How India celebrates Diwali

How India celebrates Diwali
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There is no single way to experience Diwali in India. In one city, millions of diyas turn a riverfront into a magical sea of gold; in another, temple bells and classical music accompany the first light of dawn. Across the country, the festival of lights is less a single celebration that illuminates homes and every place with joy and lights. For travellers, this makes Diwali an extraordinary time to discover India. Here’s where you can experience magic.

River of a million lights

Begin in Ayodhya, where the festival is rooted in the story of Lord Rama’s return after 14 years of exile. Ayodhya’s Deepotsav, winning a Guinness World Record, now has evolved into one of India’s most spectacular festival experiences, with the Sarayu ghats and temples illuminated with around 25 lakh+ diyas. The experience is particularly striking at Ram Ki Paidi, where rows of lamps shimmer against the Sarayu after sunset. Ayodhya Deepotsav is scheduled for November 6, 2026.

From Ayodhya, follow the Ganga to Varanasi. Here, Diwali is only the beginning. Around a fortnight later, the city prepares for Dev Deepawali that is celebrated on the full moon of Kartik. Scheduled for November 24 and 25, 2026, the ghats of Kashi glow with countless diyas as the sacred river becomes the enterpiece of an evening of prayer, devotion and illumination. For a traveller, the magic lies in watching the city transform after dusk when boats drift along the Ganga and its illuminated ghats.

The night of devotion

Travel east and the mood changes completely. In Kolkata and across West Bengal, the new-moon night belongs not only to Diwali but to Kali Puja. Instead of the gentle imagery associated with Lakshmi worship elsewhere, the festival centres on Goddess Kali, with elaborately decorated idols, midnight prayers, flowers, offerings and illuminated neighbourhoods. The rituals continue deep into the night, giving Kolkata’s celebration a distinctive intensity and theatricality. Kali Puja falls on November 8 in 2026.

In Amritsar, Diwali coincides with Bandi Chhor Divas, commemorating the release of Guru Hargobind Sahib and 52 captive kings. The Golden Temple and the surrounding city take on a luminous atmosphere, with prayers and kirtan forming the heart of the observance.

A royal celebration

In Rajasthan, Diwali is regal. Jaipur’s markets sparkle with decorative lights, traditional crafts and festive displays, while palaces and heritage properties provide an atmospheric backdrop to the season.

Further west, Maharashtra gives Diwali its own rhythm. The celebrations unfold over five days, from Dhanteras and Narak Chaturdashi to Lakshmi Pujan, Balipratipada or Padwa and Bhau Beej.

Preprations before the sun rise

Then there is the south, where Diwali often begins at dawn. Traditions associated with Naraka Chaturdashi recall Lord Krishna’s victory over the demon Narakasura. Oil baths, new clothes, sweets and early-morning prayers form part of the celebrations, followed by family gatherings and fireworks.

Perhaps that is what makes travelling through India during Diwali so rewarding. The diya may be the common thread, but the stories surrounding it are remarkably different carrying history over centuries.