When we think of a Rajasthani Thali the first thing that comes in our mind is aroma of desi ghee floating out of puris, missi roti, Gatte ki sabji, dal and sangria ki sabji with rich flavour and even richer the taste.
The cuisine from Rajasthan is primarily vegetarian and offers a fabulous variety of mouthwatering dishes. But can a foodie fond of Marwari Basha find the same while roaming on the streets now-a-days. The simple but unfortunate answer is a big no!
Slowly it is witnessed that the craze for Rajasthani traditional food started showing a diminishing graph and are being replaced by fast foods like burger, pizza, and Chinese cuisines in the plate. Younger generation of the traditional families has developed their taste for exotic foods and thus taken a dent on the whole custom and tradition of the eatery in Ranchi, the city with the sizable number of Marwaris.
Owner of Marwari Kalevalaya, Rajesh Kumar Sharma says, “My grandfather migrated from Seekar (Rajesthan) to Ranchi and he was the first one to open a Marwari Basha here.
A complete Thali priced for just Rs 25 only was offered with no limit in food consumption. This concept was booming in the city. But with the passing times fast foods, Italian and Chinese cuisines and others overshadowed these traditional Thalis, and people are now more inclined towards these fast foods”.
Cooking style followed in Rajasthan that was based on the natural climatic conditions and availability of resources such as milk, butter milk and butter have their imprints on Marwari foods in Ranchi. Dried lentils and beans obtained from native plants sangria are extensively used as green vegetables though are difficult to find there. But it more the changing taste buds and food habits that have given a hit.
Owner of Churuwala, lalit Agrawal said, “I think the biggest reason for the downfall of Marwari Bashas is that people of our community started showing lowered interest towards our tradition. It has been seen that Marwari’s are the only people who is adopting and practicing culture of different communities while ignoring their own.”
Also coming in the way is consciousness about health, especially among youngster. They prefer to have food which is rich in nutrition and not in calorie. Ghee floating on foods is a complete no-no for them. But the subtle change has added to the woes the Bashas are living with.
Though, the tougher days have made room for certain corrections and modifications for their very survival. The Bashas are transformed into small hotels where foods are available of people’s choice. Onion and garlic are making their way into the kitchen is now preparing just to give their customers the taste of their choice.
President of FJCCI (Federation of Jharkhand Chamber of Commerce and Industries), Ranjit Tibrewal also echoes the observation. “Marwari Bashas are replaced by modern hotels as now comfort factor has become the prime concern for the people. Earlier the food served there was served with love and generosity. Now self service culture is prevailing with changing taste that is the biggest reason behind depleting popularity of Marwari Bashas”.