When the 'Queen of Hills' was the 'Resort of Kings'

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Summer is here and many visitors can already be seen  arriving in this hill station. And the best place to see how many of them are here is The Mall Road, the lifeline of the town. Tourists as well as locals meet on The Mall and exchange news over a cup of tea or coffee at its innumerable cafeterias.  It is now once again time for crowds to gather on The Mall and spend the long summer ahead.

The Mall of Mussoorie  is the only road in India which has experienced footfalls of people like Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, G.M.Modi, Vinoba Bhave, Madan Mohan Malaviya, GD Birla  V.Shantaram, Dilip Kumar.The list of VIPs and celebrities who have walked on this road is long.  

Driving up the thirty kilometres from the Doon Valley to Mussoorie, the traveller comes upon  a point with a fork in the road a few miles before the end of the journey. He can either carry on straight or take a wide loop to the left. If he carries on straight he will end up at the Picture Palace end of Mussoorie. But if the visitor  decides that one more swinging loop to the left can really do no harm, he will end up at library Point, which no old timer will ever call by its other name- Gandhi Chowk. This is the point from where the road branches off towards the lal Bahadur Shastri Academy of National Adminstration (lBSNAA), Kempty Falls, Happy Valley and Clouds’ End.

If one  reaches  the Picture Palace end , one can  walk the two kilometre stretch to library Point, down the twisting and turning  historic two kilometer stretch known as the Mall Road, a name evocative of restaurants and cafes, souvenir shops, cinema halls, honeymooning couples, children on horseback. Almost every hill station built by the British has a Mall-and even some other cities, including Delhi and Amritsar- but the Mall in Mussoorie is special. For the simple reason that it is the oldest, hitting 180  years now.

In these long years it has seen a lot, from a time when it was open only to British gentry for their evening walks and their summer  dalliances to the present day when every Indian tourist willing to make the journey is welcome to its sounds, scents and scenes. It is in fact a mirror of Mussoorie in which one can see all aspects of its present day existence and then, if one looks hard enough in a certain light, even its long dead past. Or not so dead, say some of the old buildings, dating back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries..

On weekends, even in off-season ,the market on Mall Road  is quite bustling with activity. The several small cafeterias and sweet shops begin  preparing for breaksfast time .Weekend  tourists from Dehra Dun, the odd honeymoon couple and some foreigners can always be seen on the Mall, all the year round.      

Walking forward on the historic boulevard, one comes across many shops old and new, selling branded woolens which are in great demand by the foreign tourists, Tibetan artifacts, pastries, shoes, artificial jewellery and DVDs.The cinema halls including Rialto,Majestic and Vasu have closed down, changing the landscape of the road to a great extent.The old red, Clarke’s building, built in 1920, stands as good as new around the middle point of the Mall Road. Near this is the famous Chic Chocolate bakery which has catered to the locals and tourists for the past many decades..From here , one moves towards what is known as the “Kwality” corner of the Mall. The two-storeyed Kwality restaurant was replaced a few years ago by Café Coffee Day.

Yet  downwards is the “Jhoolaghar” ,the place from where the trolleys (cable cars) leave for the Gun Hill. The trolley station is surrounded by several shops. Finally, one heads towards the library end of the Mall. The old Hakman’s Hotel ,which was a hub of social activity in the 1960s and 70s, wore a  quiet look for long . It is now being  renovated and restored.

 Just a little bit away is the library Point  where the old  Mussoorie Public library,  built in 1843 stands,housed in an attractive green building. Here ends one’s journey down the stately Mall.

Without The Mall, Mussoorie would never be the town it is. 

Daily Pioneer
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