Chef Kunal Kapur talks to SHAlINI SAKSENA about what made him embark on the Pickle Nation journey, the most bizarre pickle he has tasted and why pickles are integral to Indian cuisine
Making a pickle is the epitome of culinary strength; it is an art that is combined with the science of food preservation. Around the world, we have celebrated wine-makers, cheese-makers and even coffee brewers but we have never given the same stature to pickle makers. In order to celebrate the pickle-makers of India, a unique journey was undertaken India’s pickle makers and their stories.
“Pickles originated in India. It was here that the art of cooking was taken to the higher level of science preservation. Food preservation is just an accompaniment for most of us. Seldom do we realise how it is the reason of our existence and a proof of the genius that exists in our country. There have been travel shows that talk about culture, food and places, but very seldom do you have a show that is all about the unsung accompaniments that make the meal complete. This show explores not just pickles but some unique pickle makers,” chef Kunal Kapur tells you.
The show, as he puts it, goes way beyond the process of pickle making. A common thread that the show talks about is that no pickle is complete without love, honesty and dedication. The depth of the taste and passion along with the personality of the pickle maker is the core to a pickle.
And there are information nuggets galore. For instance, with the Parsis in Ahmedabad it is mandatory to make lagan nu achar and give it to the elders and relatives before a marriage is formalised. The Karbi tribe from Meghalaya has evolved a special dance that enacts the recipe of the bamboo pickle. Their ancestors believed that if the bamboo was not pickled in the right season, it led to famine in winters.
“There are so many interesting facts of pickle origin that is explored in this series. First pickle was made in India by preserving cucumber in vinegar; the Bishnois were against cutting trees which was their source of timber and food so ber sangri was the fruit that was preserved for sustenance during extreme winters; Pickles are also made with yoghurt and water without using oil or vinegar,” Kunal tells you.
“It is believed that cucumbers were the first food to be pickled and eaten in the Tigris valley in India,” he adds, going on to some bizarre ones.
The most bizarre pickle, according to him, is Mahali which is made by Tamilian Brahmins. Mahali is a root that smells of intense vanilla, bitter almond and cinnamon and is pickled in yogurt. The unusual thing about it is its making. It is a miracle that no vinegar or oil is used yet the pickle survives for over two years in curd.
Chef Kunal’s favourite pickle is mango pickle because he grew up watching it being made and eaten. “It makes me connect with my mother. And the recipe is simple. Place the washed and cut mangoes on a white sheet and allow them to dry in the afternoon sun for two to three days. Mix these mangoes with salt, red chillies, turmeric, fenugreek seeds, nigella seeds, fennel seeds and mustard oil. Put the marinated mangoes in a jar and tie a fresh muslin cloth. Place this in the sun for 15 days. Make sure to shake the jar at regular intervals. Remember to put the jar in the sun in the morning and remove it before sunset. The resultant pickle will be awesome,” he tells you.