The jewel in Mussoorie's crown: St. Paul's Church

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In October 1859, a couple got married at a beautiful church located in landour, the original Mussoorie. The groom was Christopher and the bride was Mary. And the church was

St. Paul’s that stands as statuesquely as it did 155 long years ago.

Christopher and Mary Corbett later became parents of Jim Corbett after whom the famous National Park was named. Christopher served as a Post Master in Mussoorie and later in Nainital where Jim was born.

However, the story is not simple as it seems. Christopher William married Mary Anne Morrow of landour in 1845 and had three children. Mary Anne died when the children were still young. At that time, Christopher was an apothecary in Mussoorie. Near the Corbetts’ home lived a widow, Mary Jane Doyle, with her three children. Christopher and Mary became sympathetic to each other. They got married on October 13, 1859. While Mary Jane looked after the six children from the mixed family and Christopher joined the Post and Telegraph department. They spent two more years in Mussoorie and Mathura. In 1862, Christopher was transferred to Nainital. Edward James Corbett or Jim Corbett as he is known the world over, was born in Nainital on July 25, 1875. Thus, both the popular hill stations of Uttarakhand played an important role in the life of the Corbett family.

One of Mussoorie's most historic churches, St. Paul's, underwent a major renovation some years ago thanks to a donation by Woodstock alumnus Sanjay Narang. The rededication of the church was celebrated by hundreds of Mussoorie residents, including many Woodstockers. St. Paul's Church was built in 1839 and first consecrated on 1 May 1840, by Bishop Daniel Wilson of Calcutta. From 1840 to 1947, the church was run by military chaplains and was the premier church for the cantonment being used primarily by the British residents of landour associated with the area and the British Military Hospital during the British Raj.

It was also in this church that actor Tom Alter was married to Carol in the year 1977.

According to famous author Ganesh Saili, the church is of great historic importance as it was premiere church for the British Cantonment during the British Raj. This fact is corroborated with the evidence of clamps for the rifles in the Hall. 

During the restoration, the carving work on the stained glass windows was done to perfection and the heritage look was maintained in the process. The Church remains open daily from 10 am to 4 pm for the tourists and residents alike

Moving up the Mullingar slope, the ascent to landour begins—shops on the right and houses (like Annandale, Eglantine and such) on the left, until one turns sharp to the east again under Trim lodge. From here the different roads branch off; one to the left, going up past the old rickshaw stand. This is the shortest but steepest road up to the church; the one to the right, going away on a much easier gradient leads on to Nag Tibba. From above here also branches off the Edge Hill road and the main road to Tehri, passing under Woodstock School, and on out past Jabbarkhet.

Arriving at St Paul’s Church, one is near the middle of landour. southward and below lie a cluster of houses and three or four barracks; some more private houses, the Roman Catholic Chapel of St Peter’s, the two cemeteries and Childers Castle, lodge and Cottages beyond the Cantonment northern boundary. Eastward lies lal Tibba, more barracks, more private houses, and, towards the eastern boundary, the Institute of Technology Management.

The large open flat near St Paul’s Church has a small park, flanked by the famous ‘Char Dukaan’, literally meaning four shops. Whether it is a cloudy October morning like today or a cool June evening, a rain-laden day in July or a pleasant March afternoon, the area near  St. Paul’s is easily the most beautiful place to be at when one is in Mussoorie. At a height of 7,750 feet, this also remains the most secluded and beautiful area of the town, with spectacular views of the snow- clad Himalayas, dense deodar forests and peaceful slopes. landour is a fabulous place to visit. It is the crown of Mussoorie and St. Paul’s Church is its shining jewel. 

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