At the break of dawn, the first light fills the sky as I pull myself out from under my cosy duvet. I would have loved to stay tucked in a little longer, but the promised reward awaits the early bird and I slowly leave my comfort zone to saunter towards the pool. It’s still a bit dark when I get there, but as the first rays of the sun hit the Annapurna on the horizon, an inverted image appears in the reflection of the still waters in front of me. The sharp crown of Macchapuchare, the Fishtail mountain, gleams in the light of dawn and suddenly my marathon of a journey seems worth the sum of this moment— a train, two flights, and a taxi ride later, I feel blessed to finally be under the shadow of this iconic mountain, witnessing this morning magic.
Looking straight at the Annapurna range, Tiger Mountain Pokhra Lodge sits strategically on a ridge at above a thousand metres, high above Nepal’s popular lake town Pokhra. I am ushered to my cottage soon after I check in— a petite, independent, stone lodging, complete with a lovely, semi-covered sit out with large wooden windows, slate roofs, and above all, endless wilderness all around. Inside, the simply furnished cottage has an aesthetic charm that appeals to my minimalist taste. The rustic, muted colours blend in with the earthiness the place is ensconced in. A little flashlight, emergency lamp and flask, and even an earthquake alarm, a must-have in Nepal, add to the thoughtfully drawn out list of amenities. The no-fuss room reflects the ethos of the place, and more importantly, lends itself to the principles of conservation the story of the lodge is rooted in, explained to me by manager Jhalak Chaudhary, who has been with TMPL since it opened in 1998.
The lodge was born of a collaboration between two of the greatest minds in Nepal’s conservation story, the legendary Jim Edwards who shaped the notable Tiger Tops in Chitwan National Park, and Jimmy Roberts, the founder of Mountain Travel, Nepal’s first trekking company which led an unsuccessful attempt on Machhapuchhare in 1964 after which the Nepal government declared the peak out of bounds for climbers. The two joined hands to create this eco lodge on Prince Charles’ ‘royal trek’ route in 1980, a project seen through by Edwards’ son. The lodge follows that vision and a strict sustainability model till date; from biodegradable cosmetics to organic sanitising and chemical-free chlorine for the pool, it goes beyond the regular green drill. It also jointly supports the village nearby with its drinking water supply and community forest efforts, health and education, and is affiliated with some of the world’s most select regenerative tourism groups.
Come evening, I hit the main lounge’s cosy reading corner complete with a fireplace, to browse through alpine journals and the collection of Colonel Jimmy Roberts. Soon, its time for dinner in the beautifully done dining area with its high ceilings, floral decor, flickering candles, and low chatter over soup and breadsticks. I’ve had an incredibly satiating Nepali thali for lunch basking in the afternoon sun, so a vegetable bake and banana toffee pudding washed down with a glass of red wine, finish my food journey for the day wonderfully well. I join fellow guests Talie Wood and her daughter for my meal, along with another elderly British couple who are repeat guests of the lodge, with whom I discuss the diversity of Nepal, the charm of this little lake town, and most of all, the magnetism of Tiger Mountain. It comes as no surprise to me that the place has a long list of faithful guests who are drawn to it repeatedly. From its structure to its staff, much of it goes a long way back, making the hospitality something repeat visitors turn towards time and again.
Early next morning, I start my birding walk with Saajan Rana Bhatt, the in-house naturalist who is more of a shapeshifter with his innate ability to mimic bird calls. A thrilling hour later, I return to the poolside to admire that perfect reflection of the inverted Fishtail one more time. It’s a clearer day today, and from the imposing Dhaulagiri to Lamjung and the climbing favourite Manaslu, many more peaks are visible today. At breakfast, the smiles are a tad bit more familiar. I’m served my eggs exactly the way I like them, with a side of toast and a spread of homemade jams and the most heady organic coffee. I’m a bit more at home today, and a bit more floored than the previous day. And that, perhaps, is the biggest charm of Tiger Mountain— it grows on you a wee bit more, with every passing day. For more details, log on to www.tigermountainpokhara.