pinagr’ (also known as Pinaac or Pinaca) — a classic and traditional Goan sweet. It’s a beloved delicacy, especially during Christmas, and is made with just three main ingredients: red rice, coconut, and palm jaggery. The combination of these ingredients creates a subtly sweet, dark brown/blackish, soft, and slightly grainy dessert. It’s a dish that highlights that a rich flavour profile can be achieved using minimum ingredients. Then there is the heritage rich ‘Dodol’ — considered a classic Goan dessert with Portuguese influence. It’s a sweet, chewy confection made from coconut milk, jaggery, and rice flour. While its exact origins are debated, with some sources suggesting it’s also found in Southeast and Middle Eastern Asia, it’s a cherished part of Goan cuisine. Dodol is often enjoyed during Christmas and other festive occasions. We move on to ‘Godshem’, also known as ‘Atol’, is a classic Goan dessert. It is a traditional sweet dish made with rice, chana dal (split chickpeas), coconut milk, and jaggery, often flavoured with cardamom. It’s a popular treat, particularly enjoyed during tea time or on special occasions. The iconic and ubiquitous ‘Patoli’ also called ‘Patolyo’ or ‘Patoleo’ is a steamed rice cake or dumpling, typically stuffed with a sweet filling of coconut and jaggery, cardamom, and wrapped in fresh turmeric leaves — these impart a distinct flavour and aroma to the dish, traditionally enjoyed in the monsoon season. The mouth-watering ‘Kazarachi Soji,’ also known as ‘Goan Vhonn’ or ‘Vonn’, is another traditional Konkani sweet dish from Goa. It’s a sweet pudding often made with coconut milk, jaggery, and rice flour. This dish is commonly served at festive occasions, especially during pre-wedding rituals (like Bikrencheam Jevonn) or on religious days. The name “Kazarachi Dal” (or Soji) is derived from the Konkani word “kazar,” meaning wedding, as it’s frequently prepared before weddings.
While the list can go on, I would end mine with two more — ‘Tavsali’ or ‘Tavasali’, a classic Goan cucumber cake, a steamed cake made with grated cucumber, semolina (rava), jaggery, and coconut. It’s known for its mild sweetness and soft, moist texture, making it a popular treat, especially during summer, and ‘Goan Jackfruit Cake’ also called ‘Pansache Dhonas’ or ‘Pansachi Bhakri’ — a classic Goan dessert. It’s a steamed cake made with jackfruit pulp, rice rava (or semolina), jaggery and coconut. It is often enhanced with cardamom powder, ghee and sometimes — nuts.
A look at the state’s beverages and it screams unique. ‘Feni’ is a classic Goan beverage, a traditional alcoholic drink made from cashew apples or coconut sap, it has been produced in Goa for hundreds of years, and the recent Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Goan Feni further solidifies its status as a unique and culturally significant drink of the region. Feni is more than just a drink, it’s deeply embedded in Goan culture and is often enjoyed during celebrations, as a welcome drink, or even as an ingredient in local cuisine. Its two most popular varieties are ‘Cashew Feni’ and ‘Coconut Feni’. ‘Urraca’ (pronounced ‘Urrak’) is the first distil of fermented cashew juice. It is a light and flavourful alcoholic beverage available during March-May in Goa. It is also a very integral ingredient that goes into manufacturing of ‘cashew feni’ — the double distilled beverage made from fermented cashew in Goa, and one we have just read about. The state has those who don’t consume alcohol covered through ‘Niro’ — a classic beverage, often referred to as the state’s “best-kept summer secret”. It’s a non-alcoholic drink made from cashew apple juice, specifically the final extract before distillation. Niro is known for its refreshing taste and is popular among locals as a summer cooler. ‘Kokum juice’ is yet another traditional and popular beverage in Goa. It’s a refreshing and cooling drink, known for its digestive qualities — made from the kokum fruit (Malabar Tamarind), which is widely used in Goan cuisine, and enjoyed throughout the Konkan coast.
A state with eclectic sources of culinary influence, and one that provides for a most robust and distinctive flavour profile, I believe, is still in the nascent stages of culinary mainstreaming. I say this because quite frankly, how many of our children and youth have heard about a majority of dishes that I have mentioned? Its them, who have to take the lead, ensuring that the Goan cuisine passes muster at multiple levels, and that many more people are exposed to its numerous dimensions. This will be the launching pad of increased experimentation, exploration and incorporation of Goan dishes by our children and youth — as well as providing a great platform for the future generation. It’s up to them to strengthen the legacy or squander a great opportunity — it’s my conviction that they will choose the former.
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society)