Buddhist nuns kick and punch the thin mountain air as they practise the Chinese martial art in the compounds of Druk Gawa Khilwa Nunnery, set atop Druk Amitabha mountain in Kathmandu, Nepal. To mark His Holiness, the 12th Gyalwang Drukpa’s birthday celebrations, they even put together a grand show, says NAVNEET Mendiratta
As a child, it moved His Holiness the 12th Gyalwang Drukpa, the spiritual head of the 800-year-old Drukpa (or Dragon) order, to see the pitiful condition in which nuns lived in various nunneries across India and Tibet. Due to unspoken gender classification and patriarchal traditions, nuns were confined to doing only household chores at the monasteries and their voice was rarely heard. So he decided to change it all.
On a quiet mountain top, that is Amitabha Mountain, in accordance with the dreams of his late guru, he set up a nunnery where Buddhist nuns would get trained on par with the men. Thus came into being the Druk Gawa Khilwa (DGK) Nunnery near the Nepalese capital of Kathmandu.
A steep drive takes you atop this retreat where nuns are self-sufficient. They manage their lives with the same ease with which they meditate and pray.
Interestingly, the idea to introduce Kung Fu came after His Holiness visited Vietnam and saw female martial art practitioners pulling a neat punch. He even roped in a woman instructor to make sure there was no gender stereotyping as the nuns set out on the path of self-reliance. There has been no looking back since.
“They are my most powerful ambassadors,” he laughed while talking to us at the DGK nunnery a day before his birthday on March 11, 2014 (as per the lunar calendar). The celebrations were preceded by a six-day retreat and followed by a three-day eye camp.
Typically, the area surrounding the Druk Amitabha nunnery wakes up to the clear sounds of over 250 nuns practising Kung Fu, interspersed by the instructions handed out by their teacher. Their day starts at 3 am and after meditation and other prayer rituals, they swap their maroon robes for a smart maroon Kung fu dress with a yellow belt before lining up in neat rows at the open compound overlooking the Kathmandu valley.
The calm on the face is soon replaced with an intense look that reflects great concentration as they strive to strike the perfect pose and pack a neat punch at the imaginary opponent.
“Concentration is a key ingredient in meditation. Kung Fu not only makes them physically tough but mentally strong as well,” the Drukpa shared.
The youngest nun at the monastery is about nine years old and the oldest, about 60. As per the rules, it is mandatory for all nuns to learn Kung Fu unless they are medically unfit, unwell or very old. Most nuns in this nunnery come from remote places in Tibet, ladakh, lahaul, Bhutan and Sikkim. They repeat the lessons in the evening as well.
The DGK Nunnery is a great example of gender equality that is actively promoted by the Gyalwang Drukpa. From driving down to the city centre for groceries, to running a coffee shop, a souvenir shop and even a guesthouse, the entire establishment is being run independently by the resident nuns.
Several study medicine among other subjects and put their skills to use for the greater good. They also run a health clinic, which is open to the locals from surrounding villages and where they treat the patients using Western medicine as also by Tibetan and homeopathic methods. There is an eye clinic too. Given that those living in the higher reaches are most affected by blinding sun, cataract treatment is the most sought after here.
“Physical well-being is as important for the nuns as their spiritual well-being. I always wanted to see the nuns enjoy the same freedom as the monks — that they were as self-sufficient and financially independent. I am happy to see them happy,” His Holiness told a private audience. Outside, the nuns play perfect hosts to innumerable guests who have come from all over the world to greet their spiritual leader. This is one cheerful event and on several occasions giggles light up their beautiful faces. Happiness is the key to peaceful existence. It’s a powerful message we carry back home.