It is indeed good news that the Government of India has decided to observe August 7 as National Handloom Day beginning from this year. The Prime Minister, while he still had not become the Prime Minister, had made a commitment to the weaving community/weavers of Benares that not only they but also their handloom products and products from elsewhere would find their way onto the national as well as global
map. So the present declaration will no doubt go a long way in achieving the desired objective. Now weavers from Odisha to Karnataka to Uttar Pradesh to Nagaland will draw global attention.
The Union Ministry of Textiles has issued guidelines to observe this day in a befitting manner. Programmes will be organized in areas of the State where there is concentration of handloom weavers. Then, of course, there will be a State level programme where handloom weavers will gather and deliberate on various dimensions of handloom sector: weaving, raw material design, promotion, welfare of weavers, innovation, in the sector etc. As a mark of recognition, national and State level awardees in the sector are to be felicitated. There will also be intense activities throughout the day with handloom workshops, exhibitions etc wherein the weavers will be encouraged to come up with new ideas and products. In what could be termed as a moral boosting gesture, the Government of India has appealed to all Government employees, school, college students and others to wear handloom fabric to mark the occasion.
Though the handloom sector has picked up of late, the plight of weavers in many parts of in the country always made news. This initiative by Central Government will not only inspire the weavers and all those associated with the sector, but also encourage the common man to participate in activities related to promotion, propagation and spread of handloom culture in India.
Handloom sector, next to agriculture, provides massive employments to the rural weavers. So far as our State is concerned, it has a rich tradition of great handloom products. Even the skill and knowledge imbibed over generations has given hand woven cloths of Odisha an unparalleled depth, range, versatility, strength and vigor. Handloom cloth is one of the richest and resilient mediums of ethnic expressions. Odisha has already carved a prominent place in the handloom map of the country. The unique traditional products of Odishan handloom depict the rich cultural heritage of the State and the excellent craftsmanship of the weavers.
According to 2009-10 census, the State had 40,683 weaver families where as 1, 92,000 weavers were engaged in weaving and related activities. There are 534 registered primary co-operative societies and 43,652 looms are in functional state. Annual business to the tune of Rs 200 crore is achieved under the co-operative fold. The apex organisations viz Boyanika, Serifed and Sambalpuri Bastralaya play a significant role in procurement, production and marketing of the products. To bring improvement in the socio-economic condition of the weavers and promotion of handloom sector, various developmental and welfare schemes are implemented through both Central and State Government. Besides weavers are being provided with work-shed, skill up-gradation training, cluster development programme, marketing of products, yarn subsidy, solar lantern and utility kits etc.
Despite support and assistance from the Government, the handloom sector faces stiff competition from the modern textile and apparel industry. The products from the power loom are cheaper in comparison to handloom cloths, so is preferred by the buyers. Besides, new designs and stylized products are launched in global market every day. There are reasons why millions of weavers across the country stare at a dark future. Many are forced to give up this traditional profession and switch over to other areas of livelihood. To protect the weavers from competition in various fields, products are being registered under Geographical Indications Act, 1999 and clause 2002.
Odisha has come up as an emerging State in filling geographical indication applications in the GI Registry in Chennai. Kotpad handloom fabrics of Koraput, Odisha Ikat, Khandua saree and fabrics, Gopalpur tussar fabric, Dhalapathar parda and fabrics of Khurda, Sambalpur Bandha saree and fabrics, Bomkai saree and fabrics, Habaspuri saree and fabrics of Kalahandi and Bramhapuri Pata saree and Joda of Ganjam are registered under GI Act. This act protects the imitation of the designs of the above products enabling the weavers to produce and market their products exclusively. Recently, Ritu Kumar, the internationally acclaimed eminent fashion designer, was so impressed with the quality, texture and intricacies of Odishan hand-weaving that she directly ordered a bulk amount of handloom products from Nuapatna co-operative society of Athagarh zone. These are all examples of efforts which have been made to give an impetus to the weaving heritage in our State, thereby enhancing the livelihood and skill of those involved in this profession. Another internationally acclaimed Odia designer, the US-based Bibhu Mohapatra has come up with stunning combinations of colour, and design using Odishan handloom.
Since time immemorial Odishan handloom has attracted the attention of art lovers, connoisseurs, fashion designers and eminent personalities of our country. From former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi to some leading actresses, many have displayed great enthusiasm and interest in handloom products of our State. Who can ever forget the elegance of the Odissi dancers clad in the traditional outfits on a stageIJ Above all lord Jagannath, the Supreme lord of the Universe, is also fond of exotic Odishan handloom. His biggest daily ritual Badasinghara Besha is incomplete without offering of the Gitagovinda Khandua. However, only Government assistance is not sufficient for sustaining the livelihood of those engaged in this profession. It is imperative that
more and more people develop keen interest in buying and wearing handloom fabrics in order to preserve this rich heritage. And observing August 7 as National Handloom Day is a pragmatically bold step in this regard
(The writer is Information Officer in Odisha I & PR Department, Mob.No.9437302148)