WHAT WE OWE THE PLACES WE LOVE

In recent years, Indian tourists have earned a certain reputation abroad for treating destinations as backdrops rather than places with their own rhythms, ecologies and communities to respect. We litter on trails that we claim to love. We haggle prices down to an embarrassing level, unmindful of the sustainability of local livelihoods. We show up at sacred sites in beachwear and treat wildlife sanctuaries like our backyards, making noises and disregarding safety.

Worse, we act entitled, are loud and disrespectful of others. None of this is malicious, exactly. It is carelessness born of habit, the assumption that a holiday suspends the rules of decency we would never break at home. And when the backlash happens, we want to dissociate. We don’t like that someone called out and promptly term it racism. Being a responsible traveller isn't complicated. It means researching a place before arriving in it — its customs, its fragility, its limits. It means packing out what you pack in, tipping fairly and asking before you photograph someone's grandmother. It means recognising that the mountain you are climbing for a weekend is someone else's entire watershed.

To introduce our issue, our cover story follows the punishing climb to the Valley of Flowers and the twin pilgrimages of Hemkunt Sahib and Badrinath, where devotion and altitude sickness compete for your attention in equal measure.

In Assam, we trace how Durga Puja unfolds along the Brahmaputra, distinct from its Bengal cousin. Deep in Tadoba's buffer zones, we spend time with the Gond tribes whose forest knowledge predates every tiger reserve boundary drawn around them. There's a listicle on India's quietly growing night tourism scene, for travellers who prefer their monuments moonlit.

And on the road, our auto desk takes the Volvo EX90 through its paces and finds it to be an odd, unexpectedly likeable marriage of Swedish restraint and Chinese engineering muscle.

As I sign off, I hope that wherever this issue takes you next, you go gently. The places we love can only take so much loving.

IN SEPTEMBER, WORLD GETS FESTIVE

The month ushers in a season of unbridled celebration, where cities across continents throw open their streets, squares and screens for the world to join in. From centuries-old traditions to contemporary spectacles, culture spills into the open, inviting travellers in. Here are some of the most exciting celebrations to catch around the globe.

OKTOBERFEST, GERMANY Venue: Theresienwiese, Munich Dates: September 19, 2026 - October 4, 2026 The thrill begins long before the first Maß is raised, as Munich prepares to welcome the world to the 191st Oktoberfest, the largest folk festival on the planet. For 16 days, Theresienwiese turns into a whirl of grand beer tents, Bavarian music, hearty food and exhilarating fairground rides. The opening ceremony, when Munich’s mayor taps the first keg with the famous cry of ‘Ozapft is!’, is a spectacle in itself. Beyond the celebrations, travellers can soak up Munich’s unmistakable Bavarian character and put a tick off on their travel checklist.

LA MERCÈ, SPAIN Venue: Various locations across Barcelona, Spain Dates: September 23, 2026 - September 27, 2026 The thrill of seeing an entire city turn into one giant celebration is what makes La Mercè such a special reason to visit Barcelona. Held in honour of the city’s patron saint, the festival fills streets and squares with concerts, human towers, giants and traditional Catalan celebrations. More than 100 concerts are planned across the 2026 edition, with artists from around the world adding a contemporary pulse to the festivities.

RIO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL, BRAZIL Venue: Various cinemas and cultural venues across Rio de Janeiro Date: October 1, 2026 - October 11, 2026 The thrill of discovering a film before it becomes the next big talking point makes the Rio International Film Festival a tempting reason to visit Brazil. The festival brings premieres, competitive screenings, international selections, special screenings and conversations with filmmakers to cinemas across Rio. The 2026 edition opens with Rosebush Pruning, starring Callum Turner, Riley Keough and Elle Fanning. Between screenings, travellers can trade cinema seats for Rio’s beaches, viewpoints and lively neighbourhoods, for a full Brazilian escape.

LOYALTY THAT REWARDS MORE

For the luxury traveller, loyalty is no longer simply about collecting points. The right hotel programme can turn a stay in India into a suite upgrade in Europe, breakfast in Asia or a few extra hours before a late flight home. From global hotel empires to Indian hospitality icons, these seven programmes offer privileges that make every stay a little more rewarding.

MARRIOTT BONVOY With 30+ brands across 140+ countries, Marriott Bonvoy offers best choices, from St. Regis and The Ritz-Carlton to W Hotels and JW Marriott. These deals keep on getting better when global events like World Cup roll up. Benefits: Room upgrades, complimentary breakfast/lounge access, suite upgrades.

WORLD OF HYATT A favourite among luxury travellers, Hyatt brings together Park Hyatt, Andaz and Alila, among others. Its upper tiers make stays notably more indulgent. Benefits: Suite upgrades, complimentary breakfast or club access, 4 pm late checkout, resort-fee waivers on eligible award stays.

SHANGRI-LA CIRCLE Rooted in Asian hospitality, Shangri-La Circle rewards loyal guests with increasingly personal privileges across its international portfolio. Benefits: Complimentary breakfast, room upgrades, Club Lounge access at Diamond, flexible early check-in/late checkout, welcome amenities at eligible properties.

HILTON HONORS With Waldorf Astoria, Conrad and LXR in its portfolio, Hilton Honors combines global reach with elite privileges. Benefits: Space-available upgrades, complimentary breakfast at eligible properties, executive lounge access, 4 pm checkout at Diamond Reserve.

LEELA DISCOVERY The Leela's programme connects Indian luxury with GHA DISCOVERY's network of 1,000+ hotels across around 100 countries. Benefits: DISCOVERY Dollars for stays and experiences, room upgrades, early check-in, late check-out, dining & spa rewards.

TAJ INNERCIRCLE For frequent Taj guests, NeuPass turns familiarity into privilege across Taj and IHCL properties in India and select international destinations. Benefits: NeuCoins on eligible spending, room upgrades, lounge access at higher tiers, dining and spa savings.

RADISSON REWARDS With a particularly strong Indian footprint and an extensive international network, Radisson Rewards offers straightforward rewards for frequent stays. Benefits: Member rates, Room upgrades, Complimentary breakfast at VIP level, VIP access and dedicated support.

THE FINNISH WAY OF LIFE

If Finland is on your travel list, it may be time to look beyond the usual Helsinki itinerary and head further north. In Finnish Lapland, Rovaniemi is emerging as a destination that is finding new ways to draw travellers through every season. Known around the world as the Official Hometown of Santa Claus, the Arctic city is now growing well beyond its winter identity. The numbers tell part of the story. Rovaniemi Airport handled 1.1 million passengers in 2025, an 18.4 per cent rise, while Santa Claus Village welcomed nearly 7,90,000 visitors. India is also among the destination’s strongest growth markets. Yet the real appeal lies in what is changing on the ground. New hotels and accommodation are expanding the choice of stays, air connectivity is improving and fresh attractions are being planned. At the same time, Rovaniemi’s summer is gaining momentum, offering long daylight hours, the Midnight Sun, nature and a slower Arctic rhythm. This is a destination in the midst of an exciting transformation.

ROVANIEMI UNDER THE MIDNIGHT SUN

Forget the idea that Rovaniemi belongs only to snow and winter. Summer reveals an entirely different side of the Arctic, when the landscape trades its white blanket for forests, greenery and almost endless daylight. The Midnight Sun season runs from June 6 to July 7, bringing 24 hours of daylight, while July continues to offer remarkably bright nights.

This makes the season ideal for experiencing Rovaniemi at a gentler pace. Travellers can hike through forests, cycle beneath the Midnight Sun, discover local food and culture, explore museums and galleries or simply settle into the Finnish way of slowing down. Even Santa Claus Village remains open, offering visitors the chance to meet Santa without the peak winter crowds. With summer arrivals and overnight stays reaching new highs in 2025, Rovaniemi is proving that its magic does not disappear when the snow melts.

WHERE STAYING IS AN EXPERIENCE

Santa Claus may have put Rovaniemi firmly on the global travel map, but the city is now building a wider collection of reasons to visit. A major addition is the planned Moomin-themed attraction at Santa Claus Village, bringing two of Finland’s most recognisable characters together. The attraction is also expected to encourage visits beyond the peak winter period. The accommodation scene is expanding alongside these new experiences. Santa’s Hotel Noelle will add 101 rooms and suites in the city center when it opens in February 2027, while Elves Hotels Santa Claus Village is set to open its first phase with 33 apartments, each featuring a private sauna, in December 2026.

Glass igloos add another dimension to the Arctic stay, with glass roofs offering uninterrupted views of the Northern Lights, winter skies and the snow-covered landscape while keeping travellers warm and comfortable.

WINTER RIDES AND ADVENTURES

Winter is when Rovaniemi truly steps into its Arctic character. Snow-covered forests become the setting for husky sled rides, reindeer sleigh journeys and snowmobile safaris, while the Northern Lights add another layer of magic to the long, dark evenings. Travellers can head into the wilderness for a husky ride, meet reindeer and learn about the traditional life of Lapland, or explore frozen landscapes on snowshoes and snowmobiles.

But the Finnish approach to winter is not only about adventure. It is also about slowing down and warming up. Sauna experiences range from traditional wood-heated saunas to lakeside settings and even ice saunas, with some experiences combining a hot sauna with an Arctic dip. At places such as North Resort, an outdoor sauna pavilion looks out over the wilderness, while Áila Hideaway offers the more rustic ritual of heating your own cabin and sauna.

INTO THE VALLEY OF GODS

Wildflowers, glacial landscapes, sacred lakes and ancient shrines shape a journey through one of Uttarakhand’s most spectacular corners. Navneet Mendiratta takes the trail from Badrinath to Gurdwara Shri Hemkunt Sahib and the Valley of Flowers, where the landscape is as much a part of the experience as the destinations themselves

The rotor blades cut into the Dehradun morning just after six, and within minutes the foothills fell away beneath the chopper like a folded map opening itself out. This was not the leisurely unspooling of a road trip, where each turn earns its view. The helicopter to Gauchar compresses geography into fifty minutes — the Alaknanda appearing and vanishing beneath clouds, pine ridges stacking into grey-green corduroy, a village or two flashing by, gone before I could name them. This is the second time I had flown into pilgrimage, my first being Kedarnath a couple of years ago.

And honestly, I can’t thank the UDAN scheme enough for making pilgrimage accessible for people who cannot endure physical strain, whether because of age, health or plain mental block.

My ride was Heritage Aviation’s Airbus H130, a single- engine helicopter with a noticeably wider cabin and wraparound windows that put every seat within reach of a view rather than reserving it for whoever sits up front. The enclosed Fenestron tail rotor trimmed out most of the vibration and clatter that usually punctuates a chopper ride, so what stayed with me was the landscape, not the machinethat carried me over it.

Gauchar’s airstrip sits in a bowl of mountains, unremarkable until you remember what it saves you: two days of hairpin driving compressed into breakfast. From there, the road to Badrinath took over, and I was glad of it. Some places should still make you work a little. The route hugs the Alaknanda for most of its length, past Joshimath’s terraced slopes, through tunnels blasted into rock that opened suddenly onto views of a valley narrowing with altitude. By the time Badrinath’s temple came into sight, that unmistakable saffron-and-blue frontage against the Nar-Narayan range, the light had turned the particular gold that high Himalayan afternoons keep to themselves.

DEVOTION AT ALTITUDE

I will not pretend the temple town is peaceful in the way brochures promise. Badrinath is loud with devotion: bells, chants, the hiss of Tapt Kund’s hot springs where pilgrims bathe before entering, steam rising into cold air like something alive. I queued with the rest, the stone floor warm under bare feet from bodies that had stood there before mine, and inside the sanctum the priest’s chanting folded into a rhythm older than any itinerary. What stayed with me wasn’t the darshan itself, brief as these always are, but the time I spent within the temple, immersing myself in kirtan that was being held at one of the compounds. These are the moments when you just surrender, empty out the load that you have been carrying within and before you know, you are healed.

As I walked back out, the Alaknanda roared below the temple and Neelkanth peak caught the last sun. My eyes skimmed over pilgrims of every age who sat along the ghats simply watching the water, in no hurry to leave. As it is, the hotels at such pilgrim towns are focussed on comfort over luxury forweary pilgrims. I was parked at Hotel Royal Badri - a Pilgrim’s Habitat for the night. What warmed me to the place was its hospitality concept that centred around the needs of the pilgrims in sync with the devotional mood of the moment. Equipped with ritual-ready spaces, clean and quiet rooms, were perfect to shake off travel fatigue and provided the comfort that one sought after an intense spiritual experience. Fresh after a long bath, I savoured the most amazing Kumaoni thaali, prepared on request by the kitchen team. A perfect end to an emotionally heavy day.

THE SECOND LEG

I set off for Govind Ghat by road the next morning. This is the gateway for both Shri Hemkunt Sahib and the Valley of Flowers, and the town exists almost entirely in service of that fact: mule handlers, porters, small dhabas selling parathas to trekkers before dawn. I had expected to walk the 13 kilometres to Ghangria. An old knee injury made that unwise, so I took the chopper instead, a short hop that trades a full day's trek for eight minutes over pine forest and waterfalls that the walking route only glimpses sideways. Pawan Hans runs the shuttle service that can be booked in advance and at the spot, depending on availability. There is a particular guilt in flying past a trail that pilgrims twice your age are walking on foot, prayer flags tied to their sticks. I felt it, and flew anyway. Ghangria itself is a base camp with a pilgrimage’s worth of order to it. Everyone there is headed somewhere higher the next morning, and the evenings have a bustle to them, wood smoke, the murmur of langar being prepared, boots drying by small stoves before an early start and massage services for weary feet that have endured the arduous trek. I chose Shri Hemkunt Sahib first, six kilometres of steady climb to a lake at over 4,300 metres, ringed by seven snow peaks that give the gurdwara its name. The deep spiritual importance of Shri Hemkunt Sahib is rooted in the Sikh scripture Dasam Granth. In it, the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh, mentions that in a previous incarnation as Dusht Daman, he performed long and intense meditation at a place surrounded by seven snow-capped peaks — a site known as Hemkunt Parbat Sapt Sring. The site remained hidden for centuries due to its extreme geography. It was in the early 1930s, that Sant Sohan Singh, a retired army soldier and devout Sikh scholar, meticulously researched the descriptions in the scriptures and explored the Garhwal Himalayas until he successfully identified the glacial lake. What makes it even more distinct is that Shri Hemkunt Sahib is built in a distinct pentagonal shape. It was architecturally designed to withstand the heavy winter snow and harsh Himalayan conditions. The cold at that altitude has a clarity that no amount of description quite carries across. It simply arrives, along with the sound of the Guru Granth Sahib being recited across still water, and the sight of other Sikh pilgrims, many far older than me, completing a circuit I was already finding difficult. I sat by the lake longer than planned and soaked in the peace that was almost surreal. The gurdwara premises are cleared out at 2 pm everyday, allowing pilgrims to make a safe descent. Altitude can be a challenge for pilgrims and you are advised to stay suitably hydrated. For those who cannot make it on foot, there are pony and pitthu services that allow you to choose how to complete your journey over giving up. Just make sure to book at the base to avoid having to succumb to inflated rates should you wish to switch midway. Next to the gurdwara, lies an ancient temple where Lakshman is believed to have meditated. It marks the believed site where Lakshman performed penance and meditation to recover his strength after defeating Meghnad in the Ramayana.

TREKKER’S PARADISE

The Valley of Flowers, the next day, asked for patience of a different kind. It reveals itself slowly. You walk through forest and moraine for the better part of two hours before the meadow opens, and even then the flowers arrive in waves rather than all at once: blue poppies first, then anemones, then the deeper reds of Indian paintbrush further in, depending on where the monsoon has reached that week. Then there is the Brahma Kamal, a rare species that only grows in this region. Itis also the national flower of Uttarakhand. I had read that late July catches it at its fullest. Exhaustion washed all over me as I completed this leg, but there was peace at having completed the circuit. The return chopper from Ghangria to Govind Ghat closed the loop the way these journeys often do, quickly, almost too quickly, the valley shrinking below until it was only a green crease among white peaks. Watching it go, I thought of how differently the same stretch of Himalaya had unfolded depending on whether I had walked it, driven it, or flown it. Each mode gave up a different truth but together, it made for an experience that will remain etched in my memory for a lifetime.

Uttarakhand’s Sacred Heights

In Uttarakhand, pilgrimage begins long before the first prayer. It gathers meaning in the mountains, in the anticipation of darshan and in the quiet resolve to reach a sacred place. A long time Helicopter journeys bring a new ease to this experience, allowing devotees to conserve time and energy for what draws them here: faith, reflection and the moment of arrival.

Making pilgrimage easier

Uttarakhand has gradually expanded helicopter services to make pilgrimage easier. In February 2020, the state’s first services under the UDAN scheme connected Sahastradhara with Gauchar on the route to Badrinath and with Chinyalisaur on the route to Gangotri. Financial support from the central and state governments helped keep fares affordable. In July 2020, Pawan Hans launched services connecting Dehradun, New Tehri, Srinagar and Gauchar, with fares announced at INR 2,900 per seat. By February 2024, the Civil Aviation Ministry reported that seven heliports had opened in Uttarakhand.

The Char Dham route

For Kedarnath, shuttles from Guptkashi, Phata and Sirsi offer an alternative to the demanding 16-kilometre ascent from Gaurikund. Pilgrims seeking a broader itinerary can also explore charter journeys from Dehradun that cover Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, and Badrinath, or the Kedarnath–Badrinath circuit. The appeal is a pilgrimage shaped around greater ease, with more energy for worship at its heart.

A sacred ascent to Hemkund Sahib

For Sikh pilgrims, Hemkund Sahib offers another deeply spiritual journey, its gurudwara beside a glacial lake associatedwith Guru Gobind Singh Ji. The Govindghat-Ghangaria helicopter route shortens the approach to this revered shrine. Flights end at Ghangaria; the final ascent to Hemkund Sahib remains approximately six kilometres, undertaken on foot or with available assistance.

Supporting the pilgrims

Chief Minister Pushkar Singh Dhami’s government has supported access during difficult periods, too. In August 2024, after heavy rain damaged the Kedarnath approach, he announced a 25% helicopter-fare discount, funded by the state. This targeted response helped make aerial pilgrimage more affordable while the government worked to restore the yatra route.

The network that keeps faith moving

Public and private operators sustain this network. UCADA lists Heritage Aviation on regional routes including Haldwani- Pithoragarh and Pithoragarh-Almora. IRCTC lists Thumby Aviation, Himalayan Heli, Trans Bharat Aviations and Chipsan Aviation for Kedarnath, and Pawan Hans for Govindghat-Ghangaria. Together, regional links and pilgrimage shuttles support different stages of the journey to Uttarakhand’s sacred places. Pilgrims register through Uttarakhand’s Tourist Care portal before booking authorised shuttles through IRCTC Heli Yatra. Weather, seasonal availability and onward travel remain part of the planning. The reward is an enduring one: reaching a place held close in faith, with greater ease along the way. In Uttarakhand, the faith journey will always remain as meaningful as the destination itself. Helicopter services simply make the path easier, allowing pilgrims to arrive with more time and energy for prayer, reflection and devotion.

India’s Best Nocturnal Escapes

As night falls, India transforms into a playground of stars, glowing shores, moonlit deserts and mysterious forests. Ayandrali Dutta explores the country’s most enchanting after-dark experiences

When the sun goes down, a different side of India awakens. From elusive nocturnal wildlife and glowing coastlines to star-studded Himalayan skies and moonlit jungle trails, the country's most extraordinary experiences often begin after dark. With India's first Night Safari at Kukrail Reserve Forest in Lucknow, recently getting a nod by the Supreme Court, India’s nocturnal adventure is going to see a new high. Spread across the ecologically rich Kukrail Reserve, the INR 1,510-crore project promises immersive moonlight-inspired safaris, naturalistic animal habitats, eco-tourism. But the Kukrail project is only the beginning. Across the country, travellers are discovering that the best adventures don't always happen in daylight. Whether it's tracking wildlife under the stars, witnessing bioluminescent beaches, camping beneath the Milky Way, India offers a host of unforgettable after-dark experiences. Here are some of the best nocturnal adventure for travel enthusiast.

HANLE, LADAKH India's Window to the Darkest Skies

Hanle, tucked away in the remote Changthang region of Ladakh, offers an equally mesmerising experience for skywatchers. During periods of intense solar activity, the region has occasionally recorded faint aurora-like glows illuminating its pristine Himalayan skies, an exceptionally rare phenomenon in India. Hanle is also home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, one of the highest observatories in the world, making it a premier destination for astrophotography and stargazing. Its high altitude, dry climate, minimal light pollution and crystal-clear nights create ideal conditions for observing the Milky Way, meteor showers and distant galaxies. Best time to visit: between May and September, specifically during the New Moon phase and late at night

MAGICAL OF BIOLUMINESCENT BEACHES OF GOKARNA AND GOA

As darkness falls, select beaches along the coasts of Goa and Gokarna occasionally transform into shimmering blue wonderlands. This enchanting phenomenon is caused by bioluminescent phytoplankton — tiny marine organisms that emit a soft neon-blue glow when disturbed by waves or footsteps along the shore. Sightings are seen most likely after the monsoon when nutrient-rich waters encourage plankton growth. In Goa, beaches such as Betalbatim, Colva and parts of South Goa have reported sightings, while Gokarna's quieter shores occasionally experience the same natural phenomenon. Best time to visit: September to November, especially on moonless nights with clear skies.

PURUSHWADI, MAHARASHTRA: A FOREST THAT TWINKLES WITH FIREFLIES

For a few magical weeks every year, the sleepy tribal village of Purushwadi in Maharashtra's Ahmednagar district transforms into one of India's most enchanting natural spectacles. As dusk settles over the forests, thousands of fireflies emerge, synchronising their tiny flashes into a dazzling display that lights up trees, meadows and village trails. The phenomenon is part of the insects' annual mating ritual, creating what feels like a living galaxy on Earth. Purushwadi offers visitors the chance to experience nature at its most captivating through guided night walks. The annual Kajwa (Firefly) Festival has also helped promote responsible eco-tourism while supporting the local community. To preserve this fragile ecosystem, visitors are encouraged to avoid flash photography, bright torches and loud noises during the experience. Best time to visit: Late May to mid-June, just before the onset of the monsoon, when firefly activity is at its peak.

CAMPING UNDER THE STARS IN JAISALMER

Spending a night at the Thar Desert beneath its dazzling canopy of stars is surely an experience of lifetime. The golden sand dunes around Jaisalmer offer crystal-clear skies where countless stars, constellations and even the occasional shooting star come into view. The experience begins with a camel safari across the dunes, followed by a breathtaking sunset, folk music and traditional Rajasthani cuisine at a desert camp. Best time to visit: October to February, especially during with full moon nights

RANN OF KUTCH, GUJARAT: MOONLIT WALKS ACROSS AN ENDLESS WHITE DESERT

Few places in India are as magical after sunset as the Great Rann of Kutch. As the moon rises over the vast expanse of shimmering white salt flats, the landscape transforms into an ethereal dreamscape where the horizon seems to disappear into silver. During a full moon, the desert glows under natural moonlight, creating an almost surreal illusion of walking across a frozen sea or a blanket of snow. The silence, broken only by the gentle desert breeze, makes the experience deeply meditative and unforgettable. Visitors can take guided moonlit walks, enjoy cultural performances, stargaze beneath crystal-clear SHINING STARS During a full moon, the desert glows under natural moonlight, creating an almost surreal illusion of walking across a frozen sea or a blanket of snow. Visitors can take guided moonlit walks, stargaze beneath crystal-clear skies and do so much more. skies and soak in the unique beauty of one of the world's largest salt deserts. Best time to visit: November to February, with full moon nights offering the most spectacular experience.

India, Curated by Netflix

A decade of Netflix in India turns storytelling into a new way to inspire travel, writes Abhi Singhal

India is a land of stories, and Netflix is helping those stories inspire travel. As Netflix marks 10 years in India, Union Minister for Tourism and Culture, Gajendra Singh Shekhawat and Netflix Co-CEO Ted Sarandos came together to celebrate the power of storytelling in taking India to the world. Their shared vision now takes shape through ‘As Seen on Netflix’, a special section on the Incredible India website that encourages audiences to discover the real places, cultures and experiences behind stories on screen. From India’s magnificent heritage and diverse traditions to its spectacular wildlife and landscapes, Netflix will help turn powerful stories into an invitation to explore Incredible India.

CELEBRATING CULTURE AND HERITAGE

From the grandeur of Heeramandi and the artistic world of Qala to the cultural roots explored in Kantara, Netflix showcases the many traditions and stories that shape India’s rich heritage.

WILD INDIA, ON SCREEN India’s spectacular wildlife and natural landscapes find a compelling showcase through Netflix stories. The Elephant Whisperers takes viewers into the forests of the Nilgiris and the intimate world of elephants, while Kaziranga and Madhumalai National Park bring India’s rich biodiversity into focus. Titles such as Made in Korea little things.

Season 4 also feature the country’s varied landscapes and outdoor settings, offering viewers glimpses of places that invite exploration beyond the screen.

Guwahati’s Season of Shakti

A homecoming to Guwahati during Durga Puja hits different. Satarupa Paul finds her childhood memories come alive in a city that has changed but retains its festive spirit

Some of my core memories of Durga Puja while growing up in Guwahati in the 90s are of the preparations leading up to it. Pandals would spring up in every nook and corner of what was then a sleepy, lush green and utterly charming little city. At home, we’d make lists of every relative, friend and domestic worker to gift new clothes to, before Father would pack us all into our little car for a day of Puja shopping at Fancy Bazaar, the city’s biggest and busiest market. Saris, shirts, trousers, frocks, jeans and tops would be carefully picked out, gift-wrapped and loaded into the car, ready to be delivered over the next few days. Shopping done, we’d stuff ourselves with hot cutlets, rolls and sizzlers from iconic shops and then head to the Brahmaputra ghat to watch the sun set in a burst of colours over one of the largest rivers in the world, as ferries glided between North and South Guwahati. Finally Shashti, the first day of Puja, would arrive, when the idols were brought into the pandals with much fanfare, marking the beginning of five days of unabashed celebration. Mornings meant pushpanjali at the neighbourhood pandal, afternoons were reserved for bhog followed by the post-lunch siesta that is a mandatory practice all over Assam, Puja or not. Evenings meant dressing up in our new festive clothes and pandal- hopping across the city. The bigger pandals competed every year to create increasingly elaborate themes and decorations, often incorporating local and eco-friendly materials such as bamboo, cane, jute etc, drawing crowds from across Guwahati and neighbouring towns. My sister’s and my favourite was the one with mechanised idols that moved to enact scenes of good triumphing over evil.

In between the pandal-hopping, there were dhunuchi dances, singing competitions, poetry recitations and enough neighbourhood festivities to keep us occupied from morning to night. And then there was the food. Rows of makeshift stalls outside every pandal would dish out everything from kathi rolls, puchkas, chaats, chops and cutlets to noodles, momo and biryani, while restaurants across the city would roll out special Puja menus and offers. There was something about those five days that made every outing feel like an occasion, and before we knew it, Dashami would arrive, bringing with it a sense of sadness. Dressed in white and red, the women and girls would return to the neighbourhood pandal to bid farewell to the goddess and her children with sindoor khela. Later, we’d line up to watch the procession by the Brahmaputra, waving teary-eyed goodbyes as truck after truck carried the idols towards the river for visarjan.

Guwahati has changed enormously since those days: more high-rises and flyovers, fewer trees and pretty Assam-type houses, and considerably more chaos. The quaint town of my childhood is long gone. But the fervour with which Guwahati celebrates, especially Bihu and Durga Puja, remains wonderfully unchanged. Contrary to popular perception in much of India, Durga Puja is not limited to West Bengal or Bengalis alone. It is celebrated with great gusto across Eastern India, with Assam hosting some of the biggest celebrations after West Bengal, and Guwahati some of the grandest pandals outside Kolkata. Which is why, even today, Durga Puja remains my favourite time of year to return to my hometown. And if you too happen to find yourself in Guwahati during Puja, there is far more to experience beyond pandal-hopping.

DISCOVERING GUWAHATI ANEW

Kamakhya, the city’s most iconic landmark, sits atop Nilachal Hill and is one of India’s most important Shakti shrines. The Brahmaputra, meanwhile, is as much a part of Guwahati’s identity as the goddess herself, and a sunset cruise offers a particularly beautiful perspective of the river, with Umananda, the world’s smallest river island and home to a historic Shiva temple, making for a memorable stop along the way. For a glimpse into Assam’s history and culture, the Mahabahu Brahmaputra River Heritage Centre, housed in a restored 170-year- old heritage bungalow overlooking the river, offers an evocative look at the city’s relationship with its great waterway. Srimanta Sankardev Kalakshetra, meanwhile, brings together Assam’s art, music, literature and traditions within a sprawling cultural complex.

The city still has a surprising amount of green and blue spaces left, from tranquil Dighalipukhuri lake in the heart of town to its many parks and smaller waterbodies, offering pockets of calm amid the urban bustle. On the southwestern edge, Deepor Beel offers a more expansive escape: Assam’s only Ramsar site, the vast wetland is an important habitat for resident and migratory birds, with the winter months particularly rewarding for birdwatchers.

OF SILK, TEA AND GOOD FOOD

Shopping, too, is part of the Guwahati experience. GS Road is the city’s main modern retail hub, while Ambari, near the Assam State Museum, has several well-curated options for Assam’s traditional crafts and textiles. Pragjyotika Assam Emporium and Purbashree stock Assamese mekhela sadors, Muga, Eri and Paat silks, bamboo and cane work, bell-metal artefacts and handicrafts from across the Northeast. For a more contemporary take, Lahé Looms and The Copo offer regional handlooms, homeware and crafts, while Assam tea, naturally, makes for an easy souvenir to take home.

Guwahati’s food scene has evolved considerably too, although Assamese cuisine remains at its heart. Paradise, which has been serving traditional Assamese food since 1984, is a good introduction, while Michinga, Mising Kitchen and Gam’s Delicacy offer their own takes on the region’s diverse cuisines. For something more intimate, home-style supper clubs and chef- led experiences have also found a following. The city also boasts an eclectic mix of riverside cafés, breweries, tea lounges, pubs and restaurants offering everything from Japanese, Continental and American to Pan Asian, Italian and Mexican.

It’s a very different Guwahati from the one I knew as a child, but perhaps that is what makes returning during Puja so special: the city may keep changing, but for five days every year, it still feels a lot like home.

Guardians of Tadoba

In Tadoba, the Gond community’s ancient bond with the forest reveals a different and a caring world. Shoma Abhyankar travels through the reserve to discover its original keepers

A lump of clay painted yellow and black vaguely resembling a tiger sits at the corner of a bend inside the forest. An incense stick burns besides the offering of flowers near the crudely shaped deity. I am inside the buffer zone of Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve on an early morning safari and a shrine inside the forest piques my curiosity. “This has been made in remembrance one of the villagers killed by the tiger in the forest and also an appeal to the tiger” Ramfal, the jeep guide at Waghoba Eco Lodge of Pugdundee Safaris, enlightens me. ‘The entire region was once upon a time ruled by the Gond tribe. There is a temple inside the core forest near Tadoba lake for tribal chief Taru” he adds. Ramfal belongs to the Gond tribal community who have been co-existing with the wildlife since centuries and he has so much to tell. Like many others from the tribe, Ramfal’s family were also forest foragers and agriculturists. With the forest becoming a reserve, some of the tribals were relocated and lost the land. Few of them picked up jobs as guides, drivers and housekeeping staff at the growing number of hotels and wildlife resorts.

Manav Khanduja, co-founder of Pugdundee Safaris says, “The people of Gond tribe have generational knowledge of the forest. They revere and understand it which makes them great guides.”

As Ramfal steers the jeep past a boulder expecting a resting leopard he shares a local legend, “Taru was the village chief who fought with a tiger and was killed in the encounter. The villagers built a tiger shrine dedicated to Taru, their saviour, their God.”

Though the villagers in the core area were moved out when the Tadoba and Andhari forest reserves were merged in 1995, however a yearly fair in December- January, continues to draw tribals from nearby villages to the shrine of Tadoba. One of the oldest, largest and the most famous of the 51 tiger reserves in India, REVERE THE APEX PREDATOR OF THE FOREST

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, located in the Chandrapur district of Maharashtra, in fact derives its name from the legendary hero of the Gond tribals ‘Taru-baba’. its bark, ‘Kullu’, Gond name for Ghost tree; gond katira is made from resin of this tree. It cools the body in summers, he informs. by human presence. The sight of the enormous animal validates why the Gond tribe revere the apex predator of the forest. As most tourists disperse soon after the sighting, we linger in the forest with Shaheen and Narendra interpreting the sounds and sights of the forest. We see a herd of Indian Gaur, a family of langurs and Indian Pitta or Navranga in Gondi, the most elusive bird with nine colours in its plumage, hopping in the mud which the guide tells me is believed to be a sign of good fortune. The Gond way of life is however not limited to tiger shrines. The forest is enmeshed in Gond culture, rituals and philosophy towards life. The most interesting tribal system is the ‘anti-clock’ for keeping time which mirrors the planetary movement around sun and the natural pattern of anticlockwise growth of climbing plants. The forest reflects in their ‘Gond art’ which depicts the interdependence of trees, birds, deer, gaur, tigers and leopards.

 A dry deciduous forest, Tadoba reserve has abundance of bamboo, teak, tendu and mahua trees. The guide points out to pale tree that seems to have been stripped out of its bark, ‘Kullu’, Gond name for Ghost tree; gond katira is made from resin of this tree. It cools the body in summers, he informs. ‘Do you want to see only tiger and leopard?’ he asks suddenly. Pleased at my willingness to see the forest beyond the cats, Shaheen, the naturalist, accompanying me on the safari and Ramfal, show me rare sights that most tiger chasing tourists miss. A monitor lizard standing on its hind legs sniffing the air for danger, a serpent eagle sweeping down to hunt a small banded-racer snake, a foraging sloth bear, dancing peacock. When a barking deer makes alarm calls, they listen intently and drive towards a watering hole nearby. At the watering hole, patience pays, a massive male tiger chhota dadhiyal, saunters towards the water, unperturbed 34 EXOTICA.DAILYPIONEER.COM | SEPTEMBER 2026 by human presence. The sight of the enormous animal validates why the Gond tribe revere the apex predator of the forest. As most tourists disperse soon after the sighting, we linger in the forest with Shaheen and Narendra interpreting the sounds and sights of the forest. We see a herd of Indian Gaur, a family of langurs and Indian Pitta or Navranga in Gondi, the most elusive bird with nine colours in its plumage, hopping in the mud which the guide tells me is believed to be a sign of good fortune. These guardians of the forest, worship the rivers, trees, birds, animals and believe in taking from the forest only as much as is required. As a Gondi proverb goes: ‘Mara dantom, jeevmantom’, that means ‘where there are trees, life breathes’.

Geely Ignites Volvo’s Electric Future

Kushan Mitra drives Volvo's new flagship SUV on the highways around Sawai Madhopur and finds one of the most complete luxury EVs about to land in India

When Volvo lets you loose with its new flagship electric SUV on the wide-open highways around Sawai Madhopur in Rajasthan, the first thing you notice isn't the minimalist dashboard or the Scandinavian air of restraint Volvo built its reputation on. It's how quickly this ‘frankly huge’ three-row SUV disappears underneath you, and how much of its character feels borrowed from somewhere else entirely — Shanghai, not Gothenburg.

That isn't a criticism. It might be the best thing about the car.

A CHINESE CAR WEARING A SWEDISH BADGE

The EX90 succeeds the much-loved XC90 and, on the surface, retains Volvo's familiar Scandinavian minimalism. But spend ten minutes inside and the influence of Geely — which has owned Volvo Cars since 2010 and shares platforms and major components with it; becomes obvious. A massive 14-inch central touchscreen dominates the dashboard, paired with a comically small digital instrument cluster tucked behind the wheel, exactly the layout favoured by China's newest crop of premium electric brands.

The headlights carry 1.3 million pixels apiece and can individually dim their beam to avoid dazzling up to five oncoming vehicles at once, the kind of showy, camera-and- radar-heavy tech that has become a Chinese automotive calling card.

Volvo still designs in Gothenburg and builds the EX90 in Torslanda, and it still answers to its own board, but there's no denying that China is quietly setting the design and technology agenda for what a premium electric car should look and feel like in 2026, and the EX90 wears that influence proudly.

NUMBERS THAT ACTUALLY MATTER ON INDIAN ROADS

Strip away the philosophy and the EX90 is a genuinely quick, genuinely long-legged electric SUV. The India-spec car, badged ‘Twin Motor’ and expected to arrive here as a single, fully-loaded ‘T5 Twin Motor Ultra’ trim pairs two motors on the front and rear axles for a combined 456 hp (335 kW) of power and 670 Newton Meters of torque, good for a claimed 0-100 kmph sprint in 5.5 seconds. Although Volvo India will cap top-speed to just 180 kilometers per hour not just in order to save range but also as a safety metric. Plus with a top legal speed limit on just a few Expressways topping out at 120 kph, 180 is more than enough.

The bigger story is range. Volvo claims 625 km on the WLTP cycle and 724 km under India's own ICAT test protocol, though a realistic figure closer to 500 km is what most owners should expect day to day, comfortably enough for a Delhi to Agra/Chandigarh/Jaipur round trip without needing to hunt for a charger.

That comes courtesy of a 106 kWh CATL lithium-ion battery pack riding on an 800V electrical architecture, which Volvo says can add 10-80 percent charge in as little as 22 minutes on a 350 kilowatt DC fast charger, though such chargers remain vanishingly rare in India today. There are however quite a few 180 kW chargers being established on Indian highways right now and the number is increasing day after day, so a Kashmir to Kanyakumari trip on the EX90 is not a pipe dream.

On the road, the acceleration is genuinely physics-defying for something this large. This is a car that reaches triple- digit speeds without the driver quite registering it, thanks to a cabin so well insulated that wind and road noise barely intrude even at speed.

Despite a hefty 2,725 kg kerb weight, over 600 kg (that is the weight of a family) more than the outgoing petrol XC90's roughly 2,080 kg, the dual-chamber air suspension and an ‘active chassis’ that recalibrates itself over 500 times a second do a convincing job of disguising both the bulk and the height.

In its Soft setting, the suspension glides over small and medium potholes with the sort of composure Indian roads demand, though bigger craters still thump through. That said, avoid the ‘Firm’ mode until you are on a well- surfaced Himalayan road, because you will feel even the smallest pebble. A one-pedal-drive mode and four levels of regenerative braking, including an Auto setting that reads traffic through the car's ADAS sensors, make bumper-to- bumper driving genuinely relaxing rather than a chore

THE ONE THING VOLVO GOT WRONG

Here's the curious part. For all its Chinese-flavoured hardware, the EX90 hasn't borrowed the one Chinese idea that would have made it a genuinely great Indian luxury car: an obsession with the rear seat. Brands like Geely's own Zeekr and Lynk & Co have built their premium reputations around pampering rear-seat passengers, yet the EX90 remains stubbornly driver-focused, lavishing its most indulgent touch, front massage seats — on the person behind the wheel rather than the person being driven.

Maybe, this is a nod to the fact that this car is ostensibly designed and engineered in Europe. But, in a segment where Indian buyers routinely have someone else doing the driving, that's a genuine miss, and a slightly sharper focus on rear comfort is really all that stands between this car and being close to perfect for our market.

PRICE AND VERDICT

Volvo India is expected to launch the EX90 on October 12, 2026, alongside the ES90 sedan, arriving as a completely built-up import. Pricing should start at roughly INR 1.5 crore ex-showroom, comfortably into BMW Ix and Mercedes-Benz EQS SUV territory, with on-road prices for fully loaded units nudging past INR 1.8 crore depending on the state. That is a formidable sum of money, but the EX90 largely justifies it: it's blisteringly quick, quiet enough to make you forget it's moving, rides well enough for Indian roads on the right suspension setting, and carries enough real-world range to make long-distance electric travel feel unremarkable rather than anxious. Volvo has essentially built a very good Chinese premium EV and put a Swedish badge on it — and, love or hate what that says about the state of the global car industry, the result is one of the most complete flagship electric SUVs about to land in India.

Life Through an X-Ray

Through striking X-rayimagery, X Marks Life explores the hidden stories Through X-ray imagery, the exhibition explores the hidden memories, emotions and stories that everyday objects gather through time, culture and travel, finds Abhi Singhal

What lies beneath the surface of the objects around us? For visual artist and filmmaker Tushar Waghela, that question opens a world of memory, emotion, faith and human connection. His exhibition X Marks Life uses X-ray imagery to look beyond the visible, turning everyday tools and toys into reflections of the lives we attach to them.

LOOKING WITHIN

An axe reveals the texture of a spine and hands. A loudspeaker carries traces of ribs. A painter’s brush appears to hold the suggestion of a palm. Through digital interventions, drawings and prints, Waghela creates imagined interiors where the boundaries between the human body and the inanimate blur. “It started with a very simple curiosity, the desire to see what is inside something,” says Waghela. “X-ray is a metaphor for looking beyond what is visible.”

An artwork, ‘The Hammer ’, uses X-ray images and digital graphics to reveal a tool’s imagined inner anatomy. Created between 2009 and 2020 as a 30 x 30-inch print on paper, it turns a familiar object into an extension of the hand, echoing the exhibition’s meditation on labour, touch and identity.

TRAVEL AND VISUAL MEMORY

The exhibition also finds a connection with travel. Waghela believes that moving through different places has shaped how he understands objects and their meanings. Museums, markets, religious sites, architecture and rituals become a part of his visual memory.

The Syndrome and the Society, an X-ray and digital graphic print, extends this idea into the social realm. Tushar says, “Travel has made me realise that our traditions may be different, but the human desire to create meaning, memory, and emotional connections with things is quite universal.”

MORE THAN AN OBJECT

This idea lies at the heart of X Marks Life. A tool can carry the marks of labour. A toy can hold childhood memories. An idol can become sacred through faith and ritual.

Elephant Wheel, a limited-edition print, transforms a mechanical toy through X-ray imagery, exposing its springs and inner construction. It reflects how objects can become vessels of memory, comfort, companionship and emotion. For Waghela, these relationships reveal something universal.

FIT TRAVELLERS' FAVOURITE TRACKERS

Travelling may take you away from your usual fitness routine, but it does not have to mean losing track of your health and activity. Be it a morning run along a new coastline, a demanding trek, a swim, or simply recovering after a long-haul flight, these luxury wearables can help you stay connected to your body's needs. Better still, these devices are designed to go the distance, with long battery life and features that make them useful far beyond the gym. Here are six premium fitness gadgets to pack for your next journey.

GARMIN ENDURO 3

Designed for athletes and adventure travellers, it tracks running, cycling, hiking and more. It’s solar charging and extended battery life support longer adventures.

OURA RING 4

 From daily activity and heart rate to sleep and recovery, this sleek smart ring helps travellers keep an eye on fitness and wellbeing without wearing a conventional watch.

SUUNTO VERTICAL TITANIUM SOLAR CANYON

A strong companion for hikers, runners and outdoor fitness enthusiasts, with sport modes, precise GPS, offline maps and solar- powered battery support.

WHOOP 5.0

This screen-free fitness band connected to an app tracks strain, recovery, sleep and heart rate, while its 14+ day battery keeps you monitored for longer.

COROS VERTIX 2S

Track a wide range of activities, from running and cycling to swimming and outdoor adventures, with 36 days of regular use and up to 118 hours of full GPS. It also offers offline maps.